well I've searched but found nothing specific on this. I recently finished my turbo kit its a small 48 straight t3 turbo on a d 15b vtec with a virgin p28 ecu stock ignition timing. When i started boosting my waste gate was broken so I only saw about 3-4 psi and it ran fine without retarding my timing but know that I bought a new waste gate and boosting around 5-6 psi i started to here something like some one punching my firewall or something kind of like a backfire but from my engine not the exhaust. so does that sound like pre igniting or detonating, i read detonating sounds like marble's in a jar but it doesn't sound like that to me . so should i retard my timing? and since i don't have a timing gun I don't know were im at so about how many centimeters or inches does it take to retard one degree and how many degrees per pound? i know its lame an in accurate but its all I got for know.

 

i would get it tuned if you want to have fun with it for a longer time...

if you realy use stock NA timing... you would run into detonation problems very soon... i wouldn't recommend this.

depending on cr i would retard 0-7-0.9°/psi to be sure that nothing breaks until get tuned...

 

well i found a nice big article and read that detonating can go on for some time with out blowing your engine but pre ignition will blow your motor as soon as it happens, so i guees im detonating. but it also said you can fix this by retarding timing and geting colder plugs. I am going to retard my timing and I want to get colder plugs but what are they called, do they go by numbers or brand, how do I ask for colder plugs for my car?

 

FAQ is on the top of the page! To ask for colder plugs just say "yo I want a step colder plug" NGK bkre7 is the plug I am fairly sure.

 

you're damn right

except be sure to ask for the NGK bkr7e 11's yay

 

well today I tried to get the colder plugs but could not find a store or shop that carried thos plugs. So i decided that I should retard my timing atleast, so i poped the hood and retarded the timing manually and turned the car on, it started fine and the idle was ok so i was just looking at my motor running and I purposly disconected the spark plug wire on #1 piston just to see how it would idle , it ran for a couple of seconds and shut down. I put the spark plug wire back on and tried to turn the car back on but know it wont start do you guys think i fried my dizzy just for doing somthing small like that?

 

I would start with some new plugs...

 

well i went ahead and bought a hole new dizzy with a life time waranty for 200.00 and fixed the problem rite away. I also retarded my timing and the noise that i think was detonating went away but it doesnt feel as fast as before( before when i hit boost it would push me back in to the seat hard, but know the car runs smooth all the way up with or without boost). do you think what i heard might of just been misfiring from the faulty dizzy?

 

sounds more like you were missfiring or something to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds more like you were miss firing or something to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea that's what im thinking now because it never detonated before and it recently started so im thinking i should try to put it back to stock and see what hapens

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I purposly disconected the spark plug wire on #1 piston just to see how it would idle , it ran for a couple of seconds and shut down. I put the spark plug wire back on and tried to turn the car back on but know it wont start do you guys think i fried my dizzy just for doing somthing small like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Many folks do not understand how stressful, in an electronics way, is the sequence of storing energy in the coil, but not having a spark. All that energy that is stored in the coil during the dwell, tries to breakdown the secondary. The voltage pegs around 40 ish Kilovolts. If you have a marginal coil, you will breakdown the secondary with either a interwinding short, or a short to ground. If your secondary is pristine perfect, that energy rings back into the primary where it wants to now fry the IGBT (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor)xin your ignitor module. The voltage rings into the IGBT and is typically clamped at 350 volts. But now all that stored energy is dumped into the snubber circuits. It puts the snubbing electronics under incredible electrical stress. An occasional misfire, most designs can handle, but a cronic misfire will tend to exceed the Safe Operating Area of the IGBT and fuse it into a glob of silica sand.

It is much safer to short out the plug to stop firing, than open the circuit. Just put a little piece of #28 wire in the dizzy where the sparkplug wire goes, then short that to ground with a screwdriver.

 

[IMG][/IMG] this are my plugs, do you think im running too rich and if I am then it couldnt of been detonating rite? and it was all from a foulty dizzy so i should put timing back to stock rite?

 

And you are providing more fuel...how?

 

Just from the plug photo I can see the gap is to wide. Gap em at 30 and then try em

 

yeah that gap is huge man, crank it down to a .028 or .030

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PK SPEED &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Just from the plug photo I can see the gap is to wide. Gap em at 30 and then try em</TD></TR></TABLE> already bought the same plugs and gaped them to.30, what else should I do? you think I should set my timing back to stock?

 

Is it still missing or whatever with the new distributor? Having too wide of a gap can definintly cause your car to start sputtering in the higher rpms because of spark being blown out, but if you already gapped them to .03 then i doubt thats the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it still missing or whatever with the new distributor? Having too wide of a gap can definintly cause your car to start sputtering in the higher rpms because of spark being blown out, but if you already gapped them to .03 then i doubt thats the problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well i thought that engine noise was detonation or pre ignition but then my dizzy went to **** and I replaced it and retarded timing and it revs up smoothly now but i dont know if the noise was detonation or misfire thats why I showed you guys my plugs to see if any body can tell me if it was detonating or if its running rich.

 

how are you controling the fuel????

 

i knew this would come up but please don't start baging on my ems its all I got until more money comes my way, after that explanation im using a fmu with a msd inline fuel pump

 

i think we're having the same problem. I just boosted my B16 and i'm having a similar sounding problem. I went out and got the NGK BRK6E's and installed them, but i hadn't regapped them yet. I'm actually planning on doing that this weekend.

 

do my plugs look like normal operation?

 

You have BKRE 7's now? Gap them down to 0.32. Your plugs above look a little rich. If want some good advice take your car to a dyno a get it tuned with a AFC or something. Or kiss your engine goodbye.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have BKRE 7's now? Gap them down to 0.32. Your plugs above look a little rich. If want some good advice take your car to a dyno a get it tuned with a AFC or something. Or kiss your engine goodbye.</TD></TR></TABLE>yes i got the new plugs and im probably going to the dyno on monday not tuning though(dont have enuff money unless you guys want to pitch in )just dyno pulls with a wide band so I can se if im running lean or too rich

 

I was reading some more on misfiring and every one who has a misfire gets a ecu trouble code but I checked my ecu and I havent goten any codes, is it still a misfire what i had before?