adictionbass

Jump to 10th post on second page for current info. Thanks guys


whats up guys. I started having trouble with the car tonight. It was running good last week; today i changed the dist. cap and rotor, and plus, and tensioned the T belt a little bit, and the car is missing now.
So far i switched the cap and plugs back with no changed. Check the timming, with the cam marks and crank mark, and also with a timming light.
I started getting the idea of maybe a bent valve, went and got a compression tester
#1 - 120
2 - 110
3 - 110
4 115

How do these numbers sound for a 2 liter gsr with 9:1 compression?
Car is running on hondata basemaps, but cant see that thats the problem since it ran fine last week.


Modified by adictionbass at 6:24 PM 3/14/2005

adictionbass

o yea, also did a vac. test and all was good ??

hoya_10fintec

any idling problem? does engine sound/feel really hestated when you drive it?

I'm sure you did this right but.. did you put back the spark plug wires in the right place? I can't see what could go wrong other than that since it started happening after you replaced the cap and rotor..

good luck

Kwuaymaikrup

Those numbers seem extremely low. I pull 210 cross the board on my 2.0 9:1 compression engine. You should check the head out. Bryson had almost the same problem that you are describing and it ended up being a dropped valve.

adictionbass

i was thinking it was low, but they all came out pretty even, so i didnt know how much of a difference going out to 84 mm and dropping the compression to 9:1 was going to make.

Yes the wires are all on right. The car hasnt not been diven yet, just started a few times. I was an idiot and bought an already built motor. I cannot figure out why it didnt have this problem last week and now it does.

The motor runs very smooth. Idle has been sitting at about 1200, but i have yet to let it run long enough for the fan to come on.

If it is a dropped valve, wouldnt the compression be almost nothing in at least one cylinder??

Kwuaymaikrup

I cannot speak from experience but on Bryson's car his compression was like 70ish on all 4 cylinders. Then he discovered the valve. Had you tested the compression before this?

foumer

is it a oem rotor or aftermarket? I Just started to have that problem, even though I am N/A. I was reading upon the stock rotor being better than the aftermarket ones. But I think I damged my distributor because my rotor was arcking. Check this thread out

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=880217

adictionbass

no i didnt, im starting to whish i had. I had to go out and buy the tester when it started missing.

adictionbass

all the parts i use are stock honda/acura, i get a good discount

D@nnY

your compression is off alot it should be around 200...check the valve timing again and line up the mark on the oil pump this time

Kwuaymaikrup

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i didnt, im starting to whish i had. I had to go out and buy the tester when it started missing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That sucks...you might never know. Maybe it was that way when you got it and it finally gave up on you. Hopefully it is something stupid. Have you checked the cam timing?

adictionbass

the timing is dead on. The cams and the crank pulley on the oil pump. If it was missing when i first started the car i would just take the loss and pull the head and fix it. But it ran amazing.. Now its running just as smooth with a miss in it. Shouldnt doing the vac. test show a bad valve? It sat right at 20 +/- .5.
I ran the motor for about 30-45 sec, then did the test. So it def. wasnt hot.

hoya_10fintec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is a dropped valve, wouldnt the compression be almost nothing in at least one cylinder??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't see how it's a dropped valve.. unless dropped valves are in all cyl's equally, which I highly doubt.. strange problem you have.. check the back of the oil cap?

adictionbass

what would i be checking for?

Kwuaymaikrup

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would i be checking for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pudding...

adictionbass

and that would mean...

hoya_10fintec

just to be safe... a blown headgasket or lifted head... but again I doubt it 'cause if it's a lifted head, that'll be ugly.. any unusual smoke from the rear?

adictionbass

it took me a min, i must be pretty tired. The cap on the valve cover. Nah that looks perfectly fine.. I pulled the valve cover and its nice, silver, and shinny covered with good clean oil

adictionbass

right now its pretty much just a downpipe, but running pretty clean from most cars ive seen.

hoya_10fintec

hmm.. that's good. I'm out of ideas... I really hope you fix it tho..

good luck, man

adictionbass

Thanks for your help man

This wouldnt have anything to do with running too thin oil would it? Im just wondering because its got 5w30 in it, but for the most part, all its done is idle.

hoya_10fintec

using thin oil doesn't effect anything unless you go into boost and the oil gets thinner 'cause of the turbo's temp.. I personally use 10-30 in winter and 10-40 in summer..hope that help.

adictionbass

i was going to use 10w30 but i hade like 6 quarts of 5w30 so i threw that in. I didnt know if it would make an difference with the compression test or not.
I guess ill have to go back over the timming and such this weekend, it sucks having to drive an hour just to touch/look at it.

adictionbass

*Boostwerks*

Did you make sure you were WOT during the compression test? For me that makes about a 30-40psi difference.

When my motor was fine, it had 150 all accross the board, but I'm also at 5600ft.

I did drop a valve, but it was only a couple mms. It didn't actually fall in the cylinder. What happened is that when I did a pull in 3rd gear it Reved up too fast (went from 5K too 9500K instantly) floated the valves and all 8 intake valves were ever so slightly bent. Not enough too visually tell, but when I put some brake cleaner in the ports all 8 intake valve leaked while non of the exhaust valves leaked.

When is the car missing? just at idle?

I wouldn't worry about this quite yet man.