20w50?!??!
i just had some input and the guy told me to use 20w50 for the summer time cause its hot?? im here in san diego(its pretty hot) i can't find any reviews saying whether its good or not?? so should i use 20w50 for a 94 LS.... iono what hte previous owner has been putting right now i just baught some 10w30 valvoline and he told me to get some 20w50 what do you guys think?
yeah. you don't want too thick of a viscosity. I believe there are some articles here related to engine oil and outside engine termperatures and needs.
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From: Altamonte Springs/Orlando, Florida, USA
I'd like to know how the hell to ppl think whats too thick for there engine? It's like trying to run while your waist deep in water.
I dont hear of anyone sending there oil to lab for an inspection to see whats going on. '' I think this I think that '' doesnt work.
I dont hear of anyone sending there oil to lab for an inspection to see whats going on. '' I think this I think that '' doesnt work.
Only two things matter for oil viscosity:
1) Ambiant temperature will determine the "cold" weight of the oil. If you live somewhere really cold, run a lower cold number will get oil to the bearings faster and make starting easier.
2) Engine operating temperature for the "hot" weight of the oil. It doesn't matter if you live in the Sahara desert or in Maine, if the engine runs at 195 degrees, that is all that matters. If your oil temps are getting much hotter than water temps, install an oil cooler.
Personally, I run 5W50 synthetic by Mobil 1. Engine starts easy and the oil stays pretty viscous when hot, which gives me peace of mind because I know it won't seep through my turbo seals.
1) Ambiant temperature will determine the "cold" weight of the oil. If you live somewhere really cold, run a lower cold number will get oil to the bearings faster and make starting easier.
2) Engine operating temperature for the "hot" weight of the oil. It doesn't matter if you live in the Sahara desert or in Maine, if the engine runs at 195 degrees, that is all that matters. If your oil temps are getting much hotter than water temps, install an oil cooler.
Personally, I run 5W50 synthetic by Mobil 1. Engine starts easy and the oil stays pretty viscous when hot, which gives me peace of mind because I know it won't seep through my turbo seals.
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I run 10w-40 (big bearing clearances).
My roomie just tried running 20w-50 in his z06 and his valvetrain chattered at start-up because the oil was too thick to pump into the head. I think it's way too thick. Why lose hp/efficiency for no reason?
My roomie just tried running 20w-50 in his z06 and his valvetrain chattered at start-up because the oil was too thick to pump into the head. I think it's way too thick. Why lose hp/efficiency for no reason?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enzo Speed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run 10w-40 (big bearing clearances).
My roomie just tried running 20w-50 in his z06 and his valvetrain chattered at start-up because the oil was too thick to pump into the head. I think it's way too thick. Why lose hp/efficiency for no reason?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think that happend becuse they have hydrolic lifters.. correct me if im wrong .. but its horrible to do that iwth hydrolic lifter motors
My roomie just tried running 20w-50 in his z06 and his valvetrain chattered at start-up because the oil was too thick to pump into the head. I think it's way too thick. Why lose hp/efficiency for no reason?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think that happend becuse they have hydrolic lifters.. correct me if im wrong .. but its horrible to do that iwth hydrolic lifter motors
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally, I run 5W50 synthetic by Mobil 1. Engine starts easy and the oil stays pretty viscous when hot, which gives me peace of mind because I know it won't seep through my turbo seals.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats all well and good but the fact remains 20w50 and 5w50 etc kill your spool up on turbo vehicles by as much as 500rpms over 5w30 and 10w30 which in my opinion is pretty serious especially for a street driven car.
the facts are out there....
thats all well and good but the fact remains 20w50 and 5w50 etc kill your spool up on turbo vehicles by as much as 500rpms over 5w30 and 10w30 which in my opinion is pretty serious especially for a street driven car.
the facts are out there....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .m a c a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats all well and good but the fact remains 20w50 and 5w50 etc kill your spool up on turbo vehicles by as much as 500rpms over 5w30 and 10w30 which in my opinion is pretty serious especially for a street driven car.
the facts are out there....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd like to see some evidence of that
I have never noticed any spool changes when changing to 20w50...
thats all well and good but the fact remains 20w50 and 5w50 etc kill your spool up on turbo vehicles by as much as 500rpms over 5w30 and 10w30 which in my opinion is pretty serious especially for a street driven car.
the facts are out there....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd like to see some evidence of that
I have never noticed any spool changes when changing to 20w50...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd like to see some evidence of that
I have never noticed any spool changes when changing to 20w50...</TD></TR></TABLE>
theres plenty of threads, ive tested it myself.
every setup is different though. you think im making it up?
im not going to do the research for you
I'd like to see some evidence of that
I have never noticed any spool changes when changing to 20w50...</TD></TR></TABLE>theres plenty of threads, ive tested it myself.
every setup is different though. you think im making it up?
im not going to do the research for you
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From: Altamonte Springs/Orlando, Florida, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like to see some evidence of that
I have never noticed any spool changes when changing to 20w50...</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's common knowledge an engine will lose hp with thicker oil.
