Thoes who have an aem wideband how did you install it. Black to ground red to switchd power source that has a fuse like a radio but what did you do with the white and blue wire ?

 

Why dont you read the instructions?

 

You should have a ground, a power wire, and perhaps a light power souce (unless your gauge is older and the light is always on). The other wires are your sensor wires and should plug into the 02 sensor.

 

i put the red on 12v switch. You should ground it to the thermostat where the engine grounds are. i have read you should try to ground all your stuff to the same place on your car to stop unwanted noise. I run the white wire to d14 on the ecu. Blue wire is for a rs232 cable.

 

the black wire is your gound
the red wire is your power source (ran mine to the fuse box with the radio fuse.)
the white wire is your source.
the blue wire is not needed.

run a good solid ground with the black wire,
run the red wire to your fuse box
run the white wire to d10 or d14 pin on your ECU. either cut the old wire or splice it in. assuming you have hondata you can datalog with your wideband.

 

you can just use your radio harness for power/ground

 

the bad thing about the aem is that the white wire is a 0-5v output so you cant really run it to d14. you cant use the aem to provide narrowband data to the ecu. and also datalogging from d14 is unreliable because it reads a max of like 3.7 volts.

OP, are you trying to replace your stock o2 with the AEM? if so you should run in open loop and just wire power and ground. then to datalog you can use the white wire to d10 (ELD, which is a true 0-5v input)

 

I did the 0-5v mod on my ecu. It worked befor the mod just would not log values over 17.5 afr.

 

Ok so red to switched power source black to ground and white to sensor voltage D10 on the ecu and leave blue alone ??. It will be used with hondata or ectune. Dose it matter if it's obd1 or obd2 ecu / motor meaning is it still d10

 

what car is this in

 

What kind of noise are you talking about? Like the noise a TV makes when nothing is playing? My AEM uego wideband does that for somereason. Everytime i turn it on it makes the noise of a TV with no volume...

 

It's in a 98 civic with an odb1 b16a swap in it

 

what ecu? obd1 and obd2 have different pinouts. i just always assume obd1 with tuning/widebands.

 

Please dont post unless you have factual info. The AEM can do due nearst emulation (narrowband) via a switch on the back which makes the signal 0-1v. It has 4 positions (one is 0-5v linear, 0-1v narrowband, I dont know the other 2 off my head)

Nothing wrong with logging from D14. Sure it only goes to 3.7 volts, but that ended up being like 16.7 afr on my AEM. Thats higher then what you need to know.

AKA READ THE DAMN MANUAL

http://tunertools.com/prodimages/AEM...structions.pdf

 

I cant read the manual becuase I didn't buy it yet i'm planning on buying it soon i was just curious as to what people did before i had to install it. And yes it's an odb1 ecu it's a jdm p30

 

Also how do you test to make sure you have the correct volts and the ecu with a meter one lead to ground the other to the ecu pin

 

I just linked it...

 

hmm, didnt know there was a switch. but then my question would be if you change the output to the narrowband then you wouldnt be able to datalog because you no longer have a wideband output. so you would have to pick one function or the other?

1) 0-5v output and datalog off d10 (or d14 if you want the reduced range). ecu in open loop
2) 0-1v output to d14 for narrowband simulation (no datalogging available). ecu in closed loop

 

Well if your using a wideband to tune anyway, your going to have an aftermarket ecu. And every good aftermarket ecu I know of has closed loop built in that you can set parameters to, including what o2 sensor voltage to use.

At least with ectune you can just use 0-5v to log and use closed loop if you want.

So basically the only time you'd use 0-1v is if your running a stock ecu and are replacing the stock o2 sensor with it.

 

This thread has saved me lots of time (so that I don't have to switch to my Innovate LC-1, since I have the AEM gauge etc setup)

The white wire on the AEM gauge is going to go to d14 on my chipped obd1 Honda ECU.

I am using HULOG to get data to my laptop, and Crome Pro to datalog (which we've seen get 25+ plots per second, much faster than Freelog).

I'll report back, despite not being the OP. Was looking for conclusive information here, but this looks like I can keep my gauge installed and intact (for manually reading a/f) while using HULOG (which I have the 4 pins pinned out on the ECU for) into the laptop.

Technically, this is still 'using a wideband' to tune, but using the 'narrowband' simulated analog output for letting HULOG read directly from the ECU to plot MAP/RPM/A-F in order to tune.

 

Did your aem harness have a brown wire for a signal ground?
I'm doing the same thing with a newer aem uego model and it says it has red-+12v black-gnd white-signal positive brown-signal gnd. I ran both the brown and black to the sensor ground on the ecu and it's acting weird like during the heating process it just goes blank and shows the 4 lines

 

Place the black wire on a good chassis ground all by itself and connect the brown wire to the engine harness ground at the thermostat housing. Remove both grounds from the ECU plug.

 

I did that anthats still doing the same thing. It heats for about two or 3 seconds and the. The "needle" sweeps all the way to the end and just shows 4 line

 

You may have damaged it by wiring it incorrectly in the first place. Also, it may not be wiring related at all... how long was the sensor installed into the exhaust stream before you actually wired up the gauge/system ???

 

I didn't put it in until after it was acting weird. And Im pretty sure that the last owner definitely wired it wrong I'm just gonna do what I should've done and get a new unused one and it'll be an lc-2 instead