To 2.0 or 2.2L Need Advice on Setup
Im Thinking of getting a new block setup and i was wanting some advice on weather or not to go with 2.0 or 2.2L.
my current block is b16 with 81mm bore and my turbo setup is the full race stage3gt kit with the gt3582R turbo and upgraded full race ProAM 20x11x3 intercooler.
Custom GSR cylinder head
Full race Intake Manifold
BBK 70mm Throttle body
my question is if it was up to you would you go with the 2.0L or 2.2L for my setup? the block is a DART with wiseco pistons eagle crankshaft and eagle rods for 2.2L
and the 2.0 is the same setup only OEM crankshaft.
im looking to make the most whp and most tq with my turbo setup what do you guys think?
my current block is b16 with 81mm bore and my turbo setup is the full race stage3gt kit with the gt3582R turbo and upgraded full race ProAM 20x11x3 intercooler.
Custom GSR cylinder head
Full race Intake Manifold
BBK 70mm Throttle body
my question is if it was up to you would you go with the 2.0L or 2.2L for my setup? the block is a DART with wiseco pistons eagle crankshaft and eagle rods for 2.2L
and the 2.0 is the same setup only OEM crankshaft.
im looking to make the most whp and most tq with my turbo setup what do you guys think?
you can make more than enough power with the OEM crank and block (with sleeves). There is no need to run a dart block. Its a waste of money.
the kit i was looking at is the following things for the following price:
$3950 for:
Dart block 84mm
Je pistons
OEM crankshaft (or eagle long stroke crankshaft)
Eagle rods
ACL main bearings
ACL rod bearings
Completely assembled blue printed and ready to go, IMO if the dart block is a waste or not it about equals itsself out if i had to get a block sleeve it and whatnot becuase i figure
1000.00 for a sleeved block
350.00 for block
550.00 for pistons
700.00 for rods
600.00 for engine parts ie: rod bearings,main bearings,water pump,oil pump,timing belt ect
750.00 for assembly and blue printing
---------------
3950.00
so it equals itsself out either way if i build it or have a shops kit build it
$3950 for:
Dart block 84mm
Je pistons
OEM crankshaft (or eagle long stroke crankshaft)
Eagle rods
ACL main bearings
ACL rod bearings
Completely assembled blue printed and ready to go, IMO if the dart block is a waste or not it about equals itsself out if i had to get a block sleeve it and whatnot becuase i figure
1000.00 for a sleeved block
350.00 for block
550.00 for pistons
700.00 for rods
600.00 for engine parts ie: rod bearings,main bearings,water pump,oil pump,timing belt ect
750.00 for assembly and blue printing
---------------
3950.00
so it equals itsself out either way if i build it or have a shops kit build it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the kit i was looking at is the following things for the following price:
$3950 for:
Dart block 84mm
Je pistons
OEM crankshaft (or eagle long stroke crankshaft)
Eagle rods
ACL main bearings
ACL rod bearings
Completely assembled blue printed and ready to go, IMO if the dart block is a waste or not it about equals itsself out if i had to get a block sleeve it and whatnot becuase i figure
1000.00 for a sleeved block
350.00 for block
550.00 for pistons
700.00 for rods
600.00 for engine parts ie: rod bearings,main bearings,water pump,oil pump,timing belt ect
750.00 for assembly and blue printing
---------------
3950.00
so it equals itsself out either way if i build it or have a shops kit build it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll add to the 'its a waste of money' statement. If you don't mind putting another 8 hours into the block to remove flashing & rogue particles, decking it, then checking all the clearances after all that - AND aren't planning on making 800+ whp - then its a waste of money.
BTW, your numbers seem terribly inflated. Eagle rods cost $300 for 'normal' gsr/ls/b16 rods, that could be the price for extra-long rods dart tall blocks need. $600 for parts would cover EVERYTHING that isn't part of the casting (and then some!). And $350 for a block... maybe for a GSR shortblock, but its not that hard to find one with piston damage for less than that. You can also find b18a/b longblocks for under $350 all day long.
Not only that, but I wasted 3 seconds on a search, and found a post where you get a full assembled sleeved built block for under $2900 shipped to your door. You'll also find GE sleeved blocks for ~$950 shipped, $1050 shipped with a crank.
