foxdie

Greetings, so I have been to multiple web sites that sell these items, not to mention a plethora of ebay auctions, and sadly not only do the images vary from site to site, but more importantly, the compatible vehicles listing is different for the same type on different sites!

Luckily at least the images included on Blox's site so I know I can trust theirs to be correct, but they don't have the compatibility listed for each type (yeah, real good sign of quality from the company eh? heh).

Anyway I have a "94-2001 Integra" (1998, LS to be specific I believe).

Please let me know if you yourself actually have the item and have successfully utilized it or know from some other reputable source which Type I need (like A,B, or C, etc) so that I may order one of these.

Also I keep hearding about aquarium check valves which are surely much cheaper. If I am running 10lbs or less of boost and won't be increasing that for many years, more likely never, is this an as/almost as reliable alternative to the missing link style bypass valves? What about the X BAR devices? (X being a variable of some number).

Yes I have an FMU, yes it is not the best technology nor most reliable solution available, no I did not set this car up, yes it was purchased already "hooked up", no I am not going to redo the turbo setup very soon, no it is not worth the cost of getting Hondata, etc due to the value of the vehicle, yes I would appreciate it if you didn't tell me it doesn't matter what type valve I use and that my car will blow up anyway the second I turn the key or that I don't give a **** about my car obviously and might as well just put dynamite in it and blow it up now, or I deserve to be spit on for allowing an FMU-using vehicle to sit in my driveway. Thank you to those who are here to answer my specific question and not try and teach me how to properly setup a turbo vehicle. I appreciate your assistance.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Take all that **** off, put a set of injectors in it as well as a chipped ecu and have it tuned
If a couple hundred dollars isn't worth it, sell the car and buy a Prius because clearly this isn't the hobby for you. Running a turbo car with that old old school **** is pointless nowadays when proper engine management is cheaper than a car payment

Injectors - DSM 450s, these can found for 50-75 bucks
Injector box - free if you scour a car graveyard or know a DSM Buddy, or expect around 25 bucks
Chipped ecu - if you know where to look you can get them for 125-175
You'll also need a bigger fuel pump (you really already should have one, so

walbro255 - 75 bucks
Tune? Depends who you're close to and how much tuning is needed

Do it the right way or don't bother doing it.

inspector01

Wait, how did a post from 2004 get dated 2013?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

And how did it wind up on the first page with no reply (until I did)
Maybe someone posted then ninja deleted?

92cxyd

That makes no sense the OP registered last year.

doctorake

Clearly a post from 2004

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Ohhh he means the map bypass lololololololol

OneBadTurboCRV

The aquarium check valves will work fine. Put at least 3 of them in a row with "T" fittings between the MAP sensor and intake. If the MAP still sees boost add more. You will need to block off the port that the MAP sensor originally sat on. The easiest way is just to get a second map sensor from a junk yard and use it as a plug for the throttle body.

I am curious though, why do you need to do this if the car is already setup? You also should have a AFC to fully utilize the FMU setup. A fuel pump upgrade to a Walbro 255 would be wise as well. Old school works just fine, you just have to be more careful and won't get as much horsepower as an EMS.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Or fuel mileage, plus if you have a catted exhaust you'll cook the converter to powder.
It's also hard on injectors (using an fmu) because the injector was never designed to even see that kind of rail pressure.

OneBadTurboCRV

This is all true, but the OP clearly isn't concerned with failure according to his first post.

foxdie

OneBadTurboCRV thank you for being the only person on here who was able to contain their pride or childish need to point out the obvious better and more appropriate way to do this, yet not what I asked about...

Thanks for your response, it was a great and appropriate response to what I asked about.

We all know the right way to do this... if for some reason someone asks about doing something in what you believe is the wrong way, and goes as far as specifically asking not to have goons like you people making snide comments, then please keep your inappropriate garbage out of the thread.

A question was asked, if you cannot answer it, move along. Giving advice is great, but when the post is literally written asking to please not tell me how im an idiot and my car is going to blow up and just answer the question i asked, it just makes you a ***** for acting like a tool.

Everyone on this board who has had a jack@ss tell them what they are doing is ghetto or stupid when they already know it's not the optimal way and are trying to get by for a month or two until they can make things better, or better yet it's not of your business why they're choosing to do it that way. IF YOU CANNOT ANSWER THE QUESTION STAY OUT OF THE THREAD. You all knew ahead of time I was aware of the things you would tell me, but still couldn't help bash people on the internet to feel cool... No further response needed and I'm not gonna reply to more hate-posts.

