I'm thinking about going boost by gear because I already have all the components (mac boost solenoid, ecu prepped for A11 output).

I was looking at this setup guide:



This doesn't mention anything about the bottom wastegate port, I'm assuming you just hook it up to another turbo pressure source?

 

Also, is bbg worth doing on a street car with 320whp?

 

Boost By Gear, is nice on all turbo applications. You don't want to run 20 lbs through first and second and have no traction until third. Something like 6 lbs until you reach 20-30 mph, then 10-12 lbs until like 50-60, and so on.

 

I wouldnt worry about boost by gear with 320whp. Good tires and some driving skill should put most of those ponies to use.

 

https://www.hondata.com/help/smanage...stallation.htm

When I set up bbg on my last eg hatch I followed the instructions linked above. I personally love bbg, I had mine setup to were I could pin it in any great including first and dead hook. First gear was 6psi (with 7 degrees of gear based ignition retard), 2nd was ~12psi, 3rd ~18psi, and 4th 21psi. Made for a very fun street car. My car was making about 385whp based on my trap speed and weight.

 

With good tires, half throttle dosent cut it?

 

Not every light is a drag race at that level.

People need to learn to work these cars without it, to work better WITH it. Especially street cars.

No one does full load of boost in 1st anyway. Not enough exhaust energy.. (even though they may spin tyres).

User your for & brain first..

 

the bottoms wg port should go to a t with one end going to vac/boost source and the other to #1 port on the solenoid

 

did you use any timing retard in 2nd or 3rd?

 

Nope it wasn't needed. 6psi in first would spin bad before pulling timing in first gear only. Neptune has gear based ignition compensation, I'm pretty sure s300 has it as well. That hatch I had would run low 12s all day long on 205/50-15 neogens with 2.0 60ft times.

 

it does Just havent had time to play with that aspect quite yet, Still finishing up street tune. "tuner" had left a mess with fuel maps intersecting eachother, high/rpms' and full boost was pretty good/safe but didnt do so well at low boost and part throttle conditions.

I was thinking around 2 degrees in second which would allow me to run higher boost

 

I wouldn't pull timing in second unless you are already on wg pressure and you are still having traction issues. Just run 0% wg duty cycle in 2nd and see if that works first before messing with timing.

Honestly pulling timing is probably not the best solution, but I was only doing it in first witch only lasted a couple seconds. I wouldn't recommend it in higher gears were high load is held for a longer period of time.

 

Gotcha, I dont have traction issues in any gear with my 5 PSI spring. 7 psi spring was mostly just problems in first

 

IMO boost by gear is always an advantage. Fine tuning power in lower gears in something nice to have plus you can setup quick spool and bring on torque earlier in the rev range.

 

do you actually use the "quick spool" function or just manually edit tables?

 

USE IT OR LOOSE IT RIGHT?
I SUGGEST TRY IT AND SEE IF IT FIT YOUR DRIVING STYLE
BOOST BY GEAR NOT FOR EVERYONE, BUT IS
DEFINATELTY SMASHIN' WHEN TUNED RIGHT

MOST IMPORTANT IS WHAT KIND OF DRIVING YOU DOING?


DRAG OR CANYON IS BIG DIFFERENCE IN CONSIDERATION

 

Dont need it with some good tires and throttle control at that power level. Depends on application.

 

Exactly my point in post 6. However the quick spool feature sounds interesting.

 

It's Hondata's attempt to perform a feature that other traditional Japanese controllers have done for over 20 years, and at the risk of digging up old bones, uses faster actuating solenoids to perform it. Instead of the controller's brain as the access point, it uses a laptop, and (IMHO) takes much longer to integrate because it's based strictly on duty cycle with timing, and not just target pressure alone.

But give it a try, I'm sure you'll like it.

 

"driver mod" can be applied when using BBG or not, so its still helpful. I dont need 17lbs in 2nd or 3rd. "quickspool" helps to keep wastegate completely closed right up until your target boost, this way your wastgate is not partially open when trying to build boost

 

I could care less about the bbg feature. Im more interested in the quick spool feature. Ive been looking up on it all day, and still kinda stumped. Some soleniods are better than others, one wire goes to a11. Another wire to a12. All the soleniods are gona be stupid expensive. Location may cause sensitivity issues.

How bout the ecu. Does that need to be prepped. Or more chips added to it.

Whats the over all cost. Possible, negative effects.

 

your using hondata right? When I purchased the ecu I made sure it came with the "pwm kit" its only like $15 but requires soldering (mine was preinstalled OEM ECU + Hondata v3 I think my total cost was 600-650). and the "mac" valve I got was about $45.

You can use different ecu out puts such as a11 or a12 and configure that within the software

If you dont care about BBG theres other options that have a "gain" feature

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...llers-3210811/

 

Yea i already read that thread of arguing. Id continue running my hallman mbc or a ebc. Im sure bbg has its benefits.

Hondata s300 v2


Threadjack awareness week lol

 

lol pretty sure the hallman is doing the same thing as hondata quick spool. Thats what was recommended to me from shodan over private messages couple years ago

 

I use the quick spool on my street car. When I was running s300 in my drag car I manipulated boost with tables only.