cam advice
they should be ok get cam gears the best thing for SC engines is letting the exhaust breathe as free as possible the SC will take care of the intake side as for overlap i havent dealt with SC's in imports to answer directly ask me for domestic an i can tell you
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You'd be better off selling the Stage3"s and getting a GSR intake with an ITR exhaust.
I tried some NA cams on my SC setup with less duration than the Crower Stage3's, and lost a lot of power compared a $50 set of GSR cams that we swapped onto the motor on the dyno.
SC's don't like too much overlap, they are limited in what they can flow and get real inefficient if you have too much overlap in your cams.
The Crower Stage 2 Forced induction cams look interesting, about the duration of the GSR-I/ITR-E combo, but with more lift. I got a set for my SC motor and made 275 WHP on 6.5 PSI from a JRSC and that motor was trashed (up to 40% leakdown past the rings and a bad head gasket). The motor's apart getting some new pistons now, but I should have it together again in a frew weeks.
I tried some NA cams on my SC setup with less duration than the Crower Stage3's, and lost a lot of power compared a $50 set of GSR cams that we swapped onto the motor on the dyno.
SC's don't like too much overlap, they are limited in what they can flow and get real inefficient if you have too much overlap in your cams.
The Crower Stage 2 Forced induction cams look interesting, about the duration of the GSR-I/ITR-E combo, but with more lift. I got a set for my SC motor and made 275 WHP on 6.5 PSI from a JRSC and that motor was trashed (up to 40% leakdown past the rings and a bad head gasket). The motor's apart getting some new pistons now, but I should have it together again in a frew weeks.
I wouldn't say they were the way to go, but they look interesting. I think the GSR intake and ITR exhaust is probably the best proven combination for a JRSC setup.
Hey, since you've had every possible Honduh configuration under the sun and then a few that aren't, what is your experience with dialling the intake cam forward, like on the K-series? That's where the power is on those cars unless you choke off the exhaust.
It depends on the setup and the cams, I've gotten some really good results from about 4 degrees of extra separation with B16 cams on supercharged setups, they really don't like too much overlap, but I'd think that it would be the opposite on a N/A K-motor, so some intake advance should net you some gains. On my turbo setups it never made a significant difference from the stock settings, so I always just ran them stock. It seems like every setup is different though, so I'll degree the cams to see what I can get away with without the valves hitting the pistons or each other and adjust them on the dyno to see what happens.
what would you say i go with then ? i have the jdm b16a cams that came with the motor or crower stage 3 n/a .. or option 2 buy something new ? thanks for all the feed back
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On my turbo setups it never made a significant difference from the stock settings, so I always just ran them stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah, K-series are the same way in that respect, and I suppose a lot of other engines are as well. Pushing past the 300 whp range - which is not remotely fast in 3000 lb pig carts like EP3 or DC5 - the fuel and ignition maps for the various cam angles start looking increasingly different while the power curves look increasingly similar. At the 500+ level with everything tuned there is a barely a difference in power curves.
Give me a D or a B in a CRX any day.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by no_sir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would you say i go with then ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You were already given solid advice, you need to stop dicking around and follow it. All you are going to get at this point is either a bunch of people agreeing with rmcdaniels, or a bunch of fools with 16-18 second Accord automatics demonstrating how stupid they are.
Yah, K-series are the same way in that respect, and I suppose a lot of other engines are as well. Pushing past the 300 whp range - which is not remotely fast in 3000 lb pig carts like EP3 or DC5 - the fuel and ignition maps for the various cam angles start looking increasingly different while the power curves look increasingly similar. At the 500+ level with everything tuned there is a barely a difference in power curves.
Give me a D or a B in a CRX any day.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by no_sir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would you say i go with then ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You were already given solid advice, you need to stop dicking around and follow it. All you are going to get at this point is either a bunch of people agreeing with rmcdaniels, or a bunch of fools with 16-18 second Accord automatics demonstrating how stupid they are.
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