Hey guys, I ordered the summit battery re-route kit so I would be able to have the battery in my trunk and mount my T-1 racing catch can (looks awesome btw) where the battery is now... My question is, even with the kit, how did some of you guys do this?

Do I need to drill through my firewall and run the positive cable through the cabin?

What is the quickest, easiest way you have experience?

I'd rather not go drilling my car to perform this procedure but if I have no choice, then I have no choice haha

 

i would like to see some setup too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, I ordered the summit battery re-route kit so I would be able to have the battery in my trunk and mount my T-1 racing catch can (looks awesome btw) where the battery is now... My question is, even with the kit, how did some of you guys do this?

Do I need to drill through my firewall and run the positive cable through the cabin?

What is the quickest, easiest way you have experience?

I'd rather not go drilling my car to perform this procedure but if I have no choice, then I have no choice haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
i ran my wires thru a hole that was all ready there in the middle of the firewall where i also relocated where my wires for the wiring harness to... i'm sure there are current holes on the firewall you can use

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i ran my wires thru a hole that was all ready there in the middle of the firewall where i also relocated where my wires for the wiring harness to... i'm sure there are current holes on the firewall you can use</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did the same thing. They came through in the passanger floor and I routed them through the door jam like a stereo amp install. I snaped a picture of my battery in the trunk (ill post it in a few). I had the wires come out the passanger rear wheel well. Put a small grommet in there so it looks nice and clean. Odyssey battery in the trunk.

 

Sorry picture is huge. It isn't secured just yet. I've got a model specific mount on order. I went ahead and ran a relay/cable to my fuel pump, it really woke it up.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2105963

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd rather not go drilling my car to perform this procedure but if I have no choice, then I have no choice haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

To do it right you need to drill in the back trunk area for the batter bolts, and for the vent tubes.

 

You are going to have to drill in the trunk to bolt down the battery but if you get a odyssey/sealed battery you don't have to worry about venting it.

 

I have the Mr.Gasket kit, used the supplied J-Bolts and drilled 2 holes in the spare tire well and hooked them in there, and then had them welded in. I ran the wire through a small hole in the firewall, along with my oil press, wideband and some other things, the hole is below and to the left of the OEM fuel filter.

I was going through the NHRA rulebook the other day, I am running a Yellow Top Optima, does this mean I do not need to run a sealed battery box with a vent tube to pass tech?

 

Pretty sure NHRA requires you to have a battery box no matter what type of battery you have.

 

awesome. I didn't know that whole was big enough to run all those wires through. I will probably get a sealed batter so I dont have to run vent tubes. However I guess I still need to figure out what to do about battery mount bolts in the trunk

Also, what/where did you attach the ground (negative) wire?

 

whats the best way to put in the switch, without relocating the battery, because at this point im not interested in relocating my battery.

 

what switch are you talking about? A kill switch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the best way to put in the switch, without relocating the battery, because at this point im not interested in relocating my battery. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what switch are you talking about? A kill switch? </TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2205815

this is how i did mine: maz kill switch. thats if next to the battery . cable goes out the back of the car.

all you guys relocating your batteries, to pass tech you WILL need a kill switch IF IT IS NOT IN THE STOCK LOCATION.



this is another i did, the switch is in the glove box, but same principal:

 

With a trunk-mounted battery, NHRA rules stipulate that it needs a kill switch, and that kill switch MUST be accessable from outside. Poping a latch to reach it is RARELY acceptable. If you find a tech that allows it, please convince him to move to Illinois and start work at the Great Lakes Dragaway. There are a few more rules (vent, batt box, cabin divider, etc), so go look it up. Its been posted before.

Also, from what I've seen, basicly all tegs/civics have a spare hole or 2 in the firewall, even if you have AC. Its usually ~1" wide and has a rubber gromet in it, between the battery and heater hoses. I cut a hole in the rubber, then pushed my #1/0 Hypalon welding cable through it. i ran it under my carpet, bellow the rear seat, then to the battery, which I grounded at the spot for the spare wheel.

 

I was under the impression the kill switch must be accessed from outside the vehicle also.

 

the actuation for that one is still outside. thats what they are worried about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what switch are you talking about? A kill switch? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah putting a kill switch on the back of the car without relocating the battery. Boti rules say relocate after 9.99 or 135, though i may not race boti except maybe once this year, i get the feeling NDRS will be about the same.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah putting a kill switch on the back of the car without relocating the battery. Boti rules say relocate after 9.99 or 135, though i may not race boti except maybe once this year, i get the feeling NDRS will be about the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats not a ndrs rule, thats a general NHRA rule. that one we know, 9.99 or 135 you need a kill switch relocated or not. (not to go off topic, but the general rules arent the ones we are waiting for. it is the class specific rules. that rule pertains to any car with a relocated batt or 9.99 135.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats not a ndrs rule, thats a general NHRA rule. that one we know, 9.99 or 135 you need a kill switch relocated or not. (not to go off topic, but the general rules arent the ones we are waiting for. it is the class specific rules. that rule pertains to any car with a relocated batt or 9.99 135.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i knew that it was a GENERAL NHRA rule for relocation but i did not know that it was a rule if you go a certain speed.

I guess now im trying to figure out the best way to wire this up since im about to add one. Battery is in stock location, anybody got a diagram?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well i knew that it was a GENERAL NHRA rule for relocation but i did not know that it was a rule if you go a certain speed.

I guess now im trying to figure out the best way to wire this up since im about to add one. Battery is in stock location, anybody got a diagram?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

switch has 2 pins

pin one- battery and wire From alternator.
pin two- starter, and wire to the fuse box

if you need a b+ for anything also, you can tap it on pin 2.

 

where did you all mount your negative to?

 

batt to chassis
batt to trans
chassis to engine

 

ok yea I was just going to bolt it down somewhere in the trunk haha.

Also, I really don't want to drill for those vent tubes, so which battery do you recommend I run? Keep in mind it might be a 500-650whp car depending on which gas I run, but its not a all out drag car. I keep the AC and PS and full interior haha so I want to do this clean.

 

just curious.....why do you have to have a breather line from the battery box if your battery isn't like a sealed racing battery?