<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay I'm slow and it took me a while to get it, but let me know if I have it summed up right:

-run 10-11 psi on the VAFC and DSM 450's with a timing retard of 3 degrees at the distributor and I should be good to go, safety/reliability-wise? I know about the OBD-I clips and resistor box I'll need, I'm just talking about the tuning side. I read through that AFC hack thread, and it helped sorta but this thread kicks ***.

Let me know if I'm understanding properly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can anyone answer my question?

 

That's pretty much what I said - yeah, you're good to go. Try to get on a wideband when you tune your fuel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's pretty much what I said - yeah, you're good to go. Try to get on a wideband when you tune your fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pimp ****, thanks a bunch man. BTW, from reading your posts I've concluded that you're a ******* genius when it comes to tuning Hondas.

BTW, I may be picking up a SMC+ soon, which doesn't have hi/lo throttle settings I believe - that should be the same, right? Tuning-wise? I plan on hitting the dyno to get tuned anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pimp ****, thanks a bunch man. BTW, from reading your posts I've concluded that you're a ******* genius when it comes to tuning Hondas. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I like to think that, but... when Mase calls me, he doesn't ask for tuning advice

 

Alright well here's another question for you:

MSD BTM vs. retarding timing 2-3 degrees at the dizzy? Which is better/more accurate?

 

MSD BTM does nothing for afc hack ignition peak, as previously stated. You might lost a little in the low rpms off boost with your distributor dialed back a few degrees (who cares) but you get your final ignition timing correct and less of an ignition advance in low boost for free versus the money a BTM commands.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MSD BTM does nothing for afc hack ignition peak, as previously stated. You might lost a little in the low rpms off boost with your distributor dialed back a few degrees (who cares) but you get your final ignition timing correct and less of an ignition advance in low boost for free versus the money a BTM commands.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome. Thanks for the info. (or a re-statement of it for us slow folks).

 

I could only boost 10 psi with the timing dialed back 3 deg. base...Anything after that, you would hear very slight pinging....I put a btm on, and I am now able to boost 13 psi on pump gas w/ no pinging at all....I can tell you that the btm is definately not accuate, but it does in fact pull timing under boost while using the afc hack...Yeah,yeah, this may not be the best setup in the world to run, and everyone knows its ghetto management, but I have 170k on a bone stock ls motor with about 6k on the car with the turbo and not a single problem yet..(knock on wood) ...

BTW...The car has never been under 10 psi of boost (usually10-13 psi), and has seen up to 17 psi using this fuel setup however, anything over 13 psi gets c16 along with the btm set back to zero, and manually retarding timing. Am I saying this is the best optimal setup???No,no,no, not by far, but I can tell you it has been working out good so far with 6000 miles boosted and 150 time slips later.....
And on a last and final note, (THIS ESP. FOR JDAVIS) in know way,shape,or form I am trying to argue this being the 100% correct way to do things, just a little friendly info to share with some fellow honda-techers....cheers

 

99lspwr, I think I've stated a couple times that it's people who don't understand the AFC hack problem and how to address it shouldn't run it... those people should get a Hondata or EMS or find a local chipper to tune them on Uberdata or TurboEdit. Since you have a clue, you're golden and have good luck even if it's not the best setup.

 

J Davis::::

Yeah, I know what u mean about people understanding the afc and how it works...However, I didnt mean to call u out or anything, just wanted to give my .02 about how the afc hack has been working for me...
P.S. I wish I could run even more boost with this set-up, however my "little" 18g turbo and 2 inch exhaust seem to be running out of steam at 17 psi....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99lspwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I could only boost 10 psi with the timing dialed back 3 deg. base...Anything after that, you would hear very slight pinging....I put a btm on, and I am now able to boost 13 psi on pump gas w/ no pinging at all....I can tell you that the btm is definately not accuate, but it does in fact pull timing under boost while using the afc hack...Yeah,yeah, this may not be the best setup in the world to run, and everyone knows its ghetto management, but I have 170k on a bone stock ls motor with about 6k on the car with the turbo and not a single problem yet..(knock on wood) ...

BTW...The car has never been under 10 psi of boost (usually10-13 psi), and has seen up to 17 psi using this fuel setup however, anything over 13 psi gets c16 along with the btm set back to zero, and manually retarding timing. Am I saying this is the best optimal setup???No,no,no, not by far, but I can tell you it has been working out good so far with 6000 miles boosted and 150 time slips later.....
And on a last and final note, (THIS ESP. FOR JDAVIS) in know way,shape,or form I am trying to argue this being the 100% correct way to do things, just a little friendly info to share with some fellow honda-techers....cheers </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you leave the timing @3 degrees retard and run the btm or set it to stock and then use the btm?

