integranator

iTrader: (2)

So how many of you guys are rocking your built motors during the winter? I'm desperately trying to find a beater so I don't have to hear the pain of my sleeved motor starting up in the below 40 degree weather every morning and the 1000cc injectors barely idling!! So, exactly how bad is this, and should I be trying even harder to get another car?

Integra_drk

i would avoid driving it in the cold if at all possible. There is that time upon startup when its really cold when there is metal to metal contact before the oil reaches all the engine parts. Rule of thumb i use, if I can see my breath outside I usually take my beater. This might be a little over doing it but there is nothing wrong with protecting an investment.

stiffdogg06

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra_drk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would avoid driving it in the cold if at all possible. There is that time upon startup when its really cold when there is metal to metal contact before the oil reaches all the engine parts. Rule of thumb i use, if I can see my breath outside I usually take my beater. This might be a little over doing it but there is nothing wrong with protecting an investment. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Couldn't you pull your spark plugs and crank it to get oil going? Or would that prime other things?

Integra_drk

i guess you could do that but i really dont feel like pulling my plugs every time i want to drive somewhere lol.

stiffdogg06

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra_drk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess you could do that but i really dont feel like pulling my plugs every time i want to drive somewhere lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess the only time i'd do it is at that first start up and the start ups when the car has been sitting for hours at a time.

locash

Hell, if you're really concerned, get a block heater, Honda probably still sells them, they used to offer them for their older models.. You can then keep it plugged in at night and have the oil all nice and warm, ready to fire right up..

lambertincorp

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hell, if you're really concerned, get a block heater, Honda probably still sells them, they used to offer them for their older models.. You can then keep it plugged in at night and have the oil all nice and warm, ready to fire right up.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i want that

borat

Just checked, and http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/ has them. Pretty cheap too, only $25-40. Or you could get it from the dealer for $15 or so more.

96 GSR-T

my car sits in a heated garage , I cant miss out on that cool air with a turbo car, they run so much smoother in the cold .

NJIN BUILDR

Your idle will probably be better in the winter.My car runs mint in the winter.Be aware you tune is going to be leaner every where.You are going to have sub 40* inlet air temps.Lots of oxygen.Unfortunately there is no traction to take advantage of all that power.

non-VTEC

i drive my sleeved/built setup in the winter. put some good synthetic 5w30 and crank it over like normal.......fires up all the time.....obviously it's a little louder since the piston to wall clearance is greater but after about a minute or so the noise is gone. i hardly doubt you will damage anything and if your ecu is tuned it should start and idle fine.

if you can afford a separate winter beater then by all means go for it.......if you cant then there is nothing wrong with driving your built setup during winter months......

one last comment to the OP......40deg weather? are you kidding? haha.......thats not even remotely close to being cold.........try sub zero temps.....its was -10c or 14f the other morning here

integraRS-T

40deg+turbo-snow=**** load of fun and power

mattcivic

honda + snow + boost + 4wd= always sideways

my wagon ran great at the end of last winter boosted since then ive taken the kit off for my other project but im already in the works on putting a buily Z6 in along with another turbo set-up should be lots of fun


http://s134.photobucket.com/al...1.flv

http://s134.photobucket.com/al...2.flv

http://s134.photobucket.com/al...3.flv

Schister66

I'm not even running a built motor and my car runs like complete **** right now...i start it up and it seems like i have 2 dead cylinders for about a minute...after that it works fine. I think a retune will solve a lot of my problems...including my odd timing retard situation after my car warms up for a long time.

integranator

iTrader: (2)

Thanks alot guys, I realy appreciate the help. I'm going to change the oil to 5dub and look to purchase a block heater. I was more worried about the iron sleeves and the pistons taking a while to heat up!!

NJIN BUILDR

Hondas don't have much coolant and warm up pretty quick.As long as your temp guage doesn't run real low you will be OK.I never have a problem running cold even in the single digit numbers outside.

fireman mike2288

it wont hurt ur car to drive it in the winter as long as when u start it just give it 5mins to arm up u know i had a delsol with 210,000 miles on it my first car i had it camed 75 shot nos dc header and 21/4 inch exhast and where i use to live it got like 35 degres out side in winter and the car ran GREAT!!!!

95dxsir2

yeah, you should deff. get that figured out. get a block heater

integranator

iTrader: (2)

welp, just picked up a blown headgasket CRX for 300$. So I guess that will alleviate the issue of the turdball!!

mattcivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integranator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">welp, just picked up a blown headgasket CRX for 300$. So I guess that will alleviate the issue of the turdball!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

score

tokesGTR

I can't remember where he got it from, but a buddy of mine got an oil heater that goes right onto the sump to directly heat up the oil. Might be worth looking into. I know he uses it in the spring/summer/fall as well, can never hurt to have warm oil when you're starting your car.

rorik

Below 40 degrees is not cold enough for you do have to do anything. Synthetic oil wouldn't be a bad idea though. I live in south dakota, it gets below Zero here in the winter. Most of the people out here plug their cars in when it gets that cold. With that level of cold, if you boost right away (like if you're thinking "damn it's cold out, I can't feel my hands and I'm shaking uncontrollably, I know how to get my motor warm quick") the pistons will get hot enough to scuff horribly in the still frozen sleeves, probably ruining the motor.

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integranator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how many of you guys are rocking your built motors during the winter? I'm desperately trying to find a beater so I don't have to hear the pain of my sleeved motor starting up in the below 40 degree weather every morning and the 1000cc injectors barely idling!! So, exactly how bad is this, and should I be trying even harder to get another car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

What funny is that, when you convert all temps to Kelvin (absolute, read about it), 72F is not much different from 32F:

72F = 295K (room temp)
32F = 273K (water freezes)
200F = 366K (engine coolant temp)
1500F = 1088K (high turbo EGT's)

In other words, at 72F, you have to heat your coolant 24% to get to opperating temp. At 32F, its 34% (only 10% more!). The difference between the combusted air and room/freezing temps is only 8%.

32F air only needs 8% more heat than 72F air to get to EGT temps.


Now if we use Kelvin to explain thermal expansion of metal parts (of which is linear with kelvin), its the same ****. 32F pistons are only 8% smaller than 72F pistons, etc. Makes you want to stop being a *****, don't it?

integranator

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What funny is that, when you convert all temps to Kelvin (absolute, read about it), 72F is not much different from 32F:

72F = 295K (room temp)
32F = 273K (water freezes)
200F = 366K (engine coolant temp)
1500F = 1088K (high turbo EGT's)

In other words, at 72F, you have to heat your coolant 24% to get to opperating temp. At 32F, its 34% (only 10% more!). The difference between the combusted air and room/freezing temps is only 8%.

32F air only needs 8% more heat than 72F air to get to EGT temps.


Now if we use Kelvin to explain thermal expansion of metal parts (of which is linear with kelvin), its the same ****. 32F pistons are only 8% smaller than 72F pistons, etc. Makes you want to stop being a *****, don't it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well played sir.

sleepencivic

for all your winter drivers do you have a winter tune for the winter and summer tune for the summer? here in va it gets as hot as 100F in the sumer and low 20's in the winter...i know most software has provision for air inlet temps but not that big of a range?