How many psi will it take me to hit ~300whp with a t3/t4 57trim .63/.48 turbo.

Setup will be
dsm 450's
2.5in IC piping.
2.5in Open DP
Jrc 6in FMIC
38mm Tial knock off
RFL BOV
STOCK LS motor 9:1 Compression

I ask this b/c im trying to create a setup with a high and low boost setting. i want to run about 7psi low boost and around 300whp high boost. Im just not sure exacly what psi that will be at. I don't want to go over 300 b/c i don't want to blow up the block. this setup is going to be tuned somwhat consrvatly on crome so you can expect a retard of about .8 deg per lb of boost past 10psi.

 

Based on everyone's different results here I would guestimate around 12psi. However, why do you want a low boost setting for only 300whp? Why only 7 psi? If you just want to conserve your motor since it is stock, why not just drive more slow. However, not my car or any of that jazz.

Good luck on your build.

 

<FONT COLOR="purple">on a LS your lookin between 12-15psi roughly on 91 pump </FONT>

 

yeah snoflake has it about right, you should have some decent tq alot with ur setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah snoflake has it about right, you should have some decent tq alot with ur setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>yep, thats why i picked the .48ar. Also, i will only be putting 93octain in it. I want to have a low boost setting b/c i like have the option to switch power bands! I only will switch on special occasions like track or if i see a viper gtst.

 

Please don't think of it as XXboost, but stick to your HP goals. If you want that 300whp to last on a stock motor I suggest going to the dyno to see EXACTLY how the engine is dealing with the boost and how to keep it safe accordingly. Too conservative at those power levels on a stock motor "can" be just as bad as too aggressive. GL though. On a .48 A/R it's going to take you a little more boost tough because the volumetric efficiency has changed especially in the high end

 

what things should i be looking for outa my motor if i want it to last long besides "knocking/detonation"?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whiteintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what things should i be looking for outa my motor if i want it to last long besides "knocking/detonation"?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A good tuner . Seriously it's WAY too much to talk about. Basically, like any engine, keep the cylinder pressures and heat out because stock cast iron pistons don't like that. Read like the 3rd page of the huge LS-T thread I explain a little of what I did to keep my 328whp motor still living.

 

check the sig, im kinda close

 

Nice numbers GS-R Civic!

ok, i read a few pages out of the thread. So it seems that keeping heat down and cylinder pressure down is the key to longevity. I also agree what what asdeguy said about running more boost and more timing retard to achive more power. How ever im confused about one issue. Since you use a pyrometer to measure EGT's, A boost gauge to measure boost, how do you measure peak cylinder pressure? If one of the goals of longevity is to keep cylinder pressure down, how is this measured? how did you measure your cylinder peak pressure asdeguy?

 

Well you can measure combustion pressure with a special sensor that goes with a spark plug, but those are very expensive.

I was starting to writedown exactly why I did my methods, but evanstuning.com has a nice little article on combustion pressures. All I do is keep the same area under the combustion curve while removing the peak. Sorry I could explain better, but it would take time which I don't have

 

kool, ill make sure i read it.

 

With that turbo, what does everyone think the spool time is going to be like? At what RPM's will there be full boost you guys think?

 

im at 7psi around 3700-4200

 

hey adseguy, can you post a link to the article you are refering to? I can't find it on evans-tuning. Thanks

 

hey GS-R Civic, you sure are making alot of power for only 7psi. Jeff must have hooked you up with a really aggressive tune. For 10psi im trying to make 230whp.

 

oh wait, you have a higher compression gsr motor. nevermind!

 

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=136



That's what I mean by reducing the peak and keeping the same area

 

ok asedguy, i just read that write up and i have a clearer understaning on the sbject of tuning. I also understad why you said not to ratard to much. According to the graph that measures cylinder pressure and crank angle, it looks the earlier you ignite btdc, your pressure will be the greatest ATDC, this dosent make any sense!!?!? according to the graph i should advanced my spark timing to keep the cylinder pressure down AFTDC. I know this isn't right. so where is the balance?!?!


2nd question. THis is more about hardware Q. Im kinda worried about knock, where it from pre-egnition or just exessive heat. how does crome work with my stock knock sensor? Will i be able to log knock?

Thanks a bunch!

 

id say on LS motor wiht 57 trim its gonna take closer to 13-15lbs to make 300whp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Whiteintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok asedguy, i just read that write up and i have a clearer understaning on the sbject of tuning. I also understad why you said not to ratard to much. According to the graph that measures cylinder pressure and crank angle, it looks the earlier you ignite btdc, your pressure will be the greatest ATDC, this dosent make any sense!!?!? according to the graph i should advanced my spark timing to keep the cylinder pressure down AFTDC. I know this isn't right. so where is the balance?!?!


2nd question. THis is more about hardware Q. Im kinda worried about knock, where it from pre-egnition or just exessive heat. how does crome work with my stock knock sensor? Will i be able to log knock?

Thanks a bunch!</TD></TR></TABLE>
You pretty much want the peak cylinder pressure to occur around 16-20* atdc. You will need to get on a dyno to see when mbt is occuring.

As for the stock knock sensor its my understanding that its not too useful. Use some other kind of knock monitoring device or pull spark plugs to check for knock.

 

ok, so what is the cooralation between the timing graph and the MBT graph?

 

???

 

you d/p is to small. go for a 3in downpipe. are you obd1 right now? if you are just run open downpipe. **** sounds nuts! i am running it and i couldnt go for anything else unless i was running a 4in v-band d/p from full-race.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b00sted_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you d/p is to small. go for a 3in downpipe. are you obd1 right now? if you are just run open downpipe. **** sounds nuts! i am running it and i couldnt go for anything else unless i was running a 4in v-band d/p from full-race. </TD></TR></TABLE>2.5 should be enough for 300whip. Plus im trying to reatain my A/C.

Why would you need/want a 4in DP? im 100% sure your car is not flowing enought exahust for you to open up your dp from 3in to 4in. Silly billy!