I would never touch a 5w50 thats much modifiers in the oil.
No one wants to send out there oil to be examined I've found less metal contaminates with lighter weight oil in my Honda engine and oil break down wasnt even a sign @ 10k miles. ( to add I went wot and race almost everyday)
Modified by MidShipCivic at 10:23 AM 7/5/2006
I have never noticed any spool changes when changing to 20w50...</TD></TR></TABLE>It's common knowledge an engine will lose hp with thicker oil.
I would never touch a 5w50 thats much modifiers in the oil.
No one wants to send out there oil to be examined I've found less metal contaminates with lighter weight oil in my Honda engine and oil break down wasnt even a sign @ 10k miles. ( to add I went wot and race almost everyday)
Modified by MidShipCivic at 10:23 AM 7/5/2006
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i've used 20w50 year round. so what 
if oil grade effects my spool time, i wouldn't want to change oil grades. cause wouldn't that mess with my tune?

if oil grade effects my spool time, i wouldn't want to change oil grades. cause wouldn't that mess with my tune?
my vw turbo friends run 20w-50 all year long, i think its recommended by vw.
its a lil thick imo, but then again i run 10w-40 with maybe 1/2 qt of lucas oil stabilizer as well.
ideally id like to run a 15w-50, but have some trouble finding it around here
its a lil thick imo, but then again i run 10w-40 with maybe 1/2 qt of lucas oil stabilizer as well.
ideally id like to run a 15w-50, but have some trouble finding it around here
Pressure and flow are very different things. a thick oil will give u high pressure, but flows alot less.
Id run whatever your engine builder recommends. Honda recommends 5w30 in the user manual, so if u run honda clearences, thats what they recommend. If ur oil is overheating, get a cooler. Dont mess around with bandaids.
Id run whatever your engine builder recommends. Honda recommends 5w30 in the user manual, so if u run honda clearences, thats what they recommend. If ur oil is overheating, get a cooler. Dont mess around with bandaids.
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From: Altamonte Springs/Orlando, Florida, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my vw turbo friends run 20w-50 all year long, i think its recommended by vw.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get the ***** outta here. 5w40 is what it says on the oil cap of my brothers R32 golf.
That lucas oil stabilizer IS BULLSHIT. Proof. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...s.htm
There's alot of crap being posted in here.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get the ***** outta here. 5w40 is what it says on the oil cap of my brothers R32 golf.
That lucas oil stabilizer IS BULLSHIT. Proof. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...s.htm
There's alot of crap being posted in here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weq »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pressure and flow are very different things. a thick oil will give u high pressure, but flows alot less.
Id run whatever your engine builder recommends. Honda recommends 5w30 in the user manual, so if u run honda clearences, thats what they recommend. If ur oil is overheating, get a cooler. Dont mess around with bandaids.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, stock honda bearings I would only run 10w-30 in the summer. I have ACLs and they are a little looser so I run 20w-50 because of the extra clearance. Keep in mind though Honda doesn't recommend a turbo so there oil specs might not apply here.
Modified by nonvtecD at 9:01 PM 7/5/2006
Id run whatever your engine builder recommends. Honda recommends 5w30 in the user manual, so if u run honda clearences, thats what they recommend. If ur oil is overheating, get a cooler. Dont mess around with bandaids.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, stock honda bearings I would only run 10w-30 in the summer. I have ACLs and they are a little looser so I run 20w-50 because of the extra clearance. Keep in mind though Honda doesn't recommend a turbo so there oil specs might not apply here.
Modified by nonvtecD at 9:01 PM 7/5/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get the ***** outta here. 5w40 is what it says on the oil cap of my brothers R32 golf.
That lucas oil stabilizer IS BULLSHIT. Proof. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...s.htm
There's alot of crap being posted in here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry for being a complete useless ********. ill not post again
Get the ***** outta here. 5w40 is what it says on the oil cap of my brothers R32 golf.
That lucas oil stabilizer IS BULLSHIT. Proof. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...s.htm
There's alot of crap being posted in here.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry for being a complete useless ********. ill not post again
AS for turbo oil, u want someting that is highly syntheic and will not break down and coak up the bearings.. thas another reason why i 5w30.
Also ACL's comein 3 different sizes. U shoudl measure up ur bearings properly next time. but hell, what would i know?
Also ACL's comein 3 different sizes. U shoudl measure up ur bearings properly next time. but hell, what would i know?



