There must be something wrong in the wideband set up. It's working backward.

 

I'll look at it and see what I can find.

 

Make extras to sell.

 

Do you have to reverse slope for wideband in hondata? It's a check box in NepTune. Widebands do in fact work opposite from narrowband sensors.

 

I don't know, I'll check.

 

I don't see that option anywhere.

 

I have the s manager software on my computer at home. Send me your cal @ xxspadamxx@yahoo.com and I'll have a look at it when I get home from work, unless someone else answers your question before then.

 

Will do. Thanks!

 

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Are you sure this is set up correctly?..

 

My understanding of D12/Analog 1 was that table only needs to be set up if you use it as an analog input not associated with the wide band. I was using it b4 with a fuel pressure sensor but switched that to one of the new analog inputs in V2.

I will do further research to see if this needs to be set up (I assumed the voltage/lambda conversion table trumped analog 1 table)

I can certainly try using the 0.00v = 10.00 and 5.0v = 20.00 to see if that works.

 

Try clicking it as unused. It may override if you have something in there. I didn't even notice that at first. You might also try picking it as a PLX from the drop down, but that might not work for closed loop if you are still trying to use that.

You shouldn't need to manually enter the settings for the wideband, except for in you closed loop params.

 

I tried messing with the Analog 1, made no difference. I don't see where I can select it as unused.

 

I just got idling data logs, both open and closed. I think the cal I sent was off a bit in the low rpm tables. I have so many cal files lol (I use date in the name them so I know which is latest but I think I grabbed the wrong one)

 

Right here:

 

That is for the Analog inputs on the 300V2 board (numbered 0-7). The analog 1/2 inputs Flr Power is talking about are on the Honda board. It can get confusing.

To answer Flr Power ? The C42 capacitor is there. It worked perfectly when I was using Analog 1 for fuel pressure.

 

Gotcha.I don't have access to a Hondata board right now or I'd try some things out for you. I'll let the experts help you out from here

 

I appreciate your efforts. You too Flr Power.

I'm going to have to get Hondata onto this I think.

 

Been awhile but need to post an update.

The car had been getting worse. Stumbling was getting very bad. It would run fine while it was warming up but then terribly rich once at operating temp. Turns out it was something with the EVAP system. The purge valve would start dumping vapor into the manifold at all times once it was warm. I stumbled onto this by accident but since I unhooked the purge valve (3 weeks ago) I have not had any issues in open loop. I had to physically unhook it even just disconnecting the plug would not fix it.

I can only guess one of the valves in the purge system was sticking open and the warmer weather was increasing the fuel vapors. It also makes sense why it would be especially bad after I went into boost. Pressure was being added into the tank once I went back to "normal driving" the pressure would bleed off into the manifold (including more fuel vapor).

I had left the purge **** on as it was working properly but now I will be removing it.

The car still runs very rich in closed loop problem. In open loop it will idle at 14.7-15.0. AFR but when I switch to closed loop AFR drops under 12. Anyone ever have something like this happen?

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

Very interesting thread.....Ive had the same exact issue after got tuned with s300.

 

OBDII? Still have Purge?

 

That's not something wrong with the EVAP, that's how it works on OBD1.

The solenoid is normally open, but the ECU supplies a voltage below 155*F to keep it closed during warmup. After that the the flow of vapor into the manifold is metered via the two-way valve by a venturi effect at the throttle body.

OBD2 systems are quite different but basically work in the opposite manner. They are normally closed and then when temperature and other parameters are met the vapors are dumped directly to the plenum and metered by PWM at the solenoid.

I may have missed it, but what is your setup? If you mix and match the systems you run into problems like this really quick. If you're running into problems here, you've most likely plumbed something wrong or have mixed the wrong components.

 

Setup is in the sig.

Something changed with Hondata then. The car ran fine for years set up like that and then in the last 2 years or so it started stumbling. Stumbling wasn't bad at first but it has progressively gotten worse. I never had a problem with the terribly rich idle when warm before this year.

 

One thing I noticed in your logs is that the alternator will not charge below about 1000RPM but I don't think it is related to the problem you are seeing.

I think the problem is wideband related. It could be the voltage output from the WB is wrong or the way the s300 sees it. Somehow the WB closed loop system is working backwards so I would look into it...

 

I was thinking it has to be in the wiring. It was fine b4 I switched how I had the wideband wired when I was trying to chase down the stupid stumbling/rich condition.

I can easily rule out the alternator issue. I can set idle above 1000 and see what happens. I did notice my voltage was dropping below 1k. Could that be a sign the alternator is going bad? Ive never really known an alternator to just start going bad. For me it seems like they are either good or they aren't.

Thanks again.

 

Been busy and haven't had a chance to work on this until recently. I have tried rewiring to different inputs but it makes no difference. It still goes super rich once I switch to closed loop. I checked all the wiring and it looks good.

What has me baffled is the AFR values displayed on the controller and in Hondata are the same in both open and closed loop. The wideband controller is almost 10 years old. Could the controller be going bad?