Given that your car's engine is in good mechanical condition, You will have to upgrade your Fuel(Fuel pump, Pressure regulators, injectors) and ignition (MSD 6A, Colder Plugs, wires, etc...) You will have to get a thicker head gasket to do 10 lbs of boost, you shouldnt really go past 8 or 9 lbs with out it. Get your car Dyno Tuned to get the most power and reliablity out of it. It would be a good idea to also get guages, etc.. I posted something before about a good setup for civics let me see if I can find it.

This is a good guideline to follow for a Strong, safe setup.

Heres some info from MatT3T4 about the setup:

MatT3T4 RECOMMENDED TURBO SETUPS

STAGE I: The Daily Driver
~Light buildup, daily driveability/reliability, inexpensive, occasional racer, mostly street legal.
--Civic SOHC; VTEC & non-VTEC

Turbocharger
>GReddy turbo kit
>GReddy intercooler kit: small one
>GReddy Type-S blow off valve

Ignition
>MSD SCI
>MSD Blaster 3 Coil
>MSD Pro Cap
>MSD 8.5mm wires & NGK 7 series plugs

Fuel
>Vortech 8:1 FMU
>RC Engineering 310 injectors
>Holley 255LPH In-tank fuel pump
>B&M Command Flo

Exhaust
>GReddy EVO
>Random Technology Hi-Flow Cat

Bolt-Ons
>AEM cam gear

Tuning
>A'pex V-AFC: for VTEC
>GReddy 2mm Metal Head Gasket
>Missing Link Check Valve
>Blockguard
>ARP head studs

Gauges/Electronics
>GReddy boost gauge
>GReddy air:fuel meter
>GReddy oil pressure gauge
>GReddy turbo timer
>GReddy Profec B boost controller w/ Greddy steering wheel remote

---E.T.A.---
Quarter mile times can drop to as low as low 13's depending on your setup. Good tuning, ample fuel & spark, with race gas, and about 14psi will net you 13's. Safe street driving with this setup well tuned should be around 10psi.

 

ive chewed on it..let me tell you what i think. the stock ignition components are fine , doesnt really count as an "inexpensive set up", ditch the 8:1,blockguard,vafc,thicker head gasket, command flo, go to 440 injectors and hondata 2b w/ intank. wouldnt boost higher than 10 lbs on stock internals or w/ VAFC. and we all kno you should run drag3 instead of the greddy.

 

is the engine in the car it should be in like a 6th gen ex? cause the 13's would be high 13's and you need a clutch too, by the way he is the man (mat3t4)

i have most of that on my d16, this is what i have


Turbocharger
>GReddy turbo kit *
>GReddy intercooler kit: small one *
>GReddy Type-S blow off valve *

Ignition
>MSD SCI
>MSD Blaster 3 Coil
>MSD Pro Cap
>MSD 8.5mm wires & NGK 7 series plugs *

Fuel
>Vortech 8:1 FMU *
>RC Engineering 310 injectors
>Holley 255LPH In-tank fuel pump *
>B&M Command Flo

Exhaust
>GReddy EVO *
>Random Technology Hi-Flow Cat

Bolt-Ons
>AEM cam gear

Tuning
>A'pex V-AFC: for VTEC
>GReddy 2mm Metal Head Gasket
>Missing Link Check Valve *
>Blockguard
>ARP head studs

Gauges/Electronics
>GReddy boost gauge *
>GReddy air:fuel meter *
>GReddy oil pressure gauge
>GReddy turbo timer *
>GReddy Profec B boost controller w/ Greddy steering wheel remote *
whats not * is what i dont have, and i'm runnig 8 and just bought a b18c1 so maybe i made a mistake doing that? oh well



[Modified by beastyboy81, 6:21 AM 2/4/2002]

 

What he said.

 

MSD SCI bleh, a 6al is a better suite

you dont need a cap, converter, or wires, honda makes excellent ignition systems for a good amount of FI

b&M command flo isnt a true 1:1 regulator.

RC 310s would be a waste, get some prelude injectors for 1/3 the cost, and those are 320s stock.

I dont like Vafcs, spend the extra $150-200 and get a 2b Hondata.

The only CORRECT way to install a block guard is to hone the block and have it welded in place. Simply "tapping" in a block guard will have a tendacy to lean to 1 or 4 cylinder and put more stress on it, and can eventually crack it.

GReddy air/fuel isnt as important as a GReddy EGT, and costs less.

 

beastynuts - i got MatT3T4 turbo setup and added some things that other ppl said was needed.

turbo01gsr - if i do get the 440s and Hondata 2b what will that replace on this list. If it will replace a bunch of stuff then i might just go that route.

Drag 3 cost too much and ppl say the lag is bad....plus everyone says their kit is complete but it isnt for the most part......they leave out stuff that isnt totally necessary but would help alot...then they sell those on the side for an added price....but u r right they do have better top end than Greddy.

Maybe yall know a better setup with the Drag3 than with the Greddy

 

you will need a resistor box, $30 from a salvage yard, they are plug and play though.

