89hatchySI

ok fisrt of all ive been reading alot about the specs and what not on the b20's i am going to go get my long block this week from a importer but just want to get some advice before i do..

my set up is pretty simple..
B16 vtec head
b16 cable tranny

my goal is to eventually BOOST it but for now just want a good running b20 vtec swap .

My only question is what is the best way to go do i get the higher compression b20b or stick with the 8-8-1 compression since im gonna boost later?

please dont flame me!!! LOL

thanks

KINGVEM^^ED6

iTrader: (1)

Sleeve it build it hi comp turbo kill errrrrryone

K20AllMotorEF8

Just go hi comp all motor ....I'm running b20b block and a Gsr head 12:5.1 comp pistons 450cc injectors and twm Itb's and im doin mid 10's at the track

OneBadTurboCRV

1/8 mile?

If you plan to boost on stock sleeves then leave it lower compression. Reason being, there is more room for error when tuning - these cylinder walls CAN'T handle detonation at all.

If you are going to sleeve it, then go higher compression than <9:1... You want to at least be in the 9.5:1-10:1 range preferably.

How to build a "reliable" LS/VTEC - search around, but you can start by reading this...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

As far as what you should do - It's your time, money, and vehicle - do what you want, it's your life.

crvtectim

Got any time slips or vids to back up your claims?

89hatchySI

[QUOTE=K20AllMotorEF8;46851496]Just go hi comp all motor ....I'm running b20b block and a Gsr head 12:5.1 comp pistons 450cc injectors and twm Itb's and im doin mid 10's at the track[/QUOTE


The time Ur doing at the track is for a 1/4 or 1/8 mile?

89hatchySI

Thanks guys for the help....

I think I'm gonna go with the higher compression b20b and when I'm ready to boost ill just build it from I read and see boosting on stock is too risky ...

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

What kind of power goals are you looking at when you boost??

89hatchySI

I want to be around 300 HP

syobwoc sallad

all that money to go turbo for 300hp is kinda pointless...get some 12:1 compression pistons, springs, retainers, pro 1s (wouldnt be my choice), nice IM and tune.youll def. break 200

crvtectim

300whp in an EF Hatch for the street is far from "kinda pointless" and will wax most other street cars without breaking a sweat lol! Add up the parts you just listed plus the cost of machine work and you should see that for the 200whp, the cost to benefit ratio you proposed is kinda pointless when the op could easily make 350whp on a healthy, stock block B-Series (any of them) with the help of ARP hardware, boost, and proper tuning.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Lol

89hatchySI

Ok you really didn't make sence because first I didn't list any parts to my build except for the head and tranny... I am gonna boost and build it meaning hardware and performance parts necessary to get a reliable engine ..

You contradict your self by sayin its pointless to have 300 HP in an EF but then say to boost and do 350

But what ever thanks for the info...

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

the sleeves are not weak, it has a thicker sleeve that both LS and B18C engines, it is a monosleeve, it makes it prone to cracking the higher you rev it, keep it under 7500rpm and have it tuned well and all is good.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Prone to cracking? Then wouldn't that be the definition of weak? Sounds like a weak point to me.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

when you apply a load to a sleeve that is not designed for that kind of load, yes it will fail, as far as its resistance to power, it has been proven time and time again that they handle high horsepower just fine when built properly. The common storys you hear about them cracking down the sides comes from noobs that think that they have to rev to 10k to make power on a block designed for 6300rpm.

crvtectim

Simma down now, Zippy! I should have quoted his post for clarity, but my response was directed to the poster quoted below me. vvv

If you'll read it over again with this new info, you'll see I make perfect sense and in no way contradicted myself lol.

DirtyDA9

B20b's aren't the high compression one's. the Z's are. I would use a b20b and keep the stock compression ratio for boost.

OneBadTurboCRV

Thank you. I think the other guy needs to learn how to use context clues when it comes to reading. No where did I say they crack because of boost pressure or high RPMs - I said the sleeves can't handle detonation. This is indicative of ALL factory sleeves. Regardless of how/why they crack - they are the weakest B-series sleeve (that is relevant anyways).

I completely understand the process of how a B20 is made and why it's prone to cracking... I see you don't, and are due for some reading; here you go...

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/

To truly educate yourself (take time to actually read every word:
http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Yes please, educate me some more.

HPfreak

Personly i would go with a b18 if you what to boost later ...