PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

I bought a socketed ecu and left the stock chip in it as i wasn't yet boosted, but once i did so i got a CEL that came up as 41(primary o2 heater). I'm now boosted and have replaced the old o2 with a new one(bosch unfortunately). I NEED to get rid of this damn CEL and I've left my battery unplugged for a minute or so to reset the ecu, but still can't get rid of the damn light. I used the universal one (its wired correctly) and now im left wondering if A) it's something with the ECU or B) the plug for the o2 is bad?
ANY help is appreciatted....


Modified by PA MATT at 4:26 PM 8/8/2004

PM-Performance

that code doesnt do anything to hinder performance. its not a big deal. if you wanna disable it, put a 20 ohm resistor between the heater power and ground , and it tricks it to think its hooked up .

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

glad to find it does nothing to performance, but the light is still bothering me so I may try the resistor trick

AzG35

Well, actually, if the car uses Closed Loop at all, it will decrease your gas milage significantly. I had the problem recently, and the car ran very rich at partial throttle. My last tank of gas with this code gave me about 200 miles. I average 260-280 miles per tank. If you run in open loop, you shouldn't have to worry about it. I ended up having to replace the ECU because of this problem, there was a short in the heater circuit somewhere and burnt out the circuit.

ntegls

As per service manual dtc p0135 could be caused by an open wire or short in the primary heater circuit, faulty primary o2, or defective ecm

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

would disabling the o2 heater circuit be a good solution? I talked to PHiZ and he said this is possible through uberdata





Modified by PA MATT at 4:40 PM 8/8/2004

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

bump...disabling o2 heater circuit be a good solution or will it cause problems with open/closed loop?

Jared

i dont suggest disabling the heater. fix your wiring issue. disabling the heater will cause the 02 to get too cold for a proper reading at idle, and possibly heavy vacuum conditions. also, you will get worse gas mileage when the engine is cold started while the 02 warms up.

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

i had the problem with the stock o2 sensor once i plugged in the socketed ecu(with stock chip) so i'm not sure if it's in the computer or not

honda9369

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont suggest disabling the heater. fix your wiring issue. disabling the heater will cause the 02 to get too cold for a proper reading at idle, and possibly heavy vacuum conditions. also, you will get worse gas mileage when the engine is cold started while the 02 warms up.</TD></TR></TABLE> i agree. i no u said that u wired it up right but do u have the universal bosch 1 blue,1 white,and 2 black wires. if so how did u hook them up?

0KStuned

Send switched 12v power to that heater wire coming from the O2 and the CEL will go away. For whatever reason, your heater wire on your O2 is not getting switched 12v power, that is why you have the CEL. Guaranteed.

Good luck.

will3ishere

had the same issue what i found was that the o2 sensor had been wired wrong but it cooked the ecu and the intake temp sensor
so i would check my wiring and the intake temp sensor
good luck

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda9369 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i agree. i no u said that u wired it up right but do u have the universal bosch 1 blue,1 white,and 2 black wires. if so how did u hook them up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its the universal bosch and I wired the black from the bosch into the white on the oe plug, the whites on the bosch into the blacks on the oe plug, and the gray on the bosch to the green on the oe plug

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaddict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Send switched 12v power to that heater wire coming from the O2 and the CEL will go away. For whatever reason, your heater wire on your O2 is not getting switched 12v power, that is why you have the CEL. Guaranteed.
Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry for the stupid question, but how do i do that?lol just a constant 12v power?you said "switched 12v power"


Modified by PA MATT at 11:58 PM 8/7/2004

honda9369

[QUOTE=PA MATT]

its the universal bosch and I wired the black from the bosch into the white on the oe plug, the whites on the bosch into the blacks on the oe plug, and the gray on the bosch to the oe plug

my bosch had 1 blue 1white,and 2 black.the correct way to wire on my civic was blue to oem white, white to oem green,and black to black

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

sorry about the humongous picture, but itll make it easier to read the font

honda9369

the pic didnt work

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

pic works for me...hmm
hondaddict-i hooked a piece of wire from my battery to my heater wires and it didnt make the cel go away(im not sure if thats what you wanted me to do)

HybridKOOP

I had PHiZ do me an ECU and it almost burned my car to the ground.

0KStuned

switched 12v power means it will only have power when you turn the key in the "on" position. And you only have one heater wire, the stock Honda color is yel/blk. You can take switched 12v from the driver side wire harness plug, or from an unused terminal on your underhood fusebox, just hook that up to the yel/blk wire at your O2 and you'll be good.

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

i wired it to my battery jsut to see if it would work, no change, so i tried the backup fuse in the fuse box,no change, and finally i tried the harness on the the drivers side shock tower, still no change.

iHave2Cams

take your os sensor out and check all the wires on it, i had a wire on mine that the wire was exposed on it and grounding out on metal on the undercarrage, and it made me throw an eld code as well as a o2 code

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

i dont believe thats my problem, but ill take a look

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont suggest disabling the heater. fix your wiring issue. disabling the heater will cause the 02 to get too cold for a proper reading at idle, and possibly heavy vacuum conditions. also, you will get worse gas mileage when the engine is cold started while the 02 warms up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, yeah, but my beater, 89 DX hatchcrap with OBD1 D15B7, still gets 30 mpg in the mountains of WNC with me running it to redline in every gear (trying to keep up with those Cavaliers, you know) and cruising at 80 mph on the 30 minute commute to and from the shop. With the AC running.

I should wire up the spare 4 wire I have laying around and see the difference myself, you know.

Jared

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, yeah, but my beater, 89 DX hatchcrap with OBD1 D15B7, still gets 30 mpg in the mountains of WNC with me running it to redline in every gear (trying to keep up with those Cavaliers, you know) and cruising at 80 mph on the 30 minute commute to and from the shop. With the AC running.

I should wire up the spare 4 wire I have laying around and see the difference myself, you know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Try it, made a very noticable difference on my obd0 D16A6 in my 89 si.

mekkis

OBD0 behaves a little differently than OBD1, but I can see where there is room for improvement on either OBD0 or OBD1. If you have to swap out sensors anyway, what's a $5 price difference on a generic sensor, and an extra fifteen minutes wiring?