Unfortunately yes I do. I haven't cared to drive the same exact way for a full tank with each fuel but I do average 25 - 40% fuel economy loss depending on how I am driving it with E85 in the tank. Even with a factory FlexFuel vehicle you will lose fuel economy. It's due to the less thermal power per unit of ethanol (takes more ethanol to extract the same amount of power as gasoline on a 1:1 ratio comparison).

Bottom Line - If you can safely run gasoline, then do so. It is your best bet, but keep your fingers crossed that you don't get a bad batch of gas. Your best bet is to find a good gas station and stick with it exclusively. If you don't want to worry then go E85 (although there is the issue of getting E70 or E85 as well as anything in between).

 

my closest e85 station is about 30 miles away but its in the complete opposite direction of work, my friends houses, and my summertime fishing retreat. would be nice to run in my boost motor....

there is a cheapo gas station at the end of my street. i run that in my daily. there are additives but it keeps the plugs reasonable could be a lot worse. this car and my turbo motor i either use mobil 93 or sunoco ultra 93. both of those stations are about a half mile away.

 

so these arent right after a pull but right when i got home. bkr7e's with about 10 miles on them.


im going to assume the silvery smudge mark on the porcelain is aluminum.... guess thats my main question. ive seen that before over the years, why is it usually at the tip of the porcelain



just a few spots of carbon.


yea my glove ripped


so i almost feel like the 7s dont run the cylinders hot enough. through the plug hole the piston tops look a bit wet. when i had the 6s in there for like 40 miles it seemed to dry up.

 

The pictures are much too blurred to be of any use. You really need a magnifying glass (at worst) when reading plugs. A better alternative is an actual spark plug reading tool that has a built in light. While cheaper, the COMP Cams on sucks. It uses a small incandescent bulb that is too dim and the magnification isn't the best either. The MOROSO one is much better and uses an incandescent MiniMag flashlight that is much brighter. I personally swapped the magnification piece onto a LED MiniMag and it really lets you see the contrast because of the temperature of the light.

It sounds like you should run 6s from your description about the cylinders assuming timing is correct.

 

yeah my phone is 2 years old now and the camera has trouble focusing on close up stuff. from what i could see with a shitty magnifying glass there werent any specks that werent carbon that brushed right off. there was a grey smear mark which did not come off. oh well.

is it really abnormal to have some oil/fuel residue on the pistons if your plugs arent hot enough?

side note ive got the afr nailed smooth as a table 12.9-13:1 only took about 4 datalogged pulls because i moved the cam gear a bit.

second side note, my fat *** turned 34 today. everyone have a beer for my bday today!

 

Hopefully this little saltine cracker sized circuit will help you get to the bottom of any suspected knock, even if occasional under higher loads like I found before implementing this device....

 

Nice work. I need to board mine too.

 

im stoked to give this a try. it will make the knock sense even more effective and dialed in.

 

You've inspired me. I have a couple of small boards laying around collecting dust anyway.

 

Lol thanks Adam! But truth is you inspired me brother....I can send one to you if you like but I know you could whip one of these up no prob....but lemme know...

And yeah my first unit that was successful was just a bundle of telephone wire and duct tape....since blackeg and OneBadTurboCRV wanted one I had step it up a bit :-)

 

Im about to make this using the fiio6 from the write up.

I bought the smaller capacitors tho. The one you used seem to be for a much higher voltage.

Are they all the same?

Maybe you guys can answer this too. Are all the bosch sensors on amazon the same? I see them range from 10 bucks to 120 depending on make and mode of the car

 

Yeah theirs certainly room for improvement on the design I made however I was limited by what was available at Radio Shack which believe it or not isnt the same DIY hobbyist store that it used to be 20-30yrs ago.....had a hard time just getting the dumbasses working there to tell me if the capacitors they had available were polarized or not so I found that these worked unlike on my very first attempt in piecing one of these together...

 

Yeah RadioShack is sadly not what it was, but diy'ers are a dying breed too. Those two combined are why they just filed for chapter 11.

 

Bye

 

its not even friggin close. the one in the mall in my town is pretty much down to selling cell phones and other small electronics. the drawers they used to have of all those little parts are long gone...

i feel your sentiment about diy'ers are going away. now adays pretty much no one knows how to fix anything or build anything. along with that comes the fact that they dont know how anything works. working in a high school, its certainly a noticeable trend in american youth. they either google quick answers or just buy cheap **** from china and throw it away when it breaks in short order. they feel good tho, because they got it for cheap. vicious cycle.

 

That explains why the other two nearest stores that I had to get parts from recently where packing up all their stuff.....but how could they compete when they were trying to cater to the BestBuy crowd now a days

 

EXACTLY....and is why this place gets so many "Do I need a tune?", or "Help, Car runs like poop after installing ebay Mugen chip" threads...

 

idk if you guys read this thread yet but it has tons of good info in the op


EFI University Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning :: View topic - Tutorial: Knock Control Setup


Is there any free version of an audio program I can download? or the best one to pay for?

 

Do you research at all or just beg to be spoon fed? You have made a dozen posts about the same **** over and over...

 

Relax guy

 

hatchy i think thats right on the measurements. i basically took 2 bolts, cut the threads a bit shorter, butted the heads together and welded it making a double sided stud. it looks like **** but you cant see it its under the intake manifold.


and now moving on....im going to drive my car today! about 15 feet from the back yard into the garage got half a foot of snow coming.

 

If you read Muckman's build thread (IIRC) I thought he had resonate problems with the two bolts being welded together. The Toyota stud is a much better option and was about $4 or $5 for me.

blackeg - What, no AWD for that snow? Haha! That's the main reason I got into CRV's in the first place... she is a heavy pig though.

 

lol muckmans thread is longer than the largest book ive read since grad school. ill look to get a toyota stud there is a dealer about a mile from my house ive got some friends that are tech's there. if i notice a difference ill stop recommending a home made stud so others dont have issues as well.

i have snow tires on the car but im trying to keep the road salt off the chassis if possible. i would love a crv honestly. during the summer i always have golf clubs and fishing gear in my trunk you never know when u need them. the crv would give me more room. i just dont know if i can get enough mpg out of it. i commute at least 60 miles a day and some days i drive over 100 miles. the lsvtec this thread is about got me 32-34mpg last year. the b20z i have in my daily em1 gets 30 on summer gas and regular tires. its down to about 28 now especially since i let it warm up before driving. even that is killing me im at the pump a few times a week

 

I should have the m12 to m8 adapter done in a couple days ill post a pic. I can hook you guys up if you want to try it out

 

That link is awesome, don't know why he jumped your case.

I am not a degreed electrical engineer but have engineered plenty of electronic devices and components in my time. To be frank, I do not see how adding a .01 uF cap across the terminals of the piezo will do any more than create a crude band pass filter and may entirely attenuate the signal.