To boost or not to boost
#1
To boost or not to boost
Hey guys, recently bought an eg hatch with a d15b7 and i want more power. the car has new rings bearings valves and timing belt and i was debating weather to turbo this motor or just swap it entirely. Which would be best financially?
#2
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Re: To boost or not to boost
This is entirely up to opinion, and a decision that really only you can make. That said, you won't get any power out of a D series without boosting it (or spending a shitload of money to get less power than you would have gotten with boost anyway), and the D15's are an absolutely abysmally horrible platform to start with, so to answer your question...
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: To boost or not to boost
Now, this is assuming he is willing to DIY and if he doesn't have the necessary equipment (hoist, in particular) then he will obviously will have to be resourceful and see if a shop or friend or someone could help him out or lend him one. Or buy one lol
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#8
Re: To boost or not to boost
I've got 1k saved specifically for this car, I was just wondering what the best bang for my buck was. The motor was basically rebuilt and I'm wondering if I should boost it or just dump it off and find a b16a2 or b18b1 and keep those n/a
#9
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Re: To boost or not to boost
chances are you will buy something cheap that needs work and attempt to fix it with more cheap stuff until something breaks and you have to spend more money than you thought and then the cheap stuff fails requiring you to rethink your strategy. its a cycle of throat punches when you are working with essentially nothing and even asking to turbo. that means you will buy ebay crap, ebay clutch, junk injectors, a "chip" and go beat the hell out of it.
Yea. thats going to turn out GREAT!!
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: To boost or not to boost
1.Save up some more money (not like it's that hard lol)
2.Get a b18 (c or b, c obvi way more expensive but a lot better stock) and swap it (d engines suck)
3.Figure out a longer term plan for it
e.g Do you want to boost or go NA? Build the motor now or later? etc
4. You can always save up maybe .5-1k more AT THE VERY LEAST and go bargain shopping/ebay shopping, outsource what you can, and focus more piecing together the correct parts and getting it TUNED by a reputable tuner (hell even a street tuner could help you for way less)
this is of course after you probably hit up the FAQs and whatnot and study more about boosting and whatnot. I suppose you could still have a pretty fun d series boost in the low to mid 200whp range
#11
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Re: To boost or not to boost
Honestly you really do not have money to do a swap for 1k. The only B series you are going to find in good condition with a 1k budget is a B20/b18b with a b18b eating up almost all your budget. I am sure there are one offs but there is so much more to put into it than just buying a long block. There is getting the engine to you so there are costs with that than there is a transmission all the other little things like axles ECU etc. Forget swaps and turbos.
If you must go faster and there is no talking you out of it than CAI, headers back, and throw a 50 shot wet Nitrous kit on there. Thats going to be about the most power you are going to get out of it with such a limited budget.
my .02
If you must go faster and there is no talking you out of it than CAI, headers back, and throw a 50 shot wet Nitrous kit on there. Thats going to be about the most power you are going to get out of it with such a limited budget.
my .02
#12
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Re: To boost or not to boost
Well you're only going make around 200hp reliably on a stock d15, after that rods tend to break.
You coul easily do a junkyard setup with an hf manifold, adapter plate, sr or dsm t25, starion/evo intercooler, dsm bov, whatever intercooler piping you can hack together, walbro 255, dsm 450s, chipped p28 using Neptune, chrome, uberdata (throwback lol), eBay clutch, and a wideband. Of course you still need someone to tune it, which on average is about 400-500 on its own so your current budget might get all of the parts you need but the car wouldn't be able to be driven, at least not if you want the motor to stay alive.
If this is your only car then don't even think about doing anything to it... Swap, turbo, etc. nothing that could potentially lower the reliability of the car or make it completely unable to be driven. Even with a swap, which you're only going to get an LS b series or maybe a Y8/Z6 d series, you could run into issues with broken/missing parts, wiring problems, getting in over your head, and other things that could prevent you from completing the swap which would leave you without transportation.
The other thing is that when doing a swap where you don't know the mileage, condition of the engine, how long it has been sitting, and how the motor was treated it becomes basic maintenance and common sense to replace things before putting the motor in the car.
Such things as a new water pump, distributor cap and rotor, if in doubt an oil pump, rear main seal, front crank seal, oil pan gasket, oil pickup gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, slave cylinder, axle seals, and so forth.
Basically it's common sense when dealing with a swap of unknown condition to replace any normal maintenance items that suffer wear and tear and things that would be much harder to do with the motor in the car. The flip side is most of these basic maintenance items will tax out your budget in a hurry. You could just wing it and put the swap in like it is but you run a huge risk. Although you could gauge the condition of the motor by doing a compression and leak down test. That would tell you if the motor is even worth buying because if you buy a swap with ring or bearing issues having it rebuilt can get expensive, especially if you can't do most of the work yourself. This of course would increase the amount of downtime your car suffers.