 

I put the timing back to stock when I run the btm...BTW, the btm gets all out of WACK on anything beyond 13 psi..(which is way to dangerous on pump gas anyway)..

 

o.k. guys i got a problem. i want to go 8psi on a stock b16a2(1993 i gues obd1) while using the vafc2hack. i cant use hondata or anything like that because i live in holland and there arent any tuners around. so what about timing? is there a green plug on my ecu wich i have to short(does that turn all of the numbers in the second picture depending on dizzi angle into 0 degree advance? and than move my dizzy to the right for a few degrees retard? can i check timing with a strobe lamp wich is possible on old hyunday's? how much retard do i need then? and please use easy language cause i'm not to good at it!
Thanks! it would help a lot!


Modified by dnbruut at 10:18 PM 5/27/2004

 

annybody?

 

Below 800-900 rpms your ignition timing should be your base timing. I get lazy and just unplug the IACV connector, which drops rpms down to 400-500, and then check/adjust my ignition timing. You are supposed to use a timing light aka strobe light to check/adjust the timing.

You sure you don't care to learn to tune your ECU yourself? Uberdata isn't too hard.

 

i would love to learn about uberdata but i thought it was very hard to use it!
can you explain it to me in simple language how it works?
I need to desolder the eprom out, put it in a romburner hooked up to the pc and than burn your homemade mappings on to it right?
btw whats a iacv? because im not used to your language.
Thanks!

 

i hate to bring back a dead horse but i would like to have something clarified,
i have a b16 , turbo'd with the vafc and dsm 450's. i got the vafc as part of a kit with my turbo, and after researching, when i get some money in a few weeks i think im gonna delve into uberdata and possibly buy a wideband(see below). but for now i need to be able to drive my car and not blow it up. please excuse my noobish questions this is all new to me.

1.running MORE boost is safer? up to what point? (the max the map sensor can read? what point is that exactly?) and why?

2.is simply installing the vafc called the afc hack or is the hack when i get a new ignition map burned and run that in conjunction with the vafc?

3.and from reading earlier posts in this thread you recommend just retarding the distributor 3ish deg. rather than getting a MSD BTM?

4. MSD BTM = base timing map?

5.would it be possibe to, instead of buying a wideband for $300 just buy the 5-wire sensor, moniter the voltage and use the formula i found (on the techedge website i think) "volts X 2+10" (ie 2.35 volts making 14.7 a/f ratio) for tuning purposes?

this is kind of directed at j. davis, who seems to be the expert here but any answers are more than welcome. thanks in advance

 

1. not sure off the top of my head
2. it's when you install a vafc and use it to rescale the map signal when using a turbo/bigger injectors
3. I've gathered the msd btm does little to nothing with the hack
4. not sure
5. no, the bulk of a WB02 controller is heater controls, the sensor would be destroyed in a matter of minutes without the heater running at the proper temp

 

thanks sideout, but i would still like some clarification (from anybody) as to-

1.running MORE boost is safer? up to what point? (the max the map sensor can read? what point is that exactly?) and why?

2.so if i retard the timing at the distributor 3 deg. and play with the fuel then i should be ok untill i get my hands on a wideband?

3.and still, wtf is a MSD BTM?

4. afc HACK means new timing map?

thanks a lot.

 

# 1 - read J. Davis's post again. if you still don't get it, read it once more. he's explained this very well

# 2 - how are you going to "play with the fuel" without a wideband O2 to monitor what your "playing with the fuel" actually is doing to the way the car runs?

# 3 - http://www.msdignition.com

# 4 - read J. Davis's post again. it's the same map, just reading from a different area of the map due to reducing the MAP sensor voltage that the ECU sees.

 

BTM = boost timing master

 

ok first of all i have to do the vafc hack in my country untill i can find the time and knowledge to figure uberdata out. and i don't know if i understand it for 100% so if your smart enough, tell me if im wrong! but if the vafc hack causes ignition advance when cutting duty-cycle time(because 450cc is to big) a lot, then why not use smaller injectors? i gues oem inj. are to small for my 220whp b16a2 but i would say that 320cc would be a lot closer to 0%fuel cut than 450cc's thats why i would say that it doesnt advance the ignition so much anymore! tell me if im wrong on this one!
( i dont want to go 10psi and make 250whp on a stock b16a2)
sorry for the bad language!

 

anybody smart enough?

 

It just happens that the cut required on the map senor works good with 450's.. You might be better off running an fmu with some 310cc injectors and then have the afc to fine tune. Much less correction..

 

im not getting it why does 450cc work better than 310 when your not using the extra cc?