Talk to rmcdaniels about big 2.0L+ blocks. I can't recall the specifics, but he said his 2.0 was actually a bit too big/heavy. I've heard others who tried tall deck blocks, and they end up not being able to rev as high as a slightly smaller/lighter motor. Just remember its your money. You can choose to spend it however you want, but just remember you asked for our opinions.
$3950 for:
Dart block 84mm
Je pistons
OEM crankshaft (or eagle long stroke crankshaft)
Eagle rods
ACL main bearings
ACL rod bearings
Completely assembled blue printed and ready to go, IMO if the dart block is a waste or not it about equals itsself out if i had to get a block sleeve it and whatnot becuase i figure
1000.00 for a sleeved block
350.00 for block
550.00 for pistons
700.00 for rods
600.00 for engine parts ie: rod bearings,main bearings,water pump,oil pump,timing belt ect
750.00 for assembly and blue printing
---------------
3950.00
so it equals itsself out either way if i build it or have a shops kit build it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll add to the 'its a waste of money' statement. If you don't mind putting another 8 hours into the block to remove flashing & rogue particles, decking it, then checking all the clearances after all that - AND aren't planning on making 800+ whp - then its a waste of money.
BTW, your numbers seem terribly inflated. Eagle rods cost $300 for 'normal' gsr/ls/b16 rods, that could be the price for extra-long rods dart tall blocks need. $600 for parts would cover EVERYTHING that isn't part of the casting (and then some!). And $350 for a block... maybe for a GSR shortblock, but its not that hard to find one with piston damage for less than that. You can also find b18a/b longblocks for under $350 all day long.
Not only that, but I wasted 3 seconds on a search, and found a post where you get a full assembled sleeved built block for under $2900 shipped to your door. You'll also find GE sleeved blocks for ~$950 shipped, $1050 shipped with a crank.
Talk to rmcdaniels about big 2.0L+ blocks. I can't recall the specifics, but he said his 2.0 was actually a bit too big/heavy. I've heard others who tried tall deck blocks, and they end up not being able to rev as high as a slightly smaller/lighter motor. Just remember its your money. You can choose to spend it however you want, but just remember you asked for our opinions.
actually my prices were as if i was going to buy rods and pistons and whatnot, eagle wouldnt be my first choice as pauter,manley,crower ect would be my choice thats why you see a price difference
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The Dart block is a waste IMO... big price tag and still only just the eagle rods... gotta shell out more money for a better rod...
I went With GE, and the money I saved from a dart block, I bought Pauter rods instead.. and still had enough money to get the block assembled and everything balanced..
I went With GE, and the money I saved from a dart block, I bought Pauter rods instead.. and still had enough money to get the block assembled and everything balanced..
well thats the thing do you guys really think its worth upgrading to a larger displacement when my block i have now is
sleeved with ductile iron sleeves 81mm bore
JE forged pistons 8:1 (with gsr head bumps compression a tad more
CROWER connecting rods (not the cheapo ones these were like 750+)
acl bearings
je rings
would i really stand to gain anythnig with a built block or really not worth the extra agg shelling out more for a few points of displacement?
sleeved with ductile iron sleeves 81mm bore
JE forged pistons 8:1 (with gsr head bumps compression a tad more
CROWER connecting rods (not the cheapo ones these were like 750+)
acl bearings
je rings
would i really stand to gain anythnig with a built block or really not worth the extra agg shelling out more for a few points of displacement?
I would also go with a sleeved block.
I've heard some nasty things about Dart blocks, one of which was several people here on H-T talking about how dart blocks do not seal correctly with oem honda heads and constantly blow head gaskets.
Not to mention dart blocks aren't legal in any of the comp. circuits (if I remember correctly, correct me if I'm wrong somebody).
Just do a sleeved 84mm ls/vtec and build it right. If you really want more displacement go H series and do an H22 or H23.
I've heard some nasty things about Dart blocks, one of which was several people here on H-T talking about how dart blocks do not seal correctly with oem honda heads and constantly blow head gaskets.
Not to mention dart blocks aren't legal in any of the comp. circuits (if I remember correctly, correct me if I'm wrong somebody).
Just do a sleeved 84mm ls/vtec and build it right. If you really want more displacement go H series and do an H22 or H23.
eh i donno, you guys kinda put it into perspective and it doesnt seem really logical to go the extra mile fore a 2.0 block when its only gaining a few points of displacement, and my b16 block cost a pretty penny to build with actual quality parts not srp and eagle crap.....
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