asianspeed

I just installed my turbo setup and I'm having some problems.

Problem #1:
When I WOT it, no matter what gear I'm in, the rpms won't go above about 5,500 rpms. And it's really slow to get there as well.

Problem #2:
I can't boost!!!! No matter what gear, up or down a hill, the car won't boost. It get's to about 1-2 vac....but won't go past 0.

I'm guessing problem #2 has to do with a leak in my IC piping, I'm going to check that out. But I can't hear my wastgate either...could it be stuck open, so I'm not creating any pressure? If so, how can I check it?

Thanks

sutrusu

double, triple, quadruple check for vacuum leaks on the manifold, etc.

make sure your wastegate has a seperate vacuum source as well.

lazerus

Have you jaked with your timing? sounds like you're a tooth off somewhere...

Flamenco-T

if you never hit boost, your WG will never open until it's preset boost...

check for vac leaks, are you sure you have no restriction in your intake piping ? that may be the reason why you're not hitting boost if you have no other IC piping leaks

stan

asianspeed

I'll double check my vac lines. But I'm pretty sure that they're ok. I've got my bov tee'd off of the brake booster, and I've got the boost guage tee'd off of the fpr, and I've got the wastegate connected to the compressor of the turbo. Is this correct? Should I connect the wastegate to another vac source? I did disconnect the breather line off of my old intake, and that's not connected to anything....that couldn't be the problem, right

So an leak in the vac would be the problem for not being able to rev to the redline?
And a leak in the IC piping would be the problem for not hitting boost?

Oh and I haven't messed with the timing at all.

Edit: The only place that there might be a leak would be between the wastegate and the turbo compressor. What problems would this cause?


[Modified by asianspeed, 12:03 AM 2/8/2003]

ninesecrx

look into the map sensor. Sounds like your in a limp mode. Are yo doing something to bleed off boost there?

MiraiZ

Dude..do you even need to ask....fix the leak and you'll probably fix the problem

asianspeed

When I was talking about the leak, I was referring to the vac lines. That shouldn't prevent me from boosting...right?

Joseph Davis

I'm going to disagree with nineseccrx on this one... limp mode kicks in a revlimiter much below 5500 rpms. It could be associated with a bad ground somewhere, but not limp home mode.

A leak in charge piping has to be pretty big to keep you from seeing boost, and it won't keep your from revving normally. I've had a hole in my charge piping about the size of a nickel, and I still got 2 psi. If you've a hole or bad connection in your charge pipe it's pretty easy to find.

FYI, I've hit limp home mode testing various bits of ECU code, and you do see boost in it... but start bucking almost as soon as you do. Be careful boosting with a CEL - if it isn't merely a code, but a dead CEL (meaning the ECU is in limp mode) then you can toast an engine.

Check into lazerus' idea of timing belt being off... that is the only thing I can think of that would make you rev lazily and not be able to rev very high. Those are some wierd symptoms... something is bound to turn up, just keep poking at the car.


[Modified by J. Davis, 12:25 PM 2/8/2003]

ninesecrx

here my question (since there is more then one limp mode) when it hits the 5500, does it cutout like a revlimiter? Since thats where your 5th gear gov. is set. I still think you have a problem with the map sensor...esp. since you did nothing else. I dont care how big the vacum leak is...it will still rev above 5500rpm.

Joseph Davis

There is only one limp home mode, and that is when the ECU kicks a CEL and operates on the backup processor. Revlimit is 4K rpms, and the only sensor it runs off of is the TPS.

I have had non-limp home revlimit conditions between 3K and 5K before due to bad engine grounds. My HF, back in the bad old days when I was sporting it in the 58hp stock trim, wouldn't rev over 4K due to a bad thermostat housing ground. it felt just like a regular Honda fuel-cut revlimit.

