OK I have a noobie question .I'm still kinda of questionable on catch cans. I have searched on catch cans the past 2 days. There is alot of threads and good info. What are the best catch cans to run? What are the advantages of hooking a catch can up to the valve cover rather then installing on the back of the block. Where is the best place to weld in fittings on the valve cover. If anyone knows any links post them up or pic.. thanks

 

not my setup but mine looks identical. You want a filter on top of the can also. I can't tell from this guys pics if there is a filter or not.

I also have 1 port off the back of the block to another catch can.





Modified by mike1114 at 2:04 PM 10/28/2005

 

You have the one on the back of the block hooked up like normal or a different way since you have a setup on the valve cover.

 

Good thread, I was going to run dual ports out the front but am going to go with the style pictured.

&


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G"UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have the one on the back of the block hooked up like normal or a different way since you have a setup on the valve cover?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

 

I dont get why so many people have such fucked catch can setups

Your catch can should have 2 ports with a filter or drilled/vented hole on the top

Run the line exiting your valve cover to one inlet on the catch can
Run the second straight off of the black pvc box to the other inlet port of the pvc

Now because your catch can is vented, both valve cover and crankcase are being vented

Obviously is your catch can is sealed this wont work because youll be pressuring both I suppose

Thats how I have it run on my d-series, dont see why anyone would do it any other way

 

anymore?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont get why so many people have such fucked catch can setups</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is more then one way to do it, and I think that's where part of the confusion comes from. Some people run one line for the VC, others run two. Some people also run one for the block, others will run two. Some people connect the VC and block lines, other people leave then seperate. Then there is the option to have vacuum assisted catch cans via exhaust slash cut with the top sealed and no filter, and other people just have the filter vented to atmosphere with no slashcut. There is also the drain back that goes back into the block, but other people choose to manually drain the catch cans into a pan. I was confused at first until I read through dashers thread and found out what the main differences were between the setups.

Here is how I plan on running my setup:

VALVE COVER
-Moroso catch can with 1 inlet hooked up to driver side front of valve cover
-stock valve cover nipple either capped and sealed off, or I will Tee it in to the line above
-catch can will not be connected to block catch can
-valve cover catch can will be vented to atmosphere and have a filter on top
-valve cover catch can will be drained manually

EDIT after seeing the pic posted by mike1114, I might try to drill and tap the back of the valve cover at the center and Tee it into the front line and into my Moroso catch can.

ENGINE BLOCK
-Endyn modified Moroso catch can with 2 inlets hooked up to two fittings on back of block
-stock PVC black box removed, PVC connections to IM capped off
-catch can will not be connected to valve cover catch can
-engine block catch can will be vented to atmosphere and will have filter on top
-engine block catch can will be drained manually





Modified by BlueShadow at 2:10 AM 10/28/2005

 

If you look closely that can has a couple holes in it for a filter.

Not the best method but there is a filter.

 

So where is the best place to put fittings on the valve cover? Does it matter?

 

In the pic I posted, on the front of the valve cover, there is a baffle inside so the front of the valvecover is the most ideal place.

But, no much oil is really sloshing around in there, if you decide to put it somewhere else on the valvecover no problem.

Like for me, I have a full race ramhorn manifold, I could not put one of the fittings on the front and still clear the mani AND close my hood.

So again, I think the way it is in the pic is the best way. I've done a lot of research on this subject. If you've ever read the infamous "dasher" catch can thread, he and I have chatted extensively aside from that thread as well......

 

Butt when you do it like the one in picture can you close the one on the back?Or is it better to use there also a catch can??

 

i ran the endyn setup last year with the valve cover port with just a filter on it. For the coming year and the new engine, I plan to leave the Endyn setup on the engine with it draining back into the block, as the stock catch can system does this as well, so really its no different, just better ports. If you disconnected the stock PCV valve and just put a filter on it, boom you have the basic endyn catch can.

I do plan to add a valvecover catch can, i'd like to run one port off the factory vent spot (just remove stock port and weld on a AN fitting). then tap the front of the valve cover by the baffle and run both lines to a catchcan. Again going open atmosphere. My only current delima is to either leave valvecover open atmosphere or to run is into a slash cut off my dumptube, so it could vent only when above 14psi of boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Here is how I plan on running my setup:

VALVE COVER
-Moroso catch can with 1 inlet hooked up to driver side front of valve cover
-stock valve cover nipple either capped and sealed off, or I will Tee it in to the line above
-catch can will not be connected to block catch can
-valve cover catch can will be vented to atmosphere and have a filter on top
-valve cover catch can will be drained manually

EDIT after seeing the pic posted by mike1114, I might try to drill and tap the back of the valve cover at the center and Tee it into the front line and into my Moroso catch can.

