This past week I purchased an assembled Benson sleeved shortblock that has been sitting in a garage for several years. The owner seemed very knowledgable and was a straight up guy. He gave up on his buld so I purchased the block and head together for what I think is an amazing price. Here is a rundown and pictures of the block.

B18c1 GSR block, girdle
83mm Benson sleeves
LS crank
83mm 9:1 CP's
LS Pauter rods
new bearings, water pump and oil pump
0 MIles

Cylinders look like they have been kept lubed and are very fresh with the exception of a very small area at the top if 1 of the cylinders which I dont think will be an issue. All others look great.

Here are my questions. Before running this bad boy, because it has been sitting for quite some time, is there anything I should do before putting it to use? Anything I should check?

 

I am sure they used some assembly lube on the block so the bearings should be ok but before rotating it I would definitely get some oil soaked into the rings.

If its been sitting open I would be worried about contaminants. Some of that sand on the ground surely made its way in. If you are comfortable tearing it down and re assembling everything I would go ahead and do that. It really wouldn't take a lot of time or effort.

If it was sealed in plastic then you probably shouldn't need to do that.

This is JMO.

 

Thanks. These photos were taken in my storage unit not where the block was stored for the past 3 years. It has been in my storage for about a week. But you make a great point. I am going to wrap it in plastic as soon as I get home to prevent any of that sand on the ground from getting into the cylinders. You think it would be a good idea to pull the pan and spray the crank, rods, bearings area with lithium grease spray? I want to avoid it being dry when it is started up for the first time. I would also make sure to build oil pressure before getting it fired up. Anyone else have any thoughts?

 

I am also interested in an answer because my cylinder walls also has some surface rust starting that I noticed last night.Therefore last night I wiped down the cylinder walls and pistons with WD-40 that I sprayed on a rag. I got the block back from the machine shop about 2 months ago with the rotating assembly assembled. It was wrapped in shrink wrap and it had a big plastic bag over it when I got it back from the machine shop. I took off the shrink wrap to put it on the engine stand so that I could start working on it while I am waiting on my head to come back from the machine shop. It has only been 3 weeks since I took the shrink wrap off and sent out my head. Also the engine is stored in the garage with the big plastic bag over it. Any answers will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance H-T.

 

I dont like the condition of the top of the cylinder wall in the second picture, can you clean the large black patch off with brake kleen? Can you feel the damage with your finger nail? If so I would get the block honed to remove the damage, but the other spots dont look that bad...

The effect of a light hone will increase your piston to wall clearance and rings end gaps but if the damage is as minor as it apears in the pics you will be able to use the ring set.

 

Block is no good because it was sitting 3 years, just give it to me and I'll deal with it ;p. I'm with TKERacer619 on this one, if it was sealed than you should be ok but if it was left in the open than it would be a good idea to tear it down and reassemble.

 

At first, the top of the cylinder wall can be felt with the fingernail, yes. I took wd-40 and and a scotchbrite to it and it is much smoother now and can hardly be felt with my nail, very slightly. I didnt think this would be much of an issue because the rings don't go up that high. What do you think? The rest of the discoloration in the cylinders is very very smooth, not able to be felt at all with my nails. Its just discolored for some reason.

 

Most of the time it was stored it had the head bolted on to it. The seller was not getting any bites on the entire longblock so he seperated in an attempt to sell. I'd say it was stored like this for maybe 2-3 weeks in his garage. The photos taken above are in my storage unit and has only been there less than a week since I bought it (bought it 6/23). Any good way to find if contaminents have gotten in without tearing it apart? Possibly spray a good amount of WD-40 down in the cylinders and let it sit for a day to see if anything comes out the other end? Then flip it upside down and spray from the bottom end and let it sit? I'd like to avoid ripping it apart, but will bring it to a machine shop if its necessary.

 

Another concern I have is that, if I bring it to the machine shop to disassemble and hone, would I need to go with a diff piston because clearances have been affected by the new hone.

At the same time, I'm thinking I wouldnt need to hone at all because the part that I can feel with my fingernail is so far at the top of the walls. Plus it can only be very slightly felt after taking the scotch brite and wd-40 to it.

Ugh. In for more advice and opinions

 

Yea, my block has only been unwrapped for 3 weeks and last night I noticed a little bit of surface rust starting already.

 

Yes the rings arent there but the top of the piston could get damaged and it does move up in down the bore....if you cant feel it with your nail I would run it...

 

It will effect the Piston to wall clearance but nothing dramatic requiring new pistons. This might not be a bad thing. Because if there is any sort of sound coming from the block after its running the first question people are going to ask is "What is piston to wall clearance?".

When my block showed up sleeved, balanced, and blueprinted I had to have it taken back apart and cleaned because there were still metal shavings in threaded holes. I was not a happy camper at all. So I know how you feel but taking it apart now, cleaning up the cylinders, and re assembly will take no time at all. The cost far outweighs the mental stress of wondering. It will also give you a change to get fresh assembly lube in the bearings.

If you can't feel anything its probably ok but if you can feel it its not ok. I just assumed it was oil spatter when I first saw it in regards to that spot.

You have to spray sleeved blocks with oil and wrap them in plastic to keep them from rusting. Also, none of this magic mixture of water and water wetter for coolant. You need to be running 50/50 antifreeze and water to keep corrosion at a minimum.

 

I've decided to bring the block to the machine shop and see what they say. at the minimum I'm going to rehone and reassemble. Hopefully the hone wont effect the piston to wall too badly requiring me to go 84mm and get new pistons.

Anyone know how to identify these pistons so I can get specs on ptw? Id like to provide these specs to the machine shop so they can tell me if the hone will make it unacceptable to keep the same pistons.

 

A light hone to clean that up won't effect the ptw enough to cause any concerns Jay. Good idea takin it to get done though

 

A standard hone takes over a hundred strokes to remove 0.001" - you guys are funny.

 

These responses make me feel much better. Thanks guys. It'd be great to not have to buy new pistons and keep it at 83mm which would allow for for atleast a couple rebuilds if I need it with this block. Hope to bring it to the shop this week. I'll update this soon and let you know how I make out.

 

a couple rebuilds ? you plan on blowing it up alot ? lol

 

Can't hurt to be realistic from time to time

 

LOL, I seriously hope not. You know what I mean Jus, it would allow some some boring if I needed it in the future.


haha exactly.

 

Yeah i got you, just bustin your ***** playa. You know anyone looking for a bike ? I need to sell my bike to fund my car lol. 2003 kawasaki Z1000.

 

I dont, but can spread the word. Is it up here in CT? What plans you have for the teg?