jackhunt321

ok the hardware...T3 garrett w/ internal wastegate, Side mount intercooler, stock internals on motor 98 F23 Vtec accord

The kit is coming with this for fuel magmt:

Walbro fuel pump
440cc RC injectors
Vortech FMU (deciding to use this or the SAFC)
SAFC II

1.) I should definatley add the fuel pump no matter what correct?

2.)Will the 440's flood out the engine with no type of APR or injector controller? I here they will work with the SAFC but not the FMU.

3.)What should I use here, I realize that the SAFC advances timing out the ***. I think my ideal first setup here would be FMU, 440's and fuel pump....is this possible?

4.)Does anyone run SAFC with FMU? Is this beneficial?

THANKS For all your help so far guys!!!!!!!

*And no OBD1 suggestions please...I live in PA where emissions sucks!!!

jackhunt321

Will the car idle and run fine with the following

Vortech FMU, RC 440 cc injectors, and walbro fuel pump?

dornon13

my understanding is that 440s are too big to use with an FMU and if you are using an in-tank fuel pump most people on here would recommend you use an inline fuel pump with the FMU instead

N20civicB18

If you got a SAFC and bigger injectors why would you use a FMU? its not needed

Pullig

Use the SAFC and injectors **** the FMU

portenio78

iTrader: (1)

dont use the fmu with the bigger injectors.

jackhunt321

ahahahahah....this could be a great discussion...PLEASE HELP!!!! Look at the response I am getting! I REALLY DO NEED help fast! Why not use the SAFC with the bigger injectors? And why use an inline pump with the FMU?

jackhunt321

I really would like to run the SAFC with the 440cc RC injectors but,

1.)will the larger injectors flood the engine?
2.)running stock ECU
3.)Will the timing be too far advanced with the setting at -40%

It is a 98 accord with obd2..so timing could be an issue.

nickromeo

u have 2 options here.

fmu

or

afc with injectors.

thats all.

nickromeo

your timing concern is really dependant on how much boost you are going to run.

jackhunt321

so you are sure that the SAFC won't flood my engine and **** up my rings?

2k.civic.si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jackhunt321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you are sure that the SAFC won't flood my engine and **** up my rings?</TD></TR></TABLE>

without a wideband...cant be sure of anything

no2unenolife

i'd use an safc over an fmu

dornon13

this has been covered alot thats why you arent getting incredibily long explanations

jackhunt321

I have read as much as I can about SAFC's. I really would like an explanation on why the safc w/ 440's would be better than the fmu...I realize that there are downsides to both. I am looking for more reliablility here. I am assuming that if I used the SAFC I would run it full crank at -40% through all the RPMS

dornon13

buy a wideband or keep guessing

portenio78

iTrader: (1)

From what I have read the FMU causes very high fuel rail pressure, and well you can not tune it. If you have to just do your injectors and safc, but get it tuned at least.

rkrone

get a fpr, and fuel pressure gauge, this is a must for either case -
if using an fmu, use the stock injectors, this is only for low boost
otherwise, use the large ones with safc for now,
upgrade your ecu or some other fuel management in the near future, much better than safc
in-tank pump is fine, no need for inline pump

Oyvind Ryeng

dornon13

if you get a fuel pressure gauge you better get a stout one your going to see pressures over 100psi most of them only go to 100 psi

CivicMike

Sell all that **** and throw in a chipped OBD1 ECU. (Run ANY size injectors AND you can tune your timing)

dornon13

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jackhunt321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*And no OBD1 suggestions please...I live in PA where emissions sucks!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

try to read man.

although i would say i would rather run obd1 and and maybe run the fmu for smog or whatever you go through than running on FMU or AFC all the time, little bit of a hassle but it could save you alot of money if you screw up your motor due to improper fuel management.. its is not the area you want to skimp on

Dee

FMU + Walbro = bad juju

Walbro can support 600hp but not at astronimcal pressure levels that are produced by FMU's. This is the reason why people use the inline pumps. There is also no need for larger injectors when you are using a low boost setup with an FMU.

FMU + inline pump + normal injectors = ok
FPR + any high capacity pump (Walbro, Bosch, whatever) + correct sized injectors + boost tuneable ECU = better

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

ok, since you really haven't read here it goes anyway.

EITHER WAY YOU ARE GOING TO ADVANCE YOUR IGNITION TIMING.

and here is the reason. The fmu will need to be run with a missing link or check valves to keep the ecu from seeing boost.. hence doing the same damn thing the safc does with timing it jacks it up.

This is what you should do. Run the safc, and lean it out, then get a ignition retard box, and go from there. But I live in PA too, all you have to do is run OBD1 when you don't need to get it inspected it is very easy. All you have to do is swap out the injectors and put in the stock OBD2 ecu to get it inspected. If you don't want to go through that hassle, then your car is going to run on a half assed fuel management system. I understand where you are coming from since I live in Pa as well. But it is really easy to do.

nonvtecD

I live in Pa and have no emissions Seriously, you should have done a lot more research if you're installing it tommorow. You even know how to hook up an SAFC? Get some real fuel management, it can be done, tons of people in PA do it everyday and you can too.