good luck keeping your wheel straight on the streets with 500 to the wheels

 

haha

 

traction isnt as bad as people make it out to be. gear dependent boost + bf drags+ knowing not to hit 500 whp in 1st = good time.


now for most people i would suggest 10:1 as a good compression, i just like to push things and have great confidence in my tuner

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">higher compression will help spool faster. thats what i like on the street. 500 whp is just a # on paper.

besides i made 400 whp on 15 # on pump gas, 11:1. i was hitting boost at 2500 rpm with 60-1 .82 a/r. made over 452 on 19 # and 110.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Add some alcohol injection.

 

bumped

 

I happen to have a B20B with 8.8 CR. The only difference in the motors that I have been able to find thus far is that the B20Z has 9.6 CR. It also explains the Hp jump. The B is rated at 126hp while the Z is rated at 146hp... Compression does make a difference in power band and spool up. If you are going for ***** out power, get the high compression motor with boost. If you want a nice DD and something that doesnt need race gas every time you fill up get the 9.1 CR pistons.

Good Luck

Blaze

 

What about this fellaz maybe this will work...if i run like 10:1 with lower boost(10ish but i guess thats kinda irrelivant without knowing the turbo) on pump gas then at the track i can put in the racin gas and pump up the boost(20ish)...also i was wondering one thing about tuning...can i have like two different maps saved for such a reason as this??? thanks you guys are nuts the only thing that concerns me with that idea is that i might get a nervous tick if a corvette pulls up to the light with me and i wanna turn it up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nid Styles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



Add some alcohol injection. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why, when instead you could just run 9:1 on pump gas, make just as much if not more power, not have to spend extra money on a meth kit, not have to worry about keeping the meth container full, and not have to worry about the kit malfunctioning? After I broke in and drove my 8:1 1.9L GSR just fine naturally aspirated I got my turbo kit reinstalled, and it's a blast. T3/T67 isn't here yet, so I slapped my old T3/60-1 on and nothing puts a grin on your face better than watching the boost gauge slam past 20 psi with pump gas in the tank with not a hint on detonation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why, when instead you could just run 9:1 on pump gas, make just as much if not more power, not have to spend extra money on a meth kit, not have to worry about keeping the meth container full, and not have to worry about the kit malfunctioning? After I broke in and drove my 8:1 1.9L GSR just fine naturally aspirated I got my turbo kit reinstalled, and it's a blast. T3/T67 isn't here yet, so I slapped my old T3/60-1 on and nothing puts a grin on your face better than watching the boost gauge slam past 20 psi with pump gas in the tank with not a hint on detonation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so how much power u puttin out on that 20+ lbs? For some reason i dont think your puttin out that much power, cuz on what road in america can u watch the boost gauge slam past 20 and have traction on street tires? and what would be the point?? Just to say well.. i can boost 20 on pump gas?? I dont think most people need to boost 20+ lbs on the street, nor do they need to be driving around in drag radials just to get traction. There for i dont see the problem with 10:1 compression and 10 lbs of boost on the street, then going to the track droppin in some c16(like most guys do anyways) and boosting 20+lbs.

b16coupe,
Do not take the my first two sentences as a personal attack on your car, i used it as an example to try to get a point across that 20+lbs on the street is pointless.

 

my friend puts down just under 20psi in his sundance lol he doesnt have traction problems unless he builds boost of the start....but his is slow for 20psi on a larger t3/4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cuz on what road in america can u watch the boost gauge slam past 20 and have traction on street tires? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Any road and any gear in my car, so long as it isn't wet.

 

have you ever driven or rode in a boosted honda your friend's sundance does not compare 10.5 compression is too high for any street car granted it will be fun but your engine will not last long daily driven maybe 1-2yrs no matter who tunes it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so how much power u puttin out on that 20+ lbs? For some reason i dont think your puttin out that much power, cuz on what road in america can u watch the boost gauge slam past 20 and have traction on street tires? and what would be the point?? Just to say well.. i can boost 20 on pump gas?? I dont think most people need to boost 20+ lbs on the street, nor do they need to be driving around in drag radials just to get traction. There for i dont see the problem with 10:1 compression and 10 lbs of boost on the street, then going to the track droppin in some c16(like most guys do anyways) and boosting 20+lbs.

b16coupe,
Do not take the my first two sentences as a personal attack on your car, i used it as an example to try to get a point across that 20+lbs on the street is pointless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My boost gauge is on my A-pillar and it's easy to watch it through your peripheral vision, and I was datalogging the run so I looked at boost afterwards.