I'm not saying you aren't making a valid point, nineseccrx, but the strict definition of limp home mode is when the ECU decides everything is fubar and ignores it's program and main processor for preset limp settings. You'll have to forgive my harping... I'm a high toned **** bitch. Sorry

ninesecrx

What your saying isnt true about the limp modes though. Well, let me rephrase it this way. There are multiple cuts and operations in a factory ecu that would cut the revs off at certain points for certain reasons.

Joseph Davis

I am not aware of any.

Due to bad grounds the ECU can think any number of things and induce said revlimit, as it's ouput is only as good as it's input.

ninesecrx

Also im not sure what motor you have, but check your oil (just in case) and if you have a knock sensor...this could be falturing as well.

asianspeed

I haven't messed with the timing belt....and I'm not throwing a CEL. But when I did throw one it was a map sensor CEL. But I think I got that worked out. How can I tell when my car goes into limp mode? I'm pretty sure my oil is ok...and I don't think that I have a knock sensor. A new problem that I'm seeing is that my car will make a sound like I've got a flat tire, but it's not as loud. But this only happens when I'm barely pressing the gas and the rpms are at 2,000. Oh and I also heard something like a backfire while going about 25 mph in 3rd at about 2,300 rpms. Any ideas about these problems as well? Oh I double checked my vac lines and they all seem good. No leaks that I could find. I only tapped into the break booster and fpr, and the tee's are nice and tight.

asianspeed

I took my car out for a spin again. This time I took it out on the highway...which sucked. I maxed out at WOT at 40 mph in 2nd gear and at 5,000 rpms. The car just wouldn't go any faster, or rev any higher....nor did it even get close too boosting. Can't figure this out.... would a leak in the exhuast cause this...I'm not throwing a cel either. Could my belts slipping cause this problem? My oil line had a hole in it before and oil got on some of the belts. Could the belts be slipping? Small leaks between the mani and the turbo, or the turbo and the dp, would only cause boost creep or low boost correct? It wouldn't prevent any boosting would it?

Thanks

ninesecrx

yeah, if you got oil on the T-belt you could have slipped it. That would be a possibility. I still think you have a problem with the Map sensor though. Maybe you blew out the diaphram?

MiraiZ

Did you take that MAP limiter thingy off yet?...That also could be contributing to your problem...

asianspeed

No, I haven't removed the map limiter yet. If I do that, will I have to put my stock injectors back and remove the resistor box? Or will I be able to idle/drive fine with the 450cc injectors and resistors?

MiraiZ

no...your stock ECU can't handle 450's.I wouldn't drive around like that though...might wanna try an FMU??? Don't know how to set one up or how reliable they are though


NE1 else?

Tinker219

I ran an FMU for 3 months on 450s w/NO resistors(didnt know you needed them). My car rocked...9.04 @81 1/8th with severe traction problems into 3rd gear...
if you can find one for 70 bucks do that, if not, do the smc+ for 119.

Joseph Davis

If you popped the diaphragm of your MAP sensor, I don't think you'd idle very well at all. You'd accelerate best with a continual pumping of the gas pedal in that situation, not holding the gas pedal floored.

Limp home mode is characterized by a CEL and generally screwed up ride characterisitcs including loss of power and lower revlimit. You don't always kick a code with the CEL, especially if your ECU is totally fubar.

If you check timing belt alignment, compression, grounds, and maybe swap in another MAP sensor I'm sure you'll come across something that tells you wtf is going on.

I had one last kooky thought. If your vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter, it may be clogged which is giving you the slow to rev and low revlimit problem.

-=-

Try resetting ECU>? I don't know but a friend of mines had a car that won't go over 5500 rpm or something like that and he resetted hes ECU and it went to redline fine after that.

asianspeed

Actually that last kooky thought might make sense. I'm going to try and run an open downpipe and see if that helps the situation. That kinda makes sense. Anyone second that though?

Thanks again.

twkdCD595

not on a boosted app, but my beater got a clogged cat and that faulcker would chug and backfire very similar to what your saying.