<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTY-1HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it's roasts 4th gear too on street tires </TD></TR></TABLE>
I bet you thats fun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTY-1HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it's roasts 4th gear too on street tires </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostedb20EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I bet you thats fun </TD></TR></TABLE>

burning out&gt;going fast
traction FTL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIXTY-1HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's roasts 4th gear too on street tires </TD></TR></TABLE>To be quite honest, I've driven a friends car that would do that @ 100+ MPH. It's rather scary & don't care to do it again!
I'm building my next turbo motor to make around the 400-450 WHP range but that only @ high boost & on slicks. Running around on the street w/ 250-300 WHP on low boost is beyond enough to have a little fun w/.
260 WHP w/ my SC'd set up was absolutely retarded just trying to get traction all the way to 70 MPH @ part throttle on Falken Azenis street tires.
People can claim all this WHP & they may have it but, IMO what the freak'n use is it (especially on the street) when they neglect to show where they've spent any $$ on the suspension to handle it? I'll admit I only have Skunk2 lowering springs & stock ITR shocks & that was a part of my traction issue when I really need a nice set of Tein or Omni Power full dampers @ the least.

 

you can do whatever suspension you want to the car that aint gonna make it not spin
it might help you out the whole and wheel hop in 2nd but if the car makes power the car makes power IT WILL SPIN!!! I only said my car roasts 4th cuz it does on low boost and like i said STREET TIRES
if your wheels are spinnin you can go faster thats the way i look at it so if your spinnin it's a good thing.
but yes suspension is a must and a decent one too at that, i have the omni's on my car they are great for launching and all but car still spins.
if you think spinning 4th on the street is scary IMO spinning 3rd on 24" SLICKS down the track to 110 mph is scarier.

 

 

its not the fact that the itr pistons have higher compression that makes 'so called bad to boost' its more how the piston ring lands sit. they are higher up so if you go to run more boost you are going to have a higher chance of popping the motor.

a buddy of mine has a STOCK itr motor running DAILY at 389whp on 1 bar (14.7psi) he's been running on that motor for over a year now.

you can boost the c5 all you want. just make sure you have a good tuner who knows what he is doing. use a good engine management if you are going with a minor boost build (chrome, neptune, eCtune, uberdata ect.)

the advantage of having the c5 on boost than that of the c1 is you will have a much more responsive motor on the offboost period. the c1 will take a little bit longer to pick up. you also have the LSD in the stock tranny. and that tranny is just ****. the cams are absolutly godly for boost. ITR cams from (00-01) are ideal for boost for some odd reason.

either way you are going to have a fun car. c1 or c5. just for god sake get it tuned good and dont beat the **** out of it.

if you choose the gsr motor you will have a little bit left over money that you could use to buy pistons and rods or just a little bit better turbo kit (peakboost, full-race, neukin etc...)

do the build smart, and you wont have no problems siya hope that clears some things up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HT Chaplain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your going boost get the cheaper motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no ****, for the 4-5k its gonna cost to swap in a type r swap do yourself a favor and buy a ls short block, forged pistons/rods, dohc vtec oil/water pump, b16/gsr head, ls vtec kit, nice clutch, gsr tranny, type r cams, an aftermarket intake manifold/throttle body and then the real boosting fun can start

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FullRaceHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no ****, for the 4-5k its gonna cost to swap in a type r swap do yourself a favor and buy a ls short block, forged pistons/rods, dohc vtec oil/water pump, b16/gsr head, ls vtec kit, nice clutch, gsr tranny, type r cams, an aftermarket intake manifold/throttle body and then the real boosting fun can start </TD></TR></TABLE>

then he'll kill himself with the madd power of vtack