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Ok hello everyone Im currently building a boost set up and need any suggestions to if I should use a different turbo or different manifold maybe because one or the other are better quality , any ideas would help or if you think my build is legit then rock on! Ha ok so i recently came up on a trade for a boosted 2000 Honda Civic si em1 and its got a jdm gsr motor with type r cams and cam gears i believe everything else may be stock I have no clue if the previous owner built the block at all .. Stock manifold even stock radiator :/ ha I'm upgrading that .. The turbo set up on there now is some garret turbo and brms manifold? Read up on it seems legit but shorty welds on mine from previous owner anyways I'm changing out the turbo and manifold and was wondering if what I'm getting is legit btw I already have 1000cc precsion injectors and my goal is 375 on stock sleeves ! I wanna get this precsion turbo 5831 http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbochargers/entry-level-turbochargers/details/Entry-Level-Turbocharger----5831-MFS/492 ..... And the manifold is black works racing ram horn http://www.bwrusa.com/product_p/bwtm-b-rh-38.htm and the down pipe to match that .. http://www.bwrusa.com/product_p/bwfi-dp-b-rh.htm... Got my shop working with me on the prices and can get everything for $1600 all said and down! I think that's a pretty damn good deal and build but what are your thoughts and opinions?? Anybody have a build similar and like the results ? Any input would be appricated thanks. -Brandon
Yea I knew this site we be full of dick heads ..Can somebody else a lil nicer chime in or is this whole community full of people like this ^ not so pleasant experience so far .. I'd appricate it if both of you 2 ^would sincerely **** off and not comment anymore if you're gonna be useless to me thanks ..
The bigger question is if there's nothing wrong with the current setup, especially when you don't even know what turbocharger is on it, why change anything?
Without knowing what turbocharger you have now the precision 5831 could wind up being smaller. Although moving to a precision unit from a Garrett is a downgrade in general. Precision turbos don't have the best track record for reliability on honda applications.
We need detailed photos of your current setup and turbocharger as well as the serial number off of the tag on the CHRA if if has one. If it doesn't you'll have to remove the turbocharger and measure both wheels inducer/exducer to determine what turbocharger you currently have and if moving to a precision unit (again I would stay far far away from precision) is a worthwhile upgrade.
Also 375 on stock pistons and rods is beyond the safe reliable limit for stock internals, especially if it's your daily driver/only car and if it's on 91 or 93 octane. You might be able to make that power using water/methanol injection on pump gas but e85 would be the safest way.
But deciding to change parts and choosing a power goal when you currently don't know what the current setup makes is also stupid and potentially a waste of time and money. I find it hard to believe that if the current setup was properly installed and tuned on a dyno you don't know what kind of power it currently makes. That leads me to believe no tuning was ever done to the current setup.
Do you have a complete, thorough, and accurate build sheet of the parts that are currently on the car? I would hope so as the things like the manifold, turbocharger, and intercooler are only half of the forced induction equation. You still MUST HAVE a larger fuel pump, bigger injectors, some sort of engine management, a wideband, and most importantly of all, a proper tune. If your setup doesn't have any of these last things then you need to stop driving the car now unless you're just trying to blow the motor apart. Forced induction + no supporting modifications means you are basically driving a time bomb.
I'll say it one more time just so it sinks in... We need a complete breakdown of the parts list before we can say if it's necessary that you upgrade certain parts. Not to mention changing the turbocharger would also require a complete retune.
Yea I knew this site we be full of dick heads ..Can somebody else a lil nicer chime in or is this whole community full of people like this ^ not so pleasant experience so far .. I'd appricate it if both of you 2 ^would sincerely **** off and not comment anymore if you're gonna be useless to me thanks ..
Translation: wantboost just spoonfed you, even after you showed your *** to him directly. This is you right now. We deal with people like you multiple times a week. You'e too good for us. You think you know too much to bother reading the FAQ or rules stickies, that are both literally handed to you.
You deal with those people because you choose to deal with them .. Stop reading their post and mine and don't even comment if your gonna be a **** boi .. It's not about who thinks there better or whatever ******* other threads you want me to read .. I wanted to make my own thread and get some legit advice not some ********* being useless to me so seriously gtfo if you don't got anything nice to say and thank you so so much to anyone who is not like these other people and can help , Want boost thank you so much for your post .. As I listed before I said it has 1000cc precsion prejectors and it is tuned on hondata by Chris or Curtis weber out in Madison .. The current set up made 3-325 I forgot the exact number he told me .. All my buddies have stock sleeves and all run 3-450 some push there luck and go over that on stock internals but most people atleast get forged rods and Pistons like I will be doing .. Anyways .. The current turbo on it turbo seal is blown cuz I was beating the **** out of it and it's a old build now I'm wanting to re build it with those parts and it already has a upgraded fuel bump actually here's the full list for you .. 2000 Civic Si EM1
Boosted JDM b18c
8PSI
Hondata S300
Stage 3 Competition Clutch
Skunk2 coilovers.
