aleks77

Hey guys i just changed the headgasket on my 91 accord, When im at TDC line on the flywheel the line on the CAM seems like maybe half a tooth off...

The car is bouncing the RPM like crazy at idle from 800 to 2500. I tried driving it and its doing the same thing as I drive IN GEAR, also there is some bogging when trying to accelerate. Now i took the charge piping off and had the car running, inside the throttle body i plugged up the TOP hole on the left and the car idles perfect, if i plug both holes on the left the car dies. Now i thought this means the IACV is busted but doesnt seem to be the case, i used a block off flange and took the IACV off completely. And it still does it and there is very strong vacuum on that top left hole in the TB.

Any help is appreciated, im not sure if it the timing is possibly off? Because if its the IACV or anything related to that i didnt think it would cause any kind of hesitation/bogging when accelerating.

Motor is F22A6 SOHC, AEM Cam gear, should i try adjusting the cam gear to see if i can get the timing bang on?

92hondalude

its your FITV valve. Remove it and clean.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

there is an idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttlebody. i had an accord a few years back and the idle would jump around like crazy and i found that screw kept backing out. that fixed most of the jumping idle but then it also needed an IACV

aleks77

could FITV or the IACV cause my issues with bogging when driving? And also this rpm bouncing happens IN GEAR, not just at idle (in neutral)

I tried blocking off the FITV and the IACV valves and no help, only thing that seems to fix the problem is plugging the top left hole inside the throttle body....which i think goes to the IACV, but maybe also something else? Because if i block off the 2 iacv holes that should do same thing as pluggin the top hole in the TB no?

srmofo

sounds like seperate issues....yes bad timing can cause hesitation on acceleration....

as far as the rpms, have you bleed the coolant system? make sure to disconnect the coolant line going to the IACV, and bleed it until no air is coming out. just keep adding coolant into the radiator until its running out in a solid stream

aleks77

yes bled the radiator, used the nipple on the tstat. Never heard of disconnecting it at the IACV?

I turned the distributor all the way towards the front of the car and the idle is a lot better, its not bouncing just idling at 1600rpm, with the idle screw all the way in. I tried driving it but it still bounces up and down in the rpms if you give it gas.

When i took everything apart i marked everything well and put it back exactly the same way, the dizzy was marked on top. If i have to move the dizzy so far out of my last location does this mean my cam/crank timing is off?

aleks77

Ok i just checked the timing and it all looks good, here are some pics, maybe im not seeing something??

TDC mark on the flywheel



Cam Gear









My markings on the crank pulley before i took the belt off, lines up (not perfect tho, like 1mm off)

b20beast83

timing seems fine

aleks77

Ya i think so too....could my problems be cause simply by a bad IACV? Including bogging/hesitation on acceleration?

I would think unplugging/blocking it would show some improvement but nothing. Does the top left hole inside the throttle body go to anything else?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

that rusty *** rotor certainly isnt helping things

check to be sure your TPS is in proper working order. should be .5v closed and im pretty sure 4.5 or 5v all the way open

aleks77

I dont see how the TPS would just stop working all of a sudden at the same time as i decide to change the headgasket but i will def check it. Remember everything was working perfect, i park the car for a month, change the HG and paint the intake manifold, now im having this problem. Im thinking i just didnt put something back together correctly, not something broke.

Today i replaced both the IACV and the FICV with 100% guranteed working units, and the problem is still happening. I need to know where else does the hole on the TOP LEFT inside the throttle body go to besides the IACV, because when i plug it all my problems disappear....

b20beast83

adjust your idle screw

aleks77

alright guys, figured it out, i had a spare intake manifold laying around, so i took it apart, and blew compressed air into the top hole inside the throttle body, the air came out of the FITV so i blocked that hole, and the air came out of the #9 in the pic below, VALVE ASSY., AIR BOOST. So i blocked it off on my car, and voila, car runs perfect I think i must have busted the valve inside this valve when i blew it out with compressed air (because it had some metal shavings in it). So for future reference:

Top Hole = FITV + Air boost
Bottom hole = IACV