Wassup guys, I just put in a new set of Pro2s in my B20v. My setup is:

JDM B20b block with
Stock rods with arp and shot peened
YCP itr pistons 84.5mm

GSR head stock port with BC dual springs( I know I should have port the head)
Supertech flat valves

My question is, how the the heck do i tune these cams. I mean I'm not new to tuning, I tune with Crome Gold. have fairly good long years of experince. BUT not with these monster cams. The problem I'm having is I can't get the car to stay idle. My freaken wideband is telling me its leaning as hell on idle 22.4 above. Yet, when I pull the spark plugs, its all black and foul, as if the car is running rich. Yes, I checked the wideband already its working properly. I know the timing on the idle needs to be up in the 20s from what I understand.
At the moment I'm just running the 290cc injectors to break in these cams.
I have degree the cams. Timing is perfect. NO CEL. I just can't seem to get these cams to idle, plus i don't know why its leaning so bad. Isn't it suppose to be RICH on idle with these cams with a stock map? I did everything I could already, I'm just lost right now. Any suggestion would really help me. Thanks. Tuners give me some pointers please.

Forgot to mention, I did set valve lash too. Pretty much only thing left i need to do is set the ignition timing and fuel map for the car to run. But it just wont stay idle. and AFR is showing lean. I'm lost.

 

A friend of mine has these cams also in b20 vtec b16 head, he had to raise his idle to 1500
Ill ask him more about these cams and ill get back to you

 

alrite thanks bro, thats pretty high idle tho.

 

it's not igniting the fuel so the O2 isn't reading correctly. lean the **** out of it, add more ignition, then add fuel when necessary. typically you won't get a clean idle below 1100 though.

 

Thanks bro...got it going...i needed to get my exhust hooked up so it could read the afr. Obviously, it wasn't reading the afr bc it was reading free air. car runs awsome with these cams.

 

My Pro2's idle perfect around 900 RPM at mid 14's but around 20* of timing. No need for high idles.

 

Bigger cams need more ign at idle, 18-20, they will like richer idles as well
13.5-14.0. should idle fine at 900.

 

they tend to run a little rougher at my elevation, but I suppose it's not impractical to achieve 900 normally.

 

Got mine to idle at 900 at 13.5 afr. could make it idle leaner, but wont be as smooth.

 

Big cams, will need richer, higher ign conditions.

 

how much vacuum are you pulling at idle? I'm not sure if it's the same, but I have pro3's idling at 850rpm with the AFR at 14.5:1 and timing at 16.5. very smooth.

p.s. 1500rpm def. too high for idle

 

My pro2 1.8l idled just fine at 900rpms

 

Did you degree them in properly. You don't just drop these cams in!

 

and check the piston to valve clearance you must

 

Piston to valve contact will be unlikely. It can be pita to check to. If the motor is assembled and installed. First thing you need to do is degree them in. Improperly degreed and v2v p2v issue happen. You get pretty familiar with how everything needs to be during the Degreeing process. These are degreed with vtec locked i'm sure. Fyi Skunk2's peak lift methood isn't the best way to degree but, it's the easyest I would use the opening/closing methood. Definitely start reading up if you just dropped these in. Because the motor is ready to go if you did!

 

Uh No. Degreeing has nothing to do with Valve contact or Piston contact.

Degreeing is simply a starting process as to where the camshaft Lobe centers will like to be.. according to the manufactures setup specs.

Knowing your actual clearances will give me more information then degreeing, i normally tell people who have ample clearance to degree camshafts then move em on the dyno or track, however you can't if you don't know your clearances. ALOT of the time, camshaft manufacture state a certain degree spec, and there's issues with v2v or p2v, in which the end user can not reach the recommended centerlines. This is why knowing clearances are way better, then degreeing camshafts.

 

Thanks for all your help guys. Yes i did degree them in properly and checked all my clearance. Something about degree is true that it only helps to make it where the cam is suppose to be, BUT it don't really ever do make the best power where the cam is degree in, so in terms i do believe its best to know the clearance and tune the cams to where the motor makes the best and most power safely considering the V2V and P2V. I'm still breaking in the motor, mainly clutch. Haven't really been driving it much. Hope to break at least 200+hp.