 

MSD 6al bleh, get MSDs Digital-6,draws less current,produces hotter spark and multi sparks 300 rpm higher than old 6al

 

true, but remeber, this is a "budget" kit

 

if you decide to go with the hondata, (much more reliable, more precise tuning,cost efficient when it prevents future mishaps) you can ditch the 8:1 fpr, VAFC,head gasket, blockguard,etc. also since you are on a budget i would say ditch the ignition components they arent really necessary, the stock ones are fine (besides plugs). you say the drag 3 comes incomplete yet didnt you notice the greddy kit doesnt even come w/ an intercooler? smaller turbo? shXtty blue box(wannabe hondata) ?? not trying to flame or anything, but cmon. we all know where the true power gains are at, and if you can get the drag3 for a better price, why not? (bens group buy, i wish i had waited till now to turbo that deal is sweet )...i would get boost and air fuel gauges for the time being along w/ a drag 3, hondata 2b, rc 440s, and a holley 255 intank...and youll be more than happy..

 

so drag 3 turbo setup:
Hondata 2b
rc 440s
holley in tank 255lph
boost and A/F gauges
NGK 7 series plugs


r u sure i dont need the MSD stuff?
dont i have to get someone to tune the hondata?
what about a turbo timer, boost controller, cam gear ???

 

objections or comments??

 

dont forget EGT gauge and hondater!

 

so drag 3 turbo setup:
Hondata 2b
Hondater??????
rc 440s
holley in tank 255lph
boost , egt, A/F gauges
NGK 7 series plugs

 

You could upgrade your ignition components, but if you are only looking at 10psi you don't need them. If you want 12 or more, upgrade your ignition. As far as timing, you could retard it 1 or 2 degrees at first to be really safe, then advance it back to normal if you feel comfortable later on. Cam gears are always a nice thing to have with turbo.
Turbo timers are a great thing to have if you don't want to wait in your car for a few minutes for the oil to recycle(I have my timer set for 3 minutes but that might be excessive for every day driving).
You should also upgrade the WG in the Drag to a Tial, the Deltagate has been known for boost spike on occasion.

As far as boost controllers, you will need one if you want to exceed 7.5psi(stock Tial spring). Here are some popular controllers:
Greddy Profec B - great for basic boost control. Reliable and easy to use.
Apexi AVC-R: more advanced the the Greddy. Allows you to control all aspects of boost(rpm specific ).
Blitz SBC-iD: also more advanced than Greddy with many features comparable to the AVC-R. Also displays boost pressure in psi, unlike AVC-R.

BTW, ditch the A/F guage if you are getting the EGT guage.


[Modified by maxim, 7:32 AM 2/7/2002]

 

DRAG 3 + Hondata will make you smile so hard your face will hurt...

 

Words of wisdom!! A GReddy EGT would be top choice BTW

 

Changed setup how about this??

Turbocharger (Alamo Autosports)
>GReddy turbo kit - 1496 (alamo)
>GReddy intercooler kit: small one - 599 (alamo)
>GReddy Type-S blow off valve - 189 (alamo)

Ignition (MSD = summit)
>MSD 6A 173.95 (maybe not)
>MSD Blaster SS Coil (maybe not)
>MSD Pro Cap 64.95 (maybe not)
>MSD 8.5mm wires & NGK 7-series plugs

Fuel
Hondata 2b, RC 440s, Vortech 1:1 FPR, Holley in tank 255lph fuel pump

Exhaust
>Apex 3” DP
>3” cat or maybe no cat, custom 3” exhaust

Bolt-Ons
>AEM cam gear 89 (maybe not)

Tuning
>GReddy 2mm Metal Head Gasket (maybe not)

Gauges/Electronics
>GReddy boost gauge
>GReddy air:fuel meter
>Greddy EGT gauge(?)
>GReddy turbo timer
>GReddy Profec B boost controller(maybe a cheaper one)



[Modified by maxpsi, 7:12 PM 2/7/2002]

 

is it worth it

 

Sounds great, just a few things that might save you some money:
1)Once again, you don't need the A/F gauge if you have the EGT gauge.
2)the spark plug wires are for shows and have been known to slip off the distributor.
3)Honda ignitions are wonderful, you may not need to upgrade that until later on.
4)definately get the Greddy Profec B, for the money its the best.

 

1) i dont understand that about the gauges
2)the MSD wires?
3)like when i go beyond 10psi?
4)so Profec B, not a cheaper solution?

 

1. The EGT is a FAR better indicator of how you're running vs. the A/F gauge
2. Aftermarket wires tend to pop off the plug hole on the cover
3. Correct
4. For the money, it tough to beat a Profec B. If you wanna spend more, AVC-R all the way!

 

1)EGT is basically a temperature gauge(Lean=Hot, Rich=Cold) for ALL rpm ranges, the A/F gauge only works at WOT. Why spend the money when the EGT covers high rpm already.
2)all aftermarket wires have problems, believe it or not stock Honda wires are the best.
3)Generally, don't worry about ignition upgrades until 12+, at which time you will have tuned your fuel correctly with the Hondata.
4)HKS also makes one for a little cheaper, but why not a little more for a basic EBC device that is arguably the best in its category. You could go for a manual boost controller, but you will probably want to upgrade to an EBC soon after installing it.

 

ok

 

this was really really helpful. ive been waiting for a thread that posted something about y8 setups.