what does everyone think of 9:1 jepistons crower rods compression 450cc injectors hondata and stock top end. I became too poor too afford the rest (damn college). Oh yea its a b16. Can I get significant numbers with stock valvetrain i'll prolly run 16 psi or so.


[Modified by b16matt, 3:36 PM 2/14/2003]

 

^^^^^^^^^

 

Bump again realy need help got my head pulled right know decisions must be made


[Modified by b16matt, 3:41 PM 2/14/2003]

 

No help?

 

the main downside to not having your head reworked, is not being able to rev the hell out of it... (although there are other advantages to doing headwork)
you should still be happy with the built bottom...

Take your time and do it right... when you can afford to do the head, then do it.
Dont rush it... this is a VERY expensive hobby.

 

what about just springs and retainers?

 

damn, you sure are bumping threads like no other.

 

my bad. woops there it goes again

 

I personally would do the whole head at once... the labor is less that way...

but it isnt my money.

 

what about sleeving? If you dont sleeve and run 16psi...thatll pop in about a week...

 

What are your power goals? I'm in the process of building right now and I am always eager to boost but I am going to wait it out until I have all of my parts. I just spent a couple of bucks with GEM today too so I am not buying any more parts for another month or two.

 

I am sleeved my whole bottom end is built by jg engine dynamics.
just lacking top end!


[Modified by b16matt, 9:14 PM 2/14/2003]


[Modified by b16matt, 3:14 AM 2/15/2003]

 

Remember, horsepower is made in the head, not the block. Be careful, those 450's might be your weak link. There are guys making outrageous power with stock heads, here.

 

Bwwaahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah
That's a good one. Where did that number come from thin air? Any concrete data to backup this claim?

 

those resistor boxes are a dime a dozen.

 

i have a sleeved and built bottom end, and stock head and have been running it for about 2 years now and havent wanted to build my head and i make over 300whp so it is not neccesary to build it. (run-on sentences 0wn) If I were you I would put the springs and retainers, that's what I am doing.

 

Thats a good idea. Thats what I did today. I went to summit racing today and bought Crower springs and Ti retainers. 10,000 Rpm's baby.

 

B16matt didnt mention that he had a built blocK. If he did i missed it and appoligize. I said 16 psi because he did mention that, and a stock B16A with 10.2:1 compression would be hard pressed to hold up under that much boost.
ya i thought it was funny too..

 

I had a built bottom end and completely stock top end (b18c) and I made 365whp @ 16psi.. no problems at all

 

if you are going to do one thing to the head I would do valves before springs and retainers. Valves are a safety item but springs and retainers will not gain you any hp and in fact my take away power with stock cams. stiffer springs = more drag. I would rec. stainless valves and stock springs and reatiners or maybe itr springs.

 

but you cant rev to 10 g's with out them. kaboom I dont have a rev limiter on my hondata. only 10g if i have springs and ratainers


[Modified by b16matt, 8:48 PM 2/16/2003]

 

Taking your engine to 10,000RPM isn't good for it either =/ I'm saving right now for ITR springs, titanium retainers, stainless steel valves and bronze valve guides.

 

running stock springs and retainers if not a good idea after maybe 12 pounds. You have to remember that high rpms and boost is keeping the valves open and its going to float a vlave. Also if you break a retainer, the assembly is going to drop into the cycl. and you can kiss good-bye to everything in there head and block. At least add springs and retainers.

 

I did I just bought crower springs and ti retainers.

 

Good boy, Matt. Nobody every blew anything up from over building. Besides Hondas sound really cool at like 9,000rpm, and like an indy car on crack at 9,500rpm. At least my NA ***** does. You need my valve spring puller I got it at the shop in my tool box. You can use my snap-on valve lash tool too. I would reccomend relashing the valves when you are done. Oh yeah I got a digital snap-on torque wrench on the way too, it should be here next week. It does inch/lbs, ft/lbs, and newton meters from 5-500 on a ft/lb scale. That will make assembling the head a breeze. Just make sure you get 'em back before the next millinium.