SlowPokeEg

Since the good ol' D-series is starting to show its age, i'm contemplating building a budget LS motor.

Just wondering what many of you have done and a range of what it would cost.
I would imagine i could only afford to do a mild build of the bottom end and possibly some headwork.

Mostly, just looking for OEM type specs with aftermarket power capability, as this car will be street driven, cruised around town often, and don't wanna rape myself at the pump

Thanks for the help HT

Don't flame either, if there is a helpful link that you could post that could lead me to my answers, post it up!

urbansi

Sounds like eagles and srp's would do perfect for your setup, but dont forget that you also need to throw in machine work, and assembly if you are not able to do it yourself.

A lot of people under estimate the cost of building a motor, well atleast doing it right. I ended up spending over $700 alone in machine work on top of the $400 assembly and $760 for rods and pistons. Nothing is cheap when it comes to things like this.

Budget things correctly and you should be ok.

Topdawgg

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1323059

cant get any more then that in one thread

SlowPokeEg

2 replies........both very useful!

Ya, budget building takes LOTS of advice and research.

I was looking into Slowmotionmotorsports.com which are an Ohio based shop that does just about everything. They do package deals where you bring them a longblock and they basically build the bottom end, machine it all and reassemble it for about $3k. Sounded pretty fair.

I also want to learn more about sleeving.........because it seems to be debatable with LS motors.....

Also, for a minor build, is machining, rods, pistons, and bearings about all i would need (unless i end up needing sleeves) for a reliable 300-400hp motor?

Thanks for the help so far!!

MoonScryer

As said above, everything can add up quickly. You may be able to save some money buying slightly used parts - check the local ricer boards, find out who is doing all the engine building, see if they have some softly used stuff.

My LS:

Bought a set of 10.5:1 .020 SRP pistons for $100, One high mileage but some what clean and running B18a for $100, stripped it down myself, bore and hone was $200, ARP rod bolts and balance rods was $75, OEM bearings I think I spent $130?? on.

I did all my own measuring, my own assembly.

The key is do as much yourself as you can. Yes, I probably spent near as much as on tools - good bore gauge, micrometer, valve spring installer, two torque wrenches, etc - and time doing my bottom end myself as I could of paid someone, but this way I can do it all myself again and have the tools to do it.

I run the above on 8psi - not some big horsepower monster, but it runs well, the higher compression makes for good off boost power. I bought the SRP's due to price and the fact is they don't have the higher / larger rate of expansion that normal forged pistons do. You can't run high boost on them, no, but I wasn't looking to.

Also, don't let anyone tell you "OMG high compression youz goin to blow y0 motar!!!111" because they did. As stated ad nausem, it is all in the tune. Tune conservative for a street tune, and it will last you many miles and smiles

pchris52

wish i could of saved money but this was my first go around, still breakin the motor in.....
b18b1 block 100 bucks
darton sleeves 800
gloden eagle 2.0 turbo stoker kit 1900
gsr girdle 650 installed
crower valve train 250
crower 404 cams 275 sale!
port flowed with 2mm over sized valves 900

one big head ache for over a year priceless
cant wait to have tony1 tune it an me boost it dammit 1 year too long not having boost!

92DAturboteg

Been working on my lst for wat too long also.

Block
b18a block at golden eagle for sleeves
JE 84mm pistons and rings
Eagle rods
Stock micropolished and balanced crank
Balanced rotating assy.
Will be bluprinted/assembled by me
All OEM gaskets and seals

PR4 Head
Lots of portwork
Ferrea 1mm oversized valves
New bronze guides
OEM valve seals
Crower dual spings and retainers
402T cams for now

Turbo
Peakboost FTW mani. D.P/D.T
Tial 38mm gate
GT 3076r .63a/r
Custom 3 in. exhaust
Full Race backdoor intercooler with custom piping
Tial bov
Apex avcr boost controller
Full line of 52mm Greddy guages

And the list goes on and on

I had another block sleeved by a local machinist and they immediatly sunk, just from tourqing the head down to check valve to piston clearence My advice to the OP or anyone looking into slevves is to not have it done locally unless you live near dan benson or another reputable sleeve installing machine shop.