Drilled and slotted Rotors
Avid AV-11 wheels with Nitto 450 Tires that are new
Garrett 60mm turbo
Tial Wastegate
BlueRidgeMotorSports turbo manifold
Blox type R Intake manifold
BlackWorks Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator
1000cc Precision injectors
AEM Fuel rail.
Moroso oil pan
B&W short shifter with energy bushings
Itr cams
Itr cam gears
Just pulled oil pan and valve cover, everything looks great but like I said the turbo seal just blew ... So wanting to upgrade and those were the parts I found for a good price from my shop so let me know now that I provided you everything you requested what you think.. Thanks
Bro, learn how to ******* spell. do u ecspekt ny1 2 wnt 2 reed g4rb4g3 fcking sht lke dis?
People will immediately perceive you as a dumbass. That and your basic question was kind of stupid considering your understanding of turbos must be pretty limited and you did not thoroughly read the faqs to help save the site some clutter. I was quite surprised wantboost treated you so kindly, better watch yourself because he is mod and has a big, scary, banhammer.
Good luck on the build. As said precision and well, I mean bwr isn't that bad but both aren't top of the line stuff and for that price I would definitely grab something else.
You deal with those people because you choose to deal with them .. Stop reading their post and mine and don't even comment if your gonna be a **** boi ..
I'm going to give you a bit of advice: This isn't a regular subsection of HT.
The people who do post here are few and far between...and very well versed in the topic(s) (minus myself). Every question you asked was answered years ago in the FAQ up top. Read through it, and you'll get most of your answers. People don't like repeating themselves, as it's a waste of time.
I highly suggest stop posting, and read. The attitude is a bit much, and isn't tolerated for long.
I think NotARaCist went easy on you. Word of advise don't get but hurt when people call you out for your mistakes here, just be humble take the advice that was thrown at you and don't prolong this back and forth you guys are not nice thing. Everyone that chimed in is VERY knowledgeable here and don't chime in every post talking ****, they do it for a reason..
This is why NOtaracist must exist. When I first came I caught the wrong vibe from him but a year later I see how you can get so annoyed by clowns that have caused the import crowd to be looked down upon.
http://www.clubbed-industries.com/product/plug-play-injector-resistor-box-harness/
Sorry, should have used copyand paste before but thanks for giving a noob like me some tips. Wish I could share some helpful advice with you but since I can't, choke on a dick.
^so much for going soft lol. Get these useless assclowns off the forum. Coming in with hard-ons for boost when all they're blowing are each other, not their cars.
Just pulled oil pan and valve cover, everything looks great but like I said the turbo seal just blew .
it will continue to look great until you pop the pistons out and the ring lands fall out in pieces.
did you compression and leakdown test the motor? whats the crankcase ventilation system look like? how are you so sure its the turbo itself? dry manifold and ports but wet turbine housing?
So is it running stock internals? If so and you aren't building the motor at the moment I wouldn't change anything. You're very likely at the safe limit for pump gas and stock internals. Going any higher severely risks the reliability of the motor.
And Garrett 60mm doesn't tell us jack **** about the turbocharger as that isn't any sort of real size designation.
I'll say it again, we need photos and physical wheel measurements of the turbocharger. Until that happens everyone, including us and you, are wasting their time.
I didn't know precision was crap. This thread was worth my time
My advice is to get a smaller turbo. If you are making 300-325 on 8 PSI, go with something a little bit smaller and push it into the top of the efficiency range (something like 20 PSI, it depends on the turbo. Read up on how to read turbo maps and start shopping.) and make your 375 HP that way. You'll have a much more fun car to drive, until the wrist pin snaps and you throw a piston out the side of your block and through the radiator.
You will need a new tune if you go this route. Your cheapest option is to pull the damn tag off the turbo, get online, find the same turbo, and just bolt in a replacement and keep driving the car as it is. Or even just get a rebuild kit and drop it off at a decent shop.
Don't get caught up in being a dyno queen and take the HT hate for what it is. If you survive the harassment now, it'll be worth it later.
It's not that precision is crap, it's just for whatever reason their track record with Hondas isn't the best
Fair enough. The two statements sort of amount to the same thing since a Honda is my only application. I see a ton of Precision turbos being used on this forum though. I only have experience with a single Garret unit, so I'm not really experienced with the quality of many units aside from what I see and read.
Garrett has a great track record with our applications. I've had experience with both and had no issues from either. I also had a Godspeed turbo go 50k miles on a stock y8 build back in the day so I've been fortunate.
08-07-2015, 04:37 PM
Any recommendations for my build ?
