I just picked up a 99si and am thinking about doing a mild boost set up. I have used turbo edit before so know a little about tunning but how the heck do you tune TWO sets of MAPs for boost...

Im just confused on how you compensate for vtec and turbo spool. I would imagine they almost come on at the same time to a point.

I just dont know how much harder it is to do than a NA ls motor.

thanks -still a noob Rob,

 

Well, you do build two maps for boost. You have a high-cam map and a low-cam map. Each has an axis with rpm and manifold pressure. As long as you have both maps built correctly, you will be fine no matter which cam profile you are on.

I usually tune the low cam map first, by either disabling vtec or setting the cross-over really high. Once it is complete, I tune the high map by setting the vtec cross-over really low and tuning it.

You really should ditch Turboedit and get something like Neptune.

 

You really should ditch Turboedit and get something like Neptune.


^ it is gone and im still considering neptune

Im not shur if i want to boost it ive got 1600$ from my crx to blow. It will be really tight $ wise going boost but ill def. make more power. Its my DD so reliability is 1st so i guess ill get neptune now and keep savin till i can do it right.

Well of course i could sell my gsxr...... then dump 4k in it but its fun to have two toys.




Thanks for the feedback sounds easy enough. Im just afraid ill run into problems with neptune for a daily driver.

 

If you've got the money, just get a Hondata S300 setup. You can find them for around $500-550 used. Sell your ecu to make up for some of it.

 

There's plenty of people satisfied with NepTune on their DDs.

 

many of them technically should be considered race cars
________
MEDICAL CANNABIS SEEDS

 

Ya, some of them at least.

 

Im gettin it im gettin it lol...

I watched the you tube's of neptune and it looks very user friendly. < thats a plus for me! Also, HRtuning seems to be VERY knowledgeable and willing to help noobs. He has got to be making a killing with that kind of customer support!! Props

I like the whole tuning thing and love to test tune try again change crap all day but i cant stand gettin stuck. Like no connection to usb or got to try a diff port or serial cable not compatible or...wonder if im having a program issue or ....

Im convinced to get it i think the last thing im worried about is using wideband as my o2 to send input signal to ecu...

Im a little lost on how to set all that up seems kind of specific. Although the youtube video made it seem like a cake walk. Maybe it is i guess ill find out here soon enough. Cars got skunk to camber kit and found out ball joints are BLOWN like cotter pins hold it together. = so F'd up my knuckle =200$ less to spend on neptune. Few more kinks then im gettin it fo sho.

 

Not killin, but what better way to spend my time?

As far as the wideband, it's seriously as simple as connecting the wideband output wire to one of the ECU analog inputs (Locations labeled in the software) and setting it up like the video or help shows.

 

A modest turbo system with a good tune will not affect durability. As long as you stay well within the limits of your motor, you will be fine. Just stay conservative on the tune (both boost level and timing).

You do have to set it up correctly and it is a bit intimidating if you have not done it before, but its really not that complicated. The ECU (modified with the RTP board) plugs in just like a stock ECU. So, all you really have to do is figure out which pin inputs you want to use for which signals (this only applies to custom additions, all the stock stuff stays the same) and then wire it in. Use solder, not butt connectors - trust me on this; you need a clean signal.

The only thing you will probably have to wire for yours is the input signal for the wide-band O2 (you have several choices, depending on if you are going to run closed-loop or not) and possibly a PWM out to control you boost (if you decide to use this feature).

Best of luck with your project.

 

Sounds easy enough heres a few more questions you guys could probly shoot down.

-If im not mistaken neptune provides output to display CEL codes and erase. Converting to obd1 disables my DLC port so neptune is only way i can get codes reguardless?

-How exactly does tuning for closed loop work?

To my understanding your technically supposed to tune in open loop get it perfect then remove wideband (if you want) and put back in your stock 02 sensor. <--your ecu will then use the o2 as normal but adjustments to fuel trims will be from the new map created by neptune.



Please correct me if this is misleading or inaccurate. I guess im trying to find out why you would want to tune with an output to the ecu if at WOT you go into closed loop anyways. I know that may not be easy to answer if even possible.
I guess you can fine tune for midrange throttle/idle for closed loop???

 

I AGREE CLEAN signals needed for LC-1 to work properly. "ground" <- their forum is so funny like 50 billion people with problems and bad grounding is the answer on everyone i read inlcuding my conclusion to my own.

 

HRTuning will probably jump in a give you more detail, but here is a quickie overview:

With my OBD1 ECU, I can open a window and pull error codes or I can jump the service connector and count flash, as with a stock ECU.

Its really simple - you build your maps the same as you would if you were only running open-loop. Then, you enable closed-loop with a check box. You set a target voltage (based on the A/F ratio you want it to chase) then set the parameters. The parameters are the temperature, throttle position, load and rpm conditions that define where you want it to run open loop and where you want it to run closed loop. For example, you could set it to run closed-loop only at idle and open-loop everywhere else, if you wanted.

You could tune it with the wide-band and then run the closed-loop off the stock O2 sensor, no problem. In fact, you can run both O2 sensors at the same time. You can use another pin location (example: D14) to log the wide band input. The signal for closed-loop has to come in through the stock pin (D12). [edit: I think I have the pins backwards]


I'm not completely sure what you are asking here. I tune with the wide-band going through the ECU because it is so easy to log that way. You can drive the car and it will fill the actual A/F values for each cell of the map/table you hit while driving. Very convenient.

I tune the whole map for open-loop, then use closed-loop for cruising (light throttle/light load) and below. As soon as I get into the throttle, I am back into open-loop. Different people set different thresholds for the cross-over in and out of closed-loop. What is best depends a lot on how you drive the car and what you are trying to do with it. On the last car I tuned, I kept it in closed-loop through all of the load/rpm ranges it would see in normal highway driving, to optimize fuel economy. As soon as you go above that, the tune goes open-loop and the A/F ratios are optimized for power.

Hope this helps and best of luck with your project.

 

You answered that very well, Thank You.

D14 is the O2 input normally and you have 3 other inputs you can choose from. You can run closed loop with the stock O2 or with the wideband, your choice.

 

Got it! thanks


While were at it, could i put a toggle in to switch between two maps? Where i dont have to plug up my computer. It will be my daily so id like to be able to have one conservative/agressive.

Also, how would it be a bad idea to just run in open loop always? MPG difference?

 

Yes, NepTune was the first to introduce a second set of maps with map switching features. You can use a switch to toggle between the two sets.

If you tune it properly it's fine to run in open loop.

 

You guys know your $hit its like the email thing in import tuner.

-So the three other inputs can be anything 0-5v. So what sensor would i go out and buy if say i wanted to log another IAT or fuel psi?

-How safe is it to run closed loop only at idle year round with no wideband after i get it dialed in?

Im not shur if fuel trims even come into play at all in openloop. I would guess that would be a bad idea, but i guess you have to have the wideband reguardless......I guess ill just go with the lc-1 guage set up and leave it in then ill -know.

I guess thats kind of a draw back to neptune over freeware cant do your buddies car hes gotta buy in too. Good thing tho dont want everyone rollin hard. hehehe

Thanks for the input guys helped out alot