hatchback_al

Well i recently started out with my beginners turbo kit that I have put together over the past few months. It consists of:
d16y8 in 91 civic dx hatch
ihi rhb5 with HF mani and custom plate stock WG setting
obd0 pr4 ecu ZIF socketed with an N/A mugen ZC program
450 cc dsms
DSM intercooler
2" charge piping
DSM bov
FPR set at about 34psi
autometer A/F gauge
AFC settings at 25% for idle, 35% all across otherwise

my problem is, when I first start it up it starts great and idles great. Runs fine no bogs or anything. MOST of the time, driving around the A/F gauge stays in the stoich and rich area, and when it does its basically always there when on the throttle at all. Now every now and then it likes to decide to do the complete opposite and always stay in the lean/stoich area. And when I say that I mean lean is fully lit up and stoich has about half its bars lit up. And when it does that it will stay like that no matter what. Sometimes at partial throttle cruising it will even go off the gauge on the lean side and just stay down there and wont come back and when it does it stays pretty lean. WTF does it does this. It was doing it on the way home tonight and I kept pulling over and richening it out on the AFC and the richer I went the shittier it ran but wouldn't hardly go any richer on the A/F gauge. I went as rich as -15% all the way across on the vafc and it was running like **** but wouldnt go rich on the gauge. WTF gives?? Sorry for the long post but I really need to know whats up.
-Alex

safe driver

do you have a wideband? if not, your air/fuel reading is garbage.

if the ecu is not in open-loop operation (ie: full throttle or lots of load on the motor), the afr will always try to be stoich no matter what the setting on the afc is. I verified this with my wideband. no matter how much i turned up the fuel on the afc, it'll not change the afr until the ecu goes into open-loop mode. then the afr will drop to being rich.

SOHC_MShue

yea he is right your light show isn't telling you anything accurate. Also i would get rid of that n/a mugen program. That program is probably adding in a shitload of timing and as we all know with the hack this isn't a safe thing at all.

Junglesnake

1. Put the factory ECU back in your car.
2. Ditch the FMU.
3. Set you AFC settings at about -40 across the RPM points....then tweek from there.

Remember the more simple you keep everyhting, the easier it is to diagnose problems.

hatchback_al

Yeah I know that n/a program is doing me NO good, but I cant find my other chips around and its the only ecu I have. What I'm really wanting is a flippin p28 but everyone wants so damn much for one.

hatchback_al

and i never had an FMU....

tgreaves

You could also get a chip burner and run Turboedit for your obd0 ecu.. Its free and youll be able to support boost on it..

hatchback_al

I dont know anyone that has turboedit or knows how to tune it, I hear alost of issues with it also, not running correctly. I think if I do anything like that it will be uberdata

hatchback_al

so I just went for about a 8 mile round trip in my car and I couldnt get it to hit rich on the gauge no matter what, it was always in lean and stoich. However I noticed, that if I turn my headlights on, it instantly makes the gauge read a good bit leaner.....wtf