Thanks again OneBadTurboCRV for both understanding that there is a better way yet just answering the question that was asked. It means a lot.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

How many times are we going to have to explain to you that limp mode wont go away as long as your MAP sensor and your ECU is trying to read boost. You have no boost columns on your factory tune, so it throws a code for high MAP voltage. The stock tune and ECU is not setup for positive manifold pressure. Regardless of what FMU you want to run.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Didn't they used to get around that with a Missing Link?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I was simply stating how cheap it was to do if properly... but if you're determined.. I'll help you

The aquarium check valves can be very sensitive, hook one up wrong, have too many or too few, etc and it will allow stock map and ecu to see the tiniest amount of positive pressure and the car freaks out ans goes into limo mode... the missing link/ map bypass is much easier, simple to use, looks better under hood and doesn't have the issues of the check valves, like hoses popping off.

The kind you require is the Type A

You can get it here from a reputable dealer for 32 + shipping/handling (unsure about sales tax)
https://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/view...idproduct=1920

Or eBay and pay 32 plus free shipping and no tax, numerous sellers with various colors available

http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com/searc...s+valve+type+a

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

And all everyone is trying to say is you can't tune this type of setup, you're simply making the stock ecu not see positive pressure at the map sensor... and you're jacking up fuel pressures to compensate for added boost pressure... you have no control over timing (which can be dangerously high on an fmu car)

With the amount of tuning options available, you can find a good, quality used chipped ecu for nothing, I paid 60 for my last one... then add a set of injectors, DSM 450s can be had for 50 bucks. A larger fuel pump, walbro 255s are very affordable.. and then find someone to tune it

The car will run much smoother, make more power and have better economy... not to mention reliability over the option you're choosing

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

you dont even need to use a DSM injector/box setup, you can get OBD1 high impedance injectors for like 150 bucks, thats exactly what im using. No box required.

http://www.osidetiger.com/pages/11mm.aspx

93h2beg

why does everyone talk about a resister box? I went to radio shack bought 4 heavy duty 10ohm resisters and wired them in, it took maybe 1/2 an hour and you cant even see them. I bought the injectors for 75 spent 5 on the resisters and had the heat shrink and solder already. Great job and very cheap.

But keep us posted on what you decide to do, and how it works! good luck.

doctorake

Post a how to with pics????

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Resistor boxes are a thing of the past, i dont understand why they are even suggested for ANYTHING anymore.

foxdie

Zero times. The entire reason for this very thread is based upon that understanding and it is why I am trying to prevent my MAP sensor and ECU from reading boost. Try again.

foxdie

Yah that's what this thread is about, figuring out which type I need from Blox.

foxdie

Sweet thanks so much.

Look if I was running 10lbs of boost or planning to run more, wanted my car to last more than 5 years, had a few hundred dollars to spend, I would do this how everyone knows and tells me I should.

I only plan to run this with open wastegate at around 7lbs of boost max ever. It has a walbro 255 pump installed purchased new by me, an FMU, brand new full cat-back exhaust system, brand new downpipe, brand new tubular manifold, brand new catalytic convertor with new o2 sensors, and everything is runnin nicely, other than the soon to be fixed check engine light. Just got brand new ngk iridium shock plugs installed and a full synthetic oil change. Honda brand coolant, and all other fluids are maintained and topped off. I really think I am taking good care of this car, and I definitely plan on doing a full proper ECU tune as soon as I get a job in the coming weeks or after a few months.
Right now, I totaled my car and could barely afford anything decent and this is the car I could get that seemed the best value. I truly do understand what you are all saying, how I cannot tune it this way, etc. I plan on doing it right eventually when I can but I am doing what I can with what options and opportunities life has presented me with currently to get by. Trust me that I am doing what I believe is the best course of action for the time being.

Also, I truly believe with the vast amount of anecdotal evidence I have read over the past months from dozens of various people across varous forums that I really should be able to run my car at 7lbs or so max boost with an FMU and a walbro 255 fuel pump and an FMU rather reliably. I don't beat on the car, rarely get on the gas much or push it into boost, and take care of it. I just can't believe that all these people are lying when they say they are running this exact setup for years without issues and in the meantime I am not seeing any horror stories with such a setup to deter me form this temporary solution.

foxdie

Just ordered:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLOX-MAP-BYP...a816aa&vxp=mtr

Thanks everyone, this thread can be closed. My question has been kindly answered and my problem solved thanks to a helpful forum member.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

In theory an FMU can deliver the extra fuel needed but how will you verify this? How do you know how much to adjust it? Do you have a wideband? If not, then that is a huge mistake.

What are you going to do about ignition? Simply retard the distributor? Again theoretically possible but how will you know how much to do? And overall off boost performance will suffer from that approach.

Both methods are very crude tuning methods and have been abandoned years ago for much more precise ECU tuning.
For the money spent on the FMU and MAP valve you can chip an OBD1 ecu and start tuning the proper way.