Engine Management and Tuning Crome, NepTune, Hondata, AEM, MOTEC

tuning and break in phase !

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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:06 PM
  #1  
tban21's Avatar
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From: SJ
Default tuning and break in phase !

Im going to try and make this short and brief because i know people dont like reading a whole bunch of nonsense...

RNR built (in progress)

b16 head
slight ported
resurfaced valve guide and hot tank'ed
blox type b cams
supertech dual valve spring and titanium retainers
itr oil/water pump
itr timing belt
itr manifold
itr tb
itr jdm 4-2-1 headers
unknown injectors i was told 310cc (unless someone knows how to identify injectors..help me out here)
aftermarket fuel regulator

b18 block bored out to 84.5mm
rehone and resurface
wiseco 11.5:1 pistons
eagle rods
ls crank
rs sleeve
magnetic drain bolt

I dont know if i left out any significant matter but this is a rebuild with all fresh oem parts and i was tuned chrome.

With this setup what is recommended to be tuned on? Does it even matter? I really lack knowledge tuning so hoping someone can help me out.....

I been reading around about breaking in my motor (earl) and this is the sense i got of how to do it...

non-synthetic oil
start up motor
idle until motor is completely warmed up
check for any leak
drive 20 miles
while driving accelerate to moderately 4-5000rpm and slow down in gear allowing the rings to expand and seep in
do an oil change with non-synthetic oil
tune
drive abusively (hitting vtec and redline)
oil change
regular oil change after every 3000 miles

^^
when do i switch over to synthetic oil?
is it safe to drive to a tuning shop? (30 miles away from my house)
before i drive the 20 miles should i do the oil change to get all the metal shard?
how long do i wait after tuning and abusing my motor for another oil change?

Any suggestion or help of any sort is greatly apperciated! Thanks.

Last edited by tban21; Jan 20, 2010 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 09:09 PM
  #2  
em1effekt's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles
Default Re: tuning and break in phase !

im using a magnetic oil drain plug...
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 11:34 PM
  #3  
Shimakid12's Avatar
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From: Manistee, MI, United states
Default Re: tuning and break in phase !

From the looks of it, seems like you've got it right. Remember, RPM's put a lot of stress on a motor, and a fresh motor has more friction, so jumping right up to "beating" on the motor right away after a tune isn't ideal. You do want to break it in 'hard' to keep the vacuum up and let the rings seal but instead of going straight to the rev limiter why not start with a lower routine like 6500 with 65-70% throttle for a bit, then go a bit higher, then a bit higher, until the motor has some miles on it; all of this while varying engine speeds (not cruising to much) and allowing the car to slow down with the motor and not the brakes (you put this down already).

Also, it's advised that you change the oil right away, after the initial start up and warm up before driving it. A lot of people have different views on how to properly do this, but it seems that the consensus is that just because you want to break it in hard doesn't mean you have to beat it by jumping straight to full throttle pulls all the way to the rev limiter right away. Good luck.
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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tban21's Avatar
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From: SJ
Default Re: tuning and break in phase !

thanks. just finish the build. i was going to tune but there is a minor leak so im going to take care of that before i tune. I havent been beating on it and shift at nothing higher than 3000rpm. Plan on doing an oil change right after the tune.
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