buy LS or 2 different B20s?
here is the deal. i can either get a B20b long block with about 40,000 miles on it from a buddy for 350, thats was sprayed with a 55 shot about 15 times before it was stolen. Or i can buy another B20b that has Arp rod bolt and head studs, but has a dent in cylinder 3 from excessive spraying for 250. my last option is to find an LS somewhere for who knows how much.
I think i want to go boost but im just a little worried about the strength of a stock B20. my goal which it has always been is between 250 and 300whp.
My plan is if i buy the B20 with 40,000, i would drop it in my 98 dx and drive it till i figure out what im going to do. If i got the other b20 i would have to get it sleeved and bored. which would save me in the long run for boosting. would it be smarter to just find an LS?so what is the best path? thanks
I think i want to go boost but im just a little worried about the strength of a stock B20. my goal which it has always been is between 250 and 300whp.
My plan is if i buy the B20 with 40,000, i would drop it in my 98 dx and drive it till i figure out what im going to do. If i got the other b20 i would have to get it sleeved and bored. which would save me in the long run for boosting. would it be smarter to just find an LS?so what is the best path? thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony413 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you arent doing anything to the motor IMMEDIATELY. get whichever one is in best condition and drive it around untill you decide</TD></TR></TABLE>should i be worried about cracking the cylinder walls on a b20 trying to push between 250-300whp.
no just get it tuned correctly and you won't have a problem just make sure they are in good condition. do a compression test and a leak down test if you can. that way you don't buy a expletiveed up motor to begin with
the B20 with 40,000miles on it is in perfect condition. it always ran awesome, and i know it had the **** beatin out of it,but the maintenance was always kept up on.
for that power goal i would def go with and ls due to strength reasons, friend of mine has 140xxx mile B18B1 with a worked head and crower cams making 417 on 15lbs all oem bottom end
ok im getting an LS probably tomorrow since im getting if from a friend for a kick *** deal. i also want to know what trim would be good for my goal. i can get a 57 trim turbonetics for 500. i dont know if that is too much, im new at all this. is there some sort of calculator for turbos?
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Skip the B20...get an LS or GSR, build a simple piston/rod combo and you'll be set. That combo can handle ~550whp on the stock sleeves; whereas, the B20 will be a gamble at anything more than 350whp regardless of the piston/rod combo. The sleeves are weaker than any of the other B series engines and IMO for your power goals, not worth it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skip the B20...get an LS or GSR, build a simple piston/rod combo and you'll be set. That combo can handle ~550whp on the stock sleeves; whereas, the B20 will be a gamble at anything more than 350whp regardless of the piston/rod combo. The sleeves are weaker than any of the other B series engines and IMO for your power goals, not worth it.
</TD></TR></TABLE> i have dropped the idea of getting a B20. Im getting an LS. do block guards do anything, FI motors?
</TD></TR></TABLE> i have dropped the idea of getting a B20. Im getting an LS. do block guards do anything, FI motors?
If the sleeves are going to break, a block guard isn't going to stop them. Block guards protect sleeves from moving side to side which in FI setups, is not how they break. Detonation is what breaks sleeves 99% of the time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the sleeves are going to break, a block guard isn't going to stop them. Block guards protect sleeves from moving side to side which in FI setups, is not how they break. Detonation is what breaks sleeves 99% of the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>thanks. so what do you think would be a good turbo for my goal?
For a goal of 250-300whp, there are a lot of turbos that would work. Some turbos will work better than others obviously, but the choice will depend on your budget and goals.
-T3 Super 60 .63ar
-T3/T04E 50trim
-GT3251b .63 ar (journal bearing)
-GT3255b .63 ar
-GT28rs .63 or .82 ar
...there are others
-T3 Super 60 .63ar
-T3/T04E 50trim
-GT3251b .63 ar (journal bearing)
-GT3255b .63 ar
-GT28rs .63 or .82 ar
...there are others
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For a goal of 250-300whp, there are a lot of turbos that would work. Some turbos will work better than others obviously, but the choice will depend on your budget and goals.
-T3 Super 60 .63ar
-T3/T04E 50trim
-GT3251b .63 ar (journal bearing)
-GT3255b .63 ar
-GT28rs .63 or .82 ar
...there are others</TD></TR></TABLE>so it looks to me that either a 50 trim or a 60 trim would be fine. why not a 57 trim and why a .63 ar, just wondering?the .63ar is on the turbine side right, not the compressor side?
Modified by jewpont at 9:56 PM 1/17/2008
-T3 Super 60 .63ar
-T3/T04E 50trim
-GT3251b .63 ar (journal bearing)
-GT3255b .63 ar
-GT28rs .63 or .82 ar
...there are others</TD></TR></TABLE>so it looks to me that either a 50 trim or a 60 trim would be fine. why not a 57 trim and why a .63 ar, just wondering?the .63ar is on the turbine side right, not the compressor side?
Modified by jewpont at 9:56 PM 1/17/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 50 trim is a T4 compressor; whereas, the Super 60 uses a T3 compressor hence the T3 denotation. The 57 would work for your goals, but would be excessively laggy. </TD></TR></TABLE>i will agree totally with the 57 trim being laggy, a good all around turbo that is quick on spool and would work well in ur LS rpm range would be a disco potato GT28RS expensive but respond well, or if u have further goals which i'm sure u will T3/T04E 57 trim is a great but the money factor between the 2 is quite noticeable so ur mind will need to be made up if u wanna stay at ur power goal forever or eventually upgrade
i would eventually like to upgrade after a few years. i think i want to go with a garrett T3/TO4E 50 trim. i can get either .48 or .63 ar. the .48 would probably spool to fast right? also what is the advantage of having a 360deg thrust bearing over a 270deg thrust bearing?
Modified by jewpont at 6:58 AM 1/18/2008
Modified by jewpont at 6:59 AM 1/18/2008
Modified by jewpont at 6:58 AM 1/18/2008
Modified by jewpont at 6:59 AM 1/18/2008
yes the .48 would spool a lil faster i would say prolly full boost at 3000-3200 givin the stock compression of an ls overall the 50 trim would be good all around especially in ur powerband
The .48 ar turbine housing will spool it faster, but there is the possibility that the turbo will start to run out of breath up top. I doubt it will happen at lower boost levels like you're planning to run, but the power may drop off in the upper RPMs
no prob this is one of the things i love about honda-tech people there to help one another not bitch and moan and tell you that ur stupid for turboing or wutever hope that didnt sound to gay





