Strange ECU/ Chip Problem. HELP!!
I have a JDM p30 chipped on Crome . Anyway, i got the car street tuned the other night by mark from Philly Dyno Works. The car runs great, but every few times I turn the car off, the car will not start again. It cranks and has spark and fuel. ECU light comes on like it should. I had him burn me an extra chip which worked when swapping it out. Today I went to the gas station and after turning it off it would not start again. I unplugged the ecu, pulled the chip out, waited a few mins then put it back in. It then started right up. Think this is the sign of a bad ecu? Everything works fine when running. It had the same problem when initially burning the chip as well and we had to burn 3 to get it to start up. I do not have the ecu bolted to the firewall and it is sitting on the passenger floor. Could this lack of ground cause it? Please let me know your thoughts since I can't seem to figure this one out. Thanks in advance!
I am thinking it might be the main relay now that I think about it. I was getting a code 16 for a little while, which people say is related to the main relay as well.
Ok, so today the car started up fine. Drove it around the block a bit and then pulled back in the driveway. I turned the car off and then went to start it again. It started right up , but took a few more seconds than usual. I then turned it off for a second time and then tried to start it again. NO START!. It just cranked and cranked like it didnt want to start at all. I am getting fuel pressure and i can hear the relay click, even though the click is not as strong as the first two. I am now thinking it may be the ignitor?? It is a brand new Distributor king unit, but I have heard mixed reviews. Any input would help me get this thing reliable so that I don't sell it!!!!!
Yea, I am guessing these are the symptoms for a bad ignitor? I used to have a Fiero with the exact symptoms and it was the ignitor. If anyone had a TD44U dizzy (obd1 GSR) let me know. Thanks
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OK, so I got a new OEM dizzy and main relay. Drove the car around and now it wont start after i shut it off!! Any other ideas? Fuel pump is priming and everything
I had a problem with needing to crank the car twice.
I would hold it cranking for a few sec stop then I would try again. It would start right up
I would hold it cranking for a few sec stop then I would try again. It would start right up
I am now thinking it might be the ECT sensor? I heard this could cause the same issue? At this point I am trying to sell the car because can't drive it when its hot.
Found out that if I press the gas to the floor it starts. I tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor but that did not make it start. I am starting to think the injectors might be leaking down and filling the cylinders with fuel and making it difficult to start when hot? I have a fuel pressure gauge that drop from 40psi to 0 in about 10 seconds. If i remember correctly, the stock b16 injectors never did that.
Found out that if I press the gas to the floor it starts. I tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor but that did not make it start. I am starting to think the injectors might be leaking down and filling the cylinders with fuel and making it difficult to start when hot? I have a fuel pressure gauge that drop from 40psi to 0 in about 10 seconds. If i remember correctly, the stock b16 injectors never did that.
OK.. I replaced the coolant temp sensor ( the 2 sensor one that is below the dizzy). Still having the same problem. It seems like the hotter the engine, the less it sounds like it wants to start. The injectors are clicking and I have spark. I am now thinking it might be something with the tune. Maybe the injectors aren't providing enough fuel when it is hot. I tried unplugging the IAT sensor and that did not help either. Any ideas if this could be tune related? I have 1000cc injectors that are bumped really low since this car is only about 300hp and we had to mess with the injector setting in crome to get it to idle smooth. HELP if you have any ideas at all that i have not tried.
Do you have access to the actual Crome .bin file/ROM file?
It could very well be something in the IAT or ECT idle fuel compensation settings if this only happens when it's hot.
It could very well be something in the IAT or ECT idle fuel compensation settings if this only happens when it's hot.
Found out that if I press the gas to the floor it starts. I tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor but that did not make it start. I am starting to think the injectors might be leaking down and filling the cylinders with fuel and making it difficult to start when hot? I have a fuel pressure gauge that drop from 40psi to 0 in about 10 seconds. If i remember correctly, the stock b16 injectors never did that.
However, isn't there a setting that when holding your foot to the floor (+70% TPS) while cranking, the ECU will cut power to the fuel pump? That might explain 40-0psi drop with TPS held at WOT. Not 100% on that I just remember reading that somewhere before, may not be for Honda ECUs though.
It seems like it might just be the design of the FPR to drop off like that? I still doubt its the FPR, because the car runs great till you turn it off. I also primed the pump 10 time before trying to cold start to see if the injectors were leaking down, but it started right up instantly. I also do not smell excess fuel in the cylinders when trying to hot start.
I had one thing that concerned me when doing the ignition timing. I let the car warm up and had the service connetor connected with a paperclip. The idle was a little bouncy and i could see the timing was changing with the engine speed. Is this normal? I thought the service connector kept the ECU from adjusting the timing?
IIRC that is one of the Crome ignition issues that everyone has issues with. It does not have an ignition sync function.
Here is a post I found related to Crome & ignition synchronizing.
Here is a post I found related to Crome & ignition synchronizing.
some tuning programs have a timing sync setting to set the timing. Crome does not.
follow the factory service manual's method to set the timing;
run the engine till the cooling fan turns on and back off.
turn off engine
jumper the service jumper
start car
attach timing light to #1 plug wire and power
set timing to desired timing mark (stock is 16* for most honda engines)
shut off car
remove jumper from service jumper
reset ECU (this is optional but recommended)
follow the factory service manual's method to set the timing;
run the engine till the cooling fan turns on and back off.
turn off engine
jumper the service jumper
start car
attach timing light to #1 plug wire and power
set timing to desired timing mark (stock is 16* for most honda engines)
shut off car
remove jumper from service jumper
reset ECU (this is optional but recommended)
Did a compression test today. All cylinders good except for #1. Only 90 psi. Maybe I need to adjust the valves... or some more serious damage is already done. Car does not smoke out the exhaust at all, so I am hoping it only needs an adjustment or new valve.... car does have a lopy idle which may have been from the low compression.