ENGINE BLOCK
-Endyn modified Moroso catch can with 2 inlets hooked up to two fittings on back of block
-stock PVC black box removed, PVC connections to IM capped off
-catch can will not be connected to valve cover catch can
-engine block catch can will be vented to atmosphere and will have filter on top
-engine block catch can will be drained manually

Modified by BlueShadow at 2:10 AM 10/28/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you tee together the two drainbacks and make one hole in the oil pan? or do you have 2 different holes for the catch can drains? also, what are the disadvantages of not having a drainback?

 

you don't run a line to the oil pan, you have two lines coming off the block, on the line closes to the block, you T into that line and run a line form the oil drain off the catch can so it drains back into the block.

if you don't have it drain into the block, you will be emptying this ever 50-100 miles from the stuff i've seen. and what you will drain will be pure oil. the stock setup drains back into the block.

if you run a line from stock catch can to a aftermarket can to an vacuum source, you won't get much oil as most oil drains back and you end up with all the extra slush. it would be similar to running a can off the endyn catch can.

 

is it necessary to weld fitting into valve cover? can it be done without welding? if so what would i use to make sure it seals.

 

QUOTE=seen4ever]If you disconnected the stock PCV valve and just put a filter on it, boom you have the basic endyn catch can.QUOTE]

so having a breather on the valve cover is the same as a basic catch can?...im looking into this because my car has been smoking white recently, can this be the cause of it(stock pcv system)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it necessary to weld fitting into valve cover? can it be done without welding? if so what would i use to make sure it seals.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You could probably use a bulkhead type fitting. But you'd have to check and make sure the valvetrain wont hit the inner part of your bulkhead fitting. To see what type of setup you would need for this click the link below. One of the oilpan setups has a picture of a bulkhead fitting. All you'd have to do is do the same thing to your valve cover.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1312904

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmGSR916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">QUOTE=seen4ever]If you disconnected the stock PCV valve and just put a filter on it, boom you have the basic endyn catch can.QUOTE]

so having a breather on the valve cover is the same as a basic catch can?...im looking into this because my car has been smoking white recently, can this be the cause of it(stock pcv system)</TD></TR></TABLE>

theres more to it that just a breather, myself i don't run a breather, in your case its probably too late if you see white smoke out the valve cover, and filter isn't helping it, its restricting the ventilation from valve cover. on turdblow i run no filter on valve cover

my current setup is valve cover fitting w/ no filter, stock pcv valve -&gt; catch can -&gt; t fitting that splits into check valve (this one vents when i'm at WOT) --&gt; another check valve --&gt; intake manifold (when in boost, this check valve blocks pressure from going into engine)... i'd like to add additional valve cover fitting for more ventilation

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You could probably use a bulkhead type fitting. But you'd have to check and make sure the valvetrain wont hit the inner part of your bulkhead fitting. To see what type of setup you would need for this click the link below. One of the oilpan setups has a picture of a bulkhead fitting. All you'd have to do is do the same thing to your valve cover.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1312904</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn.. thats a great and informative thread!! thanks..

 

What size lines should you use on the valve cover? -10an? Some of you guys are still running the pcv valve with the catch can setup?

 

vtec.dc2,

I'm glad you like the thread. I made it after I finally figured out what all the different terms meant (NPT, AN, banjo). I figured pictures would help out a lot to explain it all.

G"UNIT,

-10 AN is the size that a lot of people are using for their lines and fittings. Some of the Moroso catch cans (like mine) have -12 AN male ports on the cans though. I had to get a -12 AN to -10 reducer before I could run a -10 AN line. I didn't wnana run -12 AN lines cause I didn't wanna run a line that big.

 

i'd use something similar to oem port, i got 2 fittings i purchased some time ago.. o/d diamiter is 3/8" nipple with 1/2" threaded

 

I'm planning to do the following on my boosted setup:

1) Run a line from the stock nipple on valve cover to atmosphere.
2) Attach an AN fitting onto the turbo intake pipe. (vac source - open to directional airflow into turbo)
3) Hookup a line going from this fitting to one port (Port A) of a sealed catch can.
4) The 2nd port (Port B) of the catch can goes into the stock pcv.
5) This step is optional as I'm also thinking of teeing Port A of the catch can and run a line from here going into the IM with a check valve. This is to allow extra vac assisted ventilation when not in boost.

Any thoughts?

 

Would it work ok if u just did a catch can setup on the valve cover and left the stock pvc system on?