I will be installing a wideband O2 setup on my 1993 Honda prelude si h23a1 engine. Will I be taking out completely the stock 02 sensor and using the stock wiring to connect to the ecu or will this wideband piggy back somehow the stock sensor? Thing that concerns me is the heater in the 02 stock sensor and I belive the wideband (aem uego) does not have a heater (or maybe im wrong and it will work fine. Any input on this install would be great. Also I have a aem fic that will be linked into this setup. I see the aem fic has a 0~5 volt input i will be using. Thanks everyone!

 

We use the narrow band output of the PLX M300 in my son's car for closed loop operation. You can replace the stock O2 sensor heater with a 1K ohm resistor to fool the ECU into thinking the stock heater is still there.

We put a connector near the ECU so we can use the WB signal when tuning and the NB signal when the tune is done. The WB display is always functional.

We put the resistor in an old O2 sensor connector so we would not have to hack up the heater circuit.

 

What watt registers do I use, so not to heat them up to hot? And what is the reason for wanting to switch back to the narrow band once the tune is done? Thanks for your input!

 

P=V*I and I=V/R so P=(V**2)/R.

Assuming a worst case voltage of 15V, V**2=225. P=225/1000=0.225W So you can get away with a 1/4W resistor, but I'd use a 1/2W just to be safe.

The ECU can adjust for changes in environmental conditions and/or the aging of engine components over time, and still keep the burn at stoich if you run it in closed loop. Closed loop only applies at idle and part throttle. At WOT, you are running open loop, so WB or NB feedback doesn't matter. Although as a driver, it's a good idea to check the WB gauge at WOT occasionally to ensure you are not going lean, especially with forced induction.

Closed loop operation needs an NB signal to work.

So I tune my cars forced into open loop with the wideband, and then when I am done tuning, I switch the signal from the WB output to the NB output and then re-enable closed loop so the ECU can do its job.

Other people will tell you its ok to run open loop all the time, but you really should check the tune occasionally to ensure all is well if you do that.

It's really up to you as to what you prefer.

 

The aem uego has a switch on the back and an output wire. I think it is p4 switch (nernst emulation) and run the white wire to your ecu. This will simulate 0-1 volt o2 sensor. Most tuning packages can disable the o2 heater as well.

 

Hi, everyone. I know it's kinda of an old tread but I have a question. I bought an AEM WB 30-4100 and installed it(jdm 96spec ITR) yesterday night, Everything was fine till I started the car and a cel came on. I then realised that since I replaced the stock o2 sensor with the AEM UEGO and the ecu would not read it's voltage. (sometimes I'm a F******* idiot). Now my question is:
Is there any way to leave the AEM o2 sensor since i got only 1 bung in my header and get to the ecu to read correctly as the stock does, but leaving the signal as 5v so I still would get the 14.6 on the gauge, or I have to do another hole to fix the UEGO in??
I got Hondata ver2 a fortnight ago, so i'm new to what I'm doing.
Any help please!!!!!!

 

The uego can be hacked into the wiring harness at the ecu or I recemend purchasing a odb- jumper harness that you can cut the o2 signal and use the uego to simulate a narrowband signal on the gauge output wire, while the gauge reads a wideband signal all of the time. There is a small hole on the back of the uego with a dial inside, to set it up correctly refer to your manual or download a manual ( I'm not sure off top of my head what one it is, I think there is 4or 5 different settings) Just Google aem pfd 30-4100, it should be the first one that pops up.

 

yes I tried that its P4 but the gauge started to give different figures then I use to read, ex: stoich is 14.6 at (P1) is different then (P4) where it comes different figures