Well as some of you know..i blewup my engine in my turbo hatch last week. Two days before i was supposted to goto california with jenni (civichatchgurl). So jenni and i swapped a stock engine into the hatch so we could get there.

Here is some pictures of what is left of the engine....
http://www.tiora.net/~liam/pix/?path...1-ENGINE-BLOWN

Anyways...at least i have a working car.

But i thoght i would share my new plans with you all...see what you thought.

I am tring to find a 92-95 civic hatch (black, dont care what model) which i will swap all my race parts over to. In the process i will return much of my current civic si to stock so i can have a nice car to get to work and around town (ie it has a/c, p/s, two 12" subs, etc etc)

The new black wonder, as i call it, i am planning the following mods..

92-95 EG hatch
ITR dash conversion (already have)
15" Black spoon rims (or clones dont really care..just has to be black)
B20B with my old turbo kit (custom t3/t4)
LS tranny
Hondata stage 4 ECU (no more of these ECU hacks for me)
Stripped interior with only a dash and two race seats

I am going to keep the b20b stock for a while, then once i have saved up some more money i will do a crvtec conversion and built the bottom end.

So thats the plans....what do you all think? Sound good? Suggestions? I am not sure about the b20b deal though...what do you all think about it? Am i better off with a b18c1 or b18b....which i can sleeve to the 84mm piston size.

liam

ps. If anybody is selling a black (color doesnt matter *that* much) 92-95 civic hatch...please email me. liam@tiora.net I am having a hard time finding one.


[Modified by liam821, 2:00 AM 8/10/2001]

 

I have a black 92 Si HB. I'm not too far from you either, I'm only in Omaha.


[Modified by 92CivicSiR, 9:47 AM 8/10/2001]

 

what happened to th motor (the pics were kinda blurry)? how much were you boosting and on what motor? -C

 

Ah Liam - I see youre ready to step over to the "Big Bore" side
Make sure you dont go too crazy with the boost..probably 7-8 psi with the B20Bs 9.2:1 CR should be good.

TypeC: I believe he was running 18 psi on a built (sleeved, rods,pistons) D16 block. One of teh vacuum lines popped off and the FMU stopped providing fuel.
Thats why he's gonna do it right the seconf time around and use a Hondata.

 

maybe you should just turn your existing car into the project and just buy another car for daily driving.

figure you'll spend at least another $5k+++ on the new hatch. you could buy a nice accord or something to roll around with to work and back.

 

well he blew the vacume hose @ full boost @ 16-17psi and it detinated really bad. so he killed the pistons (peices missing could see the ring) and the cylinder walls were scratched up pretty bad. he was boosting 16-17psi on a somewhat built d16.. hope that answers ur questions........ that is all i know to my knowledge!

 

damn, running an FMU at that much boost?

 

sad to hear the news.. i know how you feel, i'm on my 3rd D16Y8 engine already, although I also have a proper ECU doing the fuel work.. no more of this FMU **** seriously, when you boost over 1 bar, a proper ECU is the only way to go..

 

16-17psi on a fmu, dont see many ppl doing that nowadays...

 

Ya it was pretty scary..but it worked great until i blew that stupid vacuum line. I am going to do the hondata deal now. No more stupid fmu's.

So does the b20 sound like a good deal? Or should i go for a sleeved b18. I was thinking b20 just for the "wow" factor.

liam

 

Sleeved B18 will be stronger. Sleeve it with 84.5mm sleeves

 

do you know if you can sleeve a b20 block? If i recall nobody is doing that.

liam

 

I think you can...but whats the point?

If you get a B18B block and sleeve it to 84mm then you have the same displacment of teh B20..and ALOT cheaper.

 

If only you had them handy "Zip Ties"

 

You can sleeve a B20, but they have to buttress the sleeves together and its expensive....also weakens them. Secondly, the B20 in 2.0Liter Form has a shitty *** R\S Ratio, and your gonna push a piston through your already thin cylinder walls. Destroking the B20 w\ a B17a crank takes all the fun outta things and you lose all your torque...It turns it into a 1.8 LIter B16a, which you can get yourself by boreing a B16a to 84.5mm or even 85mm on the B16a.

B20 is the **** for NA, or for a pre-built high cc block...Dont bother buildong one up, if your gonna go all out, get a GSR or something, then you dont hafta deal with external oil lines and ish...

Suprdave

 

a resleeved LS is a B20. Everything is the same but one is resleeved. As long as you keep the rpm like a LS. If u want to rev higher than a B17 crank would be more ideal.


[Modified by Ray, 3:34 AM 8/11/2001]


[Modified by Ray, 3:35 AM 8/11/2001]

 

what kind of blockguard did you have in there?