How much money will it take to get a 1988 CRX HF into the 10's and make it drivable and reliable?

Thanks.


Will this do it?

Longblock:
b18c

Block work: $3000
* Golden Eagle Iron Ductile Sleeves (84.5mm)
* Eagle H-beam Rods
* JE Forged 84.5mm pistons
* Bore, Hone, Hot tank, Deck
* Balanced Crank
* Polished Crank
* All new Bearings & Thrusts
* All new seals, and Oil pan Gasket
* New VTEC oil pump
* New VTEC water pump
* ARP Head studs

Head Work: $1500
* Portflow head porting
* Portflow dual valve springs
* Portflow Ti retainers
* Ferrea stainless steel valves
* new valve seals
* hot tank
* resurfaced

Turbo kit: $2,600
* Garrett 60-1 t3/to4 .82 trim
* Large front mount intercooler
* Tial wastegate 40mm
* Rev Hard turbo manifold
* 3.0 inch stainless downpipe
* Tial BOV
* stainless oil line kit
* intercooler piping
* T clamps

Misc Parts: $400
* HASports Mount kit

Induction: $300
* JG Intake manifold

Fuel System: $500
* MSD 1000cc Injectors
* Areomotive fpr
* Bosch Fuel Pump
* Resistor Box

Exhaust: $360
* 3.0" Test pipe
* 3.0" Catback

Drivetrain: $2300
* Integra LS Transmission *Re-worked*
* Clutchmaster stage V clutch
* Driveshaft Shop axles
* Quaife LSD

Electronics: $700
* Hondata s100b Engine Management
* Turbo XS Boost controller
* GReddy Turbo Timer

Suspension: $600
* Ground control Drag Coilovers.
* Tokico 5-way adj. shocks

Wheels & Tires: $500
* Lenso 13x7 Drag wheels.
* 24x8.5x13 Mickey Thompson Slicks


Total Price - $12,900

 

 

Are they hiring at your workplace? I can be the bitch that brings out the coffee.

That pricetag hurts to look at. It would be killer though.

 

I think u could do it ALOT cheaper then that.

 

i dunno... the little things always add up...
probably going to want to upgrade brakes...

for most tracks 10's will require a cage too...
of course you can always just make 1 pass before they kick you out


and is this a street car? as in daily driver? or weekend driver?



[Modified by Ruckus138, 1:02 AM 2/2/2003]

 

That's less than mine is going to cost. I got good deals on some of the stuff, but I'm not going to use Darton. Exospeed here I come.

 

Are you going to be doing the install and tuning yourself? If not then you have to look at those prices too.

 

driveable, reliable, and tens?
I think that you should pic one...


Rob

 

Yes the work and tuning is free.

But that's the point. Can you do all three?

That's why the motor is built like it is and the drivetrain is top notch.

 

street car/weekend driver

 

with the money spent on this project, I would junk the eagle rods and get some crower or pauters.

 

Since you have afast street car. Can this be done? Does this sound realistic?

 

It can be done, but reliablilty is always an issue when you want 400+hp. I personally wouldnt want a 400hp car as my daily driver. there is always going to be small problems here or there that will keep you from getting to work, school, here or there.

 

This is more of a weekend/street car.

 

Note that price without the car itself, and also without a $1000 rollcage. and anopther $500 or so for meticulous things and spare money , expensive sport

 

ditto....you hit it right on the spot

 

While this is true, if you overbuild everything then i dont see a problem. I am shooting for around 400whp on pump gas, and 500+whp on race gas. I plan on driving my car, not letting it sit for months like it has for the past year on and off. All the annoying little problems with the car have been written down in a note book, along with any problems i have read here on this board. I have taken dramatic steps to prevent everything/anything from breaking/malfunctioning. Basically i have eliminated all the stuff that could potentially cause me problems with my car including unnecessary electronics, water injection, air/liquid intercooler idea, etc. If you keep everything very simple, and as much oem parts as possible reliablity should stay intact. I will see how everything holds up, if not i have a crazy all motor set-up waiting to be dropped in.

 

here is something i saw in someones signature before. i got a kick out of it. it is very ture.

Reliable and cheap=not fast
Cheap and fast = not reliable
reliable and fast= not cheap

 

I understand where you are coming from but the fact still remains that no matter how much you spend and how little or how much power you plan to make iot will never be reliable 100%. yes, there are ways to prevent failures but if you plan to build any car to make 400+whp you will be catching rides to work more then you like. I dont care who assembles and builds the car. you will have some sort of failure, whether it be oil pump,water pump,fuel pump,injector, turbo,headgasket,oil leak, etc.. that will put the car out of commission. i would like to say that my car was a reliable 550+hp car but the fact remains that it was reliable enough for me to come out and race on the weekends and get to work every now and then but it never would have gotten me to a 9-5 job every week. My opinion is always have a daily driver and a race car/weekend warrior unless you plan on bolting on a greddy kit and heading off to work.

 

Reliable, fast, cheap. Pick two.

I have invested alot of time and money into making my new set-up very reliable. Hopefully it will pay off.

 

Very true... Will $13,000 be enough?

 

lose the LS tranny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Lol I used to have that in my sig..

Are you remembering the prices for the actual tranny and head? and block? it's gonna cost alot more then that.. Wait til all the retarded little things add up. AN fittings alone are like 300-400 dollars when you do fuel system stuff, and a few other places...

I guarantee that you'll spend atleast 5000 more than what's there to get that setup running...if it will run 10's that's a different story, i'd say hell yeah. But you gotta remember cages, and suspension, and parts breaking, etc etc etc



[Modified by MaxBoost, 10:01 PM 2/2/2003]

 

i think people should work on 225whp, then 330 whp then 400 plus. some poeple have unrealistic goals at first, unless you have the money, but most poeple cant order 10k of stuff at one time to build a 10 sec car

 

i thought it was...

but it wasn't