dusterbd13

ok, im stumped.
the car is an 89 crx si
d15bs, z6 head, y8manifold
boomslang obd1 conversion harness
bosch 4 wire 02
either p28 or p08 ecu. i have both availible


Alright. Heres whats going down.

The car has never run well in all the 50 some odd miles ive driven it. Have only managed 30 of it with the boomslag harness, 2 on the p08 ecu

We've had a bunch of check engine lights. Water temp sensor (good replacement, ohmed out within spec according to both 89,91 crx factory service manual, and the 92-95 civic manual)
Then TPS sensor. Replaced it with a blox piece, set to .046 at idle, and 4.38 at WOT
02 sensor codes. On sensor number 5 from the parts store. Tests good according to the 92-95 civic manual.
MAP sensor. Tested good according to all three factory service manuals, but i replaced it with another one that also tested good.


Here's whats going on now. The damn thing quit running completely. It has completely flooded itself out. The only code currently involved is an o2 snsor code. I have tried wiring it every which way, but can never get the light to go off. We have checked continuity and resistance of all wires between the sensors and the plugs into the ECU on the boomslang harness. All wires go to the correct pins acording to the manuals, and has been confirmed with a volt-ohm meter. We have tried the two different ecu's. We have cleaned, rechecked,etc all connections. We have changed the fuel filter. We have run all the diagnostics we can according to the factory service manual. Every sensor checks good. It will crank at wide open throttle, but floods itself out in short order. What we did find was that the screw had come out of the rotor, causing the timing to go wonky. That was fixed, but we are still having problems. i am at the end of the factory flow charts, the end of all my wild guesses, and the end of my rope. i don't have money to throw at this thing in wild guesses with parts. i really just don't have a clue. i even had a tech from the local honda dealer come and recheck me. no dice. we've even flexed and jiggled all the wires and connections looking for internally intermittantly broken wires. Havent found a thing.

To sum it up, the thing doesn't run anymore, and all the diagnostics that the manual has has come up fine. No problems other than the 02 code, which shouldn't make it puddle gas in the cylender like it is doing.
Running extremely rich.
Will only run briefly at wide open throttle, never revving past 2000 rpm, and then kills itself off.

So, what the hell do i do now??

michael

MrDomino

Can you please go back and edit for grammar? Capitalize and add in apostrophes, etc.

Things like this don't make much sense: "tech from the local honda dealer come and recheck me. no dice. weve even flezed and jiggled"

People will be much more willing to help if it's easy to read your post.

95Sol99civic

What about the fuel regulator?

dusterbd13

has not been checked. ill check the service manual and see hat ithas to say about checking it, and do so.
what else?
michael

MrDomino

It will crank at wide open throttle, but floods itself out in short order.

Definitely sounds like a fuel system issue. I'd also second the FPR but am not sure what else to look for.

Is it actually firing right? It might be something with the ignition system. Plugs, wires, rotor/distributor, etc.

dusterbd13

ive checked all the ignition components with my volt ohm meter. all check out good. i am putting new plugs in due to mine being fouled.

what about a resistor box? could that be going bad causing the injrctors to hang open?
Michael

TurboLSVtecTeg

If everything checks out electrically. I would start looking at mechanical things like cam timing, valvelash, vacuum leak. Also I would make sure the distributor is wired in correctly. Most of the time the car will need too run for some time before the ecu will throw a Distributor code. Which can make it a PITA to diagnose.

dusterbd13

would the distributor being wired incorrectly cause it to run and then quit? when it was running, it was not throwing any distributor codes, so i assumed ater double checking that all the continuity testes that the wiring was right. does anyone have a blow up of the inside of the dist to say what wires go where? like the cyp, tdc, etc pos and neg wires? ill double check it again against that diagram instead of the wiring diagramthat boomslang sent me.

also, ive checked cam timing, which is correct, as well as set the valves before i put the motor in.

so....

Michael

95Sol99civic

Have you checked the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Do that first

dusterbd13

checked it tonight. it holds vacuum. dont have a fuel pressure gauge to test what the pressure is. my gauge requires a schrader valve to work.

michael

iskate2

you need to get a fuel injector test light and see if injectors are hanging open. If they are, determine why before condemning the injectors themselves. You also need to put a timing light on it while you are cranking and see that it is firing on cyl 1 at the right time.