What you need to take from our advice is don't mess with your car. All that 1k is going to do is lead you down a slippery slope that will ultimately cost more time and more importantly, a lot more money. Wait until you have a decent amount of money saved (typical amount for a reliable turbo build is a minimum of 3,000), a solid plan of what you want to do: I.E turbo the stock d15 (not worth building), swap a b series in the car, decide on boosting the stock motor, pick a power level, and purchase the appropriate parts after you've done all of the above. Then there's the issue of can you do the work yourself? If not then double the amount of money you need because labor isn't cheap at a shop that can do the work. Then there's still the expense of tuning the setup.
More importantly if this is your only means of transportation then save up enough money to buy a cheap reliable car before you tear down the one you have now.
You coul easily do a junkyard setup with an hf manifold, adapter plate, sr or dsm t25, starion/evo intercooler, dsm bov, whatever intercooler piping you can hack together, walbro 255, dsm 450s, chipped p28 using Neptune, chrome, uberdata (throwback lol), eBay clutch, and a wideband. Of course you still need someone to tune it, which on average is about 400-500 on its own so your current budget might get all of the parts you need but the car wouldn't be able to be driven, at least not if you want the motor to stay alive.
If this is your only car then don't even think about doing anything to it... Swap, turbo, etc. nothing that could potentially lower the reliability of the car or make it completely unable to be driven. Even with a swap, which you're only going to get an LS b series or maybe a Y8/Z6 d series, you could run into issues with broken/missing parts, wiring problems, getting in over your head, and other things that could prevent you from completing the swap which would leave you without transportation.
The other thing is that when doing a swap where you don't know the mileage, condition of the engine, how long it has been sitting, and how the motor was treated it becomes basic maintenance and common sense to replace things before putting the motor in the car.
Such things as a new water pump, distributor cap and rotor, if in doubt an oil pump, rear main seal, front crank seal, oil pan gasket, oil pickup gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, slave cylinder, axle seals, and so forth.
Basically it's common sense when dealing with a swap of unknown condition to replace any normal maintenance items that suffer wear and tear and things that would be much harder to do with the motor in the car. The flip side is most of these basic maintenance items will tax out your budget in a hurry. You could just wing it and put the swap in like it is but you run a huge risk. Although you could gauge the condition of the motor by doing a compression and leak down test. That would tell you if the motor is even worth buying because if you buy a swap with ring or bearing issues having it rebuilt can get expensive, especially if you can't do most of the work yourself. This of course would increase the amount of downtime your car suffers.
What you need to take from our advice is don't mess with your car. All that 1k is going to do is lead you down a slippery slope that will ultimately cost more time and more importantly, a lot more money. Wait until you have a decent amount of money saved (typical amount for a reliable turbo build is a minimum of 3,000), a solid plan of what you want to do: I.E turbo the stock d15 (not worth building), swap a b series in the car, decide on boosting the stock motor, pick a power level, and purchase the appropriate parts after you've done all of the above. Then there's the issue of can you do the work yourself? If not then double the amount of money you need because labor isn't cheap at a shop that can do the work. Then there's still the expense of tuning the setup.
More importantly if this is your only means of transportation then save up enough money to buy a cheap reliable car before you tear down the one you have now.
#14
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Re: To boost or not to boost
I have 5 sitting in the driveway, and I want at least 2 more that I know of at the moment plus there's the motorcycle sitting in the other corner of my room... I think I have a problem lol
#15
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#18
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Re: To boost or not to boost
I think it was the n word, that's one of the few words the site filters out.
I'm wondering where the OP went to though. I think we all gave him solid accurate advice. I'll be interested to see what his reply is
I'm wondering where the OP went to though. I think we all gave him solid accurate advice. I'll be interested to see what his reply is
#19
Re: To boost or not to boost
I'm going to take the advise and invest the money in other things. My neighbor has a pair of tien coils he's selling me for 200 and I'm getting the whole car resprayed by a Nissan painter here in town for 500. Once I get those I'm going to find a set of used wheels to finish it off and make the car look complete till I can afford motor work. I was thinking 15"Konig candy with Honda center caps
#21
Re: To boost or not to boost
I do, he totaled his eg and bought a rsx so he had them left over. Looking how much tiens are it seems like a good deal. http://www.carolinahondas.com/776378415-post1.html Going for this look kind of. Just different color wheels, different lip, and maybe a different spoiler.
#22
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Re: To boost or not to boost
Boost it. You can boost your b7 if you take your time and shop wisely. Pick up a HF manifold and adapter with a OEM turbo like a 14b, t25, 13g etc, pick up some oil lines and tap your pan. Have your local shop bend you a downpipe. Get yourself an eBay intercooler kit or pick up a smic from a DSM and use . a set of 450cc DSM injectors and chip your ecu. Lastly pay someone to street tune your set up.
#25
Re: To boost or not to boost
Nah, born and raised in New Mexico. When I was looking at wheels I found that picture and it was the same color car and wheels I wanna get for my hatch.