20 pounds of boost on 225 BFG's is quite controllable on the street, actually. My car is full weight and heavy. All stock steel body panels, full interior with leather GSR seats, a big heavy system with 2 Fusion Jonah Lomu 15's (the magnets ALONE on these subs weight 31 pounds), still has A/C and power steering, and I wasn't shaving any weight off by adding in the turbo kit, intercooler, and traction bars. More weight means it takes more horsepower to move the car to the same speed and times as a lighter car.

I still daily drive the car on normal street radials (Dunlop SP9000's) and I drove 600 miles over the weekend to go fishing with some friends, when you have 20 mile stretches of flat 3-lane highway with no traffic you get lots of chances to rip it open at WOT. Traction is a bit of an issue on real street radials, but atleast I have the power if I want to use it. 10.5:1 just sucks being limited to 13-14 psi on pump gas, your margin of error for the tuner is much tighter, one bad tank of gas and you're fucked and you can't run 87 octane in it if you're driving a long ways and want to save a few $$$ gas.

Barney, I totally disagree with you. I daily drove my 10.2:1 B16 for over a year running it hard on stock internals, and lots of ITR's have lasted that long with high compression.

Also, FWIW, my T3/T67 showed up at work this morning. Since externally it's basically identical to my T3/60-1 I'm going to use my lunch break to swap it over, and see how things go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10.5:1 just sucks being limited to 13-14 psi on pump gas, your margin of error for the tuner is much tighter, one bad tank of gas and you're fucked and you can't run 87 octane in it if you're driving a long ways and want to save a few $$$ gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is the biggest reason why any one should lower compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
one bad tank of gas and you're fucked and you can't run 87 octane in it if you're driving a long ways and want to save a few $$$ gas.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would never run 87 octane in a turbo car anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would never run 87 octane in a turbo car anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good for you. If you go on a 2000 mile roadtrip with 3 other people in the car when you have no intention of boosting you can easily save 30-40 bucks by running 87 octane instead of premium. Right now 87 is 88 cents Canadian per litre (about $2.50 US per gallon, for comparison) and premium is typically 20 cents a litre, so $1.08 Canadian per litre (or $3 US per gallon). I average about 15 kilometers per litre of gas, so on a 2000 mile (3219 KM) roadtrip I'm going to need about 215 litres of gas. I don't know about you, but running 87 octane and saving myself 40 bucks is well worth it to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Barney, I totally disagree with you. I daily drove my 10.2:1 B16 for over a year running it hard on stock internals, and lots of ITR's have lasted that long with high compression.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16coupe we agree to disagree then, your car lasted that long with good ole honda stock engine. I don't think any builder here can build a engine as good as the Honda factory sorry just my .02 cents. Built engines are cool but they don't last long 1-2 yrs daily driven just add in the fact that he wants 500hp and 10.5 to 1 compression 2 yrs top. If your only driving the car on the weekends then yes it will last a long time but everyday driving plan and simple no if these engines are so bullet proof why are so many people building engines ? I don't own a type r but my friend has one and after being turbo for almost 2 yrs guess what he needs a rebuild............... these are my opinions

 

If high compression was so good then why does every other factory turbocharged vehicle have somewhat low compression 8:1-9:1 not 10 or 10.5 ??????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I don't know about you, but running 87 octane and saving myself 40 bucks is well worth it to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Until you blow a $3000+ turbocharged engine using shitty gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Barney Ruble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think any builder here can build a engine as good as the Honda factory sorry just my .02 cents. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If your engine builder can't build an engine as good as the one from factory, you NEED a new builder.

 

So GENERALLY, how long should a properly well built engine last for when daily driven on the street, raced sometimes ? Considering proper tuning, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LeGeND4LiFe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So GENERALLY, how long should a properly well built engine last for when daily driven on the street, raced sometimes ? Considering proper tuning, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Too many variables to determine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Until you blow a $3000+ turbocharged engine using shitty gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. Unless you really suck at driving it's pretty god damn hard to accidentally hit boost. Takes all of 10 minutes to load the same map with a low boost cut, and swap out the wastegate spring for a .25 bar one, and then you can be extra safe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your engine builder can't build an engine as good as the one from factory, you NEED a new builder.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd like to see that.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Barney Ruble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'd like to see that.......</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the engine is built with the right parts, methods, tools, specs, and tolerances there is ABSOLUTELY NO reason it shouldn't be as good or BETTER than a factory Honda engine. If you can't build a better engine than what comes stock from Honda, why build?