hey, i have a jdm b18c block with pr3 b16 head with gsr cams...
i want to do pistons and rods, but not sure which ones to get for low compression
...i plan on running turbo eventually
i already have the motor apart with arp head studs
please let me know ur opinion on what i should do...

 

no need for low compression anymore... people are making over 400hp with 11:1 motors on 93

technology has gotten to the point where 9:1 is pointless

 

Low compression turbo builds are old school logic. I would go at least 10:1, there are many proven piston/rod combo's, buy whatever fits your budget.

 

would a stock jdm itr block/head/cams with only arp headstuds be able to handle 400hp?

 

It should be able to, yes. Especially if you have access to E85 or race gas, that's easily possible. Just gotta keep the ringlands in tact

 

even with 11.1 compression ration and stock sleeves??

 

Yes.

 

Yep

 

what size turbo would i need to get around 400hp?

or is there any kit that you guys recommend?

...is there any other upgrades to consider to make the 400hp safer bc this is my daily and cant really afford another motor anytime soon

 

A simple shorty ramhorn and a 57 trim will make 400whp. If you have access to E85, you can make the process a bit safer by using that fuel instead of pump gas. The only modifications I would make is to install some ARP head studs.

If you're worried about making that power on the stock block, maybe dial your goals back to 300whp for starters. If you've never built / owned a turbo Honda before, its a good idea to ease into it. Once you've worked out the kinks and have more money saved up, then go for broke.

 

and since hondas dont weigh ****, 300 hp makes for a faster can than you would think. usually around 350whp is where you start to really have traction issues and need drag radials, better suspension, boost by gear especially for 3rd gear etc.


and not to be a dick in any way, but if you are doing all this to a car you really need a backup beater car unless you live on the bus route. my early beaters were stock ef's and an old mazda protege. 500-1000 bucks just to get you something you can drive for a week or 2 if the turbz car goes down for whatever reason

 

+1

I also would highly recommend a daily beater car.

A 300-400WHP stock internal B-Series isn't going to last long. Once the ring lands break and score the heck out of your cylinder walls you are going to wish you installed forged internals in the beginning.

Install forged rods, pistons, ARP studs and stainless steel valves. Once the engine is put together you won't have to take it apart again. Valve springs and retainers can all be changed later without pulling the head if you can't afford it up front. Do it right the first time and install the best internals you can afford. The block will last you years and years. Pay now or twice later.

11:1CR as mentioned above is easily doable.

 

Been beating the day lights out of my completely virgin gsr (arp head studs still on shelf) with 340 whp for 10k miles in a year. Over a dozen trip to the track and two auto-x events. Should run a 7.2 or better on new turbo. Old turbo made a 7.88 @90mph in 8th. Second block is in garage but I am to the point of pushing stock setup until it pops.

 

okay so i will do internals first,forged rods, pistons, ARP studs,Valve springs, retainers and stainless steel valves. is that all i need to build a safe reliable 400hp-450hp motor??
i was also looking into the cncwerx cylinder support system, there guaranteeing the cylinder walls to 500hp and can take up to 800hp.

 

I would spend the money on springs and retainers before I would spend it on new valves. Stock valves can take more than you will be making.

 

Exactly. And if u do get valves avoid supertech valves they have a history of breaking. Their springs amd tetainers on tje other hand are very good for the money

 

what do guys think of cncwerx cylinder support system? and what pistons should i get?
i plan on getting eagle rods, arp head studs, and supertech springs and tetainers

 

I don't have any personal experience with CSS but from what I've seen and read, they will be getting my next block. Everything else looks pretty good though.

 

If you do everything you have listed in a excellent condition block (straight sleeves) and proper tune it should run for many years.

I've been in the game for 16+ years and I've learned the hard way to do something right the first time. It saves you time and money in the long run. If you put the motor together with stock valves, the next time you upgrade over the limit of them (and you will), you need to pull the head. Now you need a new head gasket, coolant, oil, valve seals, cam seals, the price of recutting the valve seats a second time, and a second torquing the head studs. You are looking $250-300+ for that and $300+ dollars for the new valves. Not to also mention the hassle and down time of the car.

I am not debating that valve springs are needed before valves (they should be done together), but with this tool below the springs and retains can be upgraded at any time for free (except possibly valve cover gasket). You'll pay the same amount just in replacement cost later as a new set of valves now. Also, SS valves can take considerably more heat god forbid something happens.

HPT Valve Spring Compressor Tool B-Series B16 B18 H22 ? HPTautosport

These are the things you want to think about about when building a car. When you buy something, spend a little more time and money and buy and install it once.

Spend 3-4 months researching what setups are making the most AND broadest power and learn how everything works together.

I do not have any personal experience with the CSS either, but i'm old school and honestly feel sleeving is the best way to go if it comes to making more than the stock sleeves can handle.