just seeing what people think of the following brands for low impedance injectors over 1000cc. RC, Bosch, Precision, MSD. I have heard a few stories of RCs either sticking open or closed. Any stories or suggestions?

 

I've heard the same thing about the RC's. I had RC 550's and they worked well. Now I have Precision 1000's and so far so good also. You're going to get people saying each brand is the best for blah blah blah reasons. Personally I'd stick with Precision or RC.

 

yeap my rc 1200 was stuck open. but they warranty it and fixed it

 

rc injectors work good

 

I've been running my Precision 1000's for over two years. They've given me no problems whatsoever.

 

pretty much all the brand 1000cc is gonna be 95lb semen deka core or a rochestor delphi core.

Now the flow process is what is critical most of them are flowed with 1% of each other from the factory.

RC i had use a different core but they tend to run hot and stick open

 

so what happens when they stay open or close? does that blow your motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyler H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been running my Precision 1000's for over two years. They've given me no problems whatsoever.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto.

 

so what happens when they stay open or close? does that blow your motor?

 

If it's stuck closed... it doesn't spray the fuel. No fuel = byebye pistons.

That's why you really don't want to run an injector past 80% duty cycle because after this % the injector will start to get hot and you run at risk of the injector sticking open or shut.

If you run it past 80% on the dyno for a few pulls you should be ok... but on the street I don't recommend going past this %. I'm extra **** when it comes down to things like this though.

 

well i have had rc 750 sat's in my car for 2 years no issues. was going to go with some rc 1200's. was looking at precision but they go from 1000's right to 1600's. i think 1000's are border line, and the 1600's are overkill for my setup. i think. so i am goin to keep with the rc's for now.

 

Even if there is a warranty on the injector, if they stick closed on a run you are screwed. But it sounds like no one has had problems with precision. Thanks for the input.

 

had an RC 550 stick open before, not even near 90% duty cycle.

I forget where but I read in one of the forums here that RC's don't have very nice spray patterns.

 

I am looking for 600 whp. According to RC's formulas 600 bhp, 80% duty cycle, .65 brake specific fuel consumption, and 68psi fuel pressure you need 1024cc injectors. But that is at the crank, how much hp do you loose on average through the transmission? What hp have you made at the wheels with X size injector?

 

an injector stuck completly shut or completly open wont really do any damage...

a shut injector cant hurt anything because no fuel means no burn, which means you just have a piston being pushed up and down doing nuthing. the thing that hurt engines (detonation, preignition) require some fuel to happen, no fuel means nothing will happen.

an injector that stuck open can easily be found by checking your plugs.

i have used hundereds of rc injectors and never had a single problem, i have used a ton of precision injectors and never had a problem.

 

Ok... let's say the injector 'starts' to malfunction. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's going to spray a little bit of fuel before completely sticking shut. So in theory you are getting a tad bit of fuel in the combustion chamber thus leaning it out. Maybe this only happens for a brief amount of time... but you get the point, there will be some sort of fuel that will lead to combustion. That's why you enable your ignition cut first followed by your fuel cut 2nd. I know you know this... I'm just letting other people know in case they are curious.

Either way, RC injectors (in my opinion) are some of the nicer injectors out there. My 2nd choice injector are the Precisions. We are in the race industry... **** is bound to fail at some point in time. The best thing you can do is go with 'quality' brands to try to lessen your chances of **** happening.

 

ive got 1000cc precisions now (for sale, brand new never used) but im trying to bump up to 160lb (1680cc) injectors

 

ive used MSD, Precision, Accel, and RC. I had headaches with the MSD and precision injectors, RC have always worked well, and the Accel worked fine on a honda, awful on a nissan

im trying some new 1600s next weekend, fingers crossed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I had headaches with the MSD and precision injectors
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we have also, but not the rochesters, only the seimen deka's.
what types of problems were you having?

edit: never had a problem with the RC's

stay away from Venom or Python injectors, they are junk...

 

hey geoff what exactly problem you hving with the rochestor multec injectors is it flow characteristics the ball and seat design of them is far superior to th disc units that most places are selling.

the SD or bosch work pretty well

 

is it normal to have a lot of bogging and hesitation running 1000cc and bigger injectors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sfwd dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it normal to have a lot of bogging and hesitation running 1000cc and bigger injectors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's a tuning issue.

 

thats at partial throttle, full throttle is perfect

 

its still a tuning issue whether part or full throttle. There should be no bogging or hesitation at all if it is properly tuned.

 

so you guys are saying 1600cc should run and drive like stock injectors?