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If I were to do a plug-in for my obd2b harness, I’d try to do the AP1 version.
I’d need to go back and look at my documentation to confirm, but as I remember the only thing you would have a pin conflict with would be the knock sensor. Otherwise the AP1 pin out is the same as b/d/h/f obd2b otherwise.
If you are keeping the distributor, you can configure the ecu firmware to use whatever trigger you want. You can lose the TDC channel (four tooth wheel), it’s unnecessary. You should be able to configure it to use a single coil as well. I’d email Link to confirm this is the case, rather than take my barely researched word for it.
The HC92X is pretty barebones and stripped of extras like aux digital and analog inputs and doesn’t do knock control. That may or may not be a problem for you. It’s a deal breaker for me.
lol yeah, I made my post after thinking I had gotten to the end of info, then kept digging deeper and realized there was still more info out there. And yeah noticed the things you mentioned about the 92X not having all the features of the 96X. Knock control being the biggest one of them all.
I figure if Im going to go and completely switch up ECUs might as well get the 96X for that feature alone. Since Im boosted and might possibly be street tuning that seems like a huge feature in my favor. At the very least I know I would get the 96X with a OBD2b to OBD2a conversion harness. Another consideration is that the 96X with a conversion harness is damn near the same cost as the S2000X.
Im going to pull up wiring diagrams and see if I can confirm what you mentioned about the S2000x version. And then also confirm by emailing link.
Now im in a delima, I have a neptune RTP board I want to install and tune, but if I can get knock control on these link ECU, Im tempted to just ditch neptune all together. I guess it all depends if I can get the tune on my current chip onto my RTP board (emailed st000pid to figure out if this is a possibility) then Ill prob just stick with that for now, but if im going to tune from scratch again, might just get the link ECU.
Ditch the 30 year old ecu board. Before it does what all electronic do..., fail. And with theyre age, seems like its more recent for alot of us lately.
SpAdam. I found one other pin that looks like it would need to be moved. The VSS. Other than that it looks like all the other relevant pins line up.
Also, I dont quite understand what you are saying about what to do if you re keeping the distributor. I dont understand all the sensors used for ignition timing and TDC and all that Jazz.
What I did here for the most part is compare the S2000 wiring harness pins to an OBD2B harness pins.
This was tedious. Feel free to critique my work here anyone.
Here is what I have come up with as far as what pins need to be moved if using an OBD2B harness with the S2000X plugin.
Move
C23 (VSS) to A9
C3 (Knock Sensor) to C22
Remove wires C22 and C31?
Im not sure about the CKF wires. It looks like the S2000 doesnt use this. And it looks the link 96X doesnt utilize these pins. I compared the CKF pins of a OBD2A harness to the 96X manual pinout. The manual has NC for these pins.
Here is a copy pasta of the notes I took while comparing pinouts. Alot of these pins are irrelevant, but figured Id keep it here just in case its useful.
Here's a page from the Excel book that I used for designing my engine loom (harness) a few years ago. I did a quick study to compare the Link/S2K pins to the OBD2B. It's kind of a mess since I never intended to distribute it, lol. Unfortunately, there's not a good way to post or PM files here, so just snips
You're correct, VSS needs to be moved. That's going to be a little more complicated since ECU-A is actually a connector on the main loom that connects to the ECU for most of the chassis functions, while the ECU-B & C are the engine loom and run through the firewall to the engine. I'm guessing this change on the S2000 is because the VSS is on the gearbox up under the tunnel, rather than in the bay under the throttle body on the Civic. The issue you will run into here is that, if you just move a pin from C to A, that you will no longer be able to unplug and remove your engine loom without depinning the wire there. I got creative on my design and ran some things through C131 where necessary to keep things pluggable.
The CKF on your EM1 B16 is not used by anything except for the OEM OBD2 ecu. It's there to aid misfire detection for emissions reasons. Similarly, the third sensor in your distributor (known as TDC) is only used by older Honda ecus. No aftermarket ecu is going to make use of it so you could just depin it at the ecu (C22 & C31 as you noted) and pin your knock sensor there.
As the discussion has been on adding COP, I’ve been doing a bit of research as it’s the next mod I think I’m going to complete outside adding a larger throttle body & intake manifold. I have come across AE Race that makes a clean harness for COP for those using an aftermarket standalone ECU. Of course you will need a tach booster as well, which AE can include for an additional cost. Just wanted to share this product as it makes it easy to do COP with the Link G4 Plug In ECU.
You're correct, VSS needs to be moved. That's going to be a little more complicated since ECU-A is actually a connector on the main loom that connects to the ECU for most of the chassis functions, while the ECU-B & C are the engine loom and run through the firewall to the engine. I'm guessing this change on the S2000 is because the VSS is on the gearbox up under the tunnel, rather than in the bay under the throttle body on the Civic. The issue you will run into here is that, if you just move a pin from C to A, that you will no longer be able to unplug and remove your engine loom without depinning the wire there. I got creative on my design and ran some things through C131 where necessary to keep things pluggable.
Ok, I did some reading on all the sensors used for timing, what you are saying makes sense to me now.
As far as the problem you mention with moving the VSS pin from C connector to A connector. Electrically it should work right?
The problem you mention is only a convenience matter if removing the engine harness? EDIT: After looking at my wiring harness, I now understand what you mean by running some things through C131. That is a good idea.
Also, I finally downloaded the software the the G4X and WOW. Im impressed.
Everything is just so much more polished compared to the Neptune Software.
I also love how well documented it is. The help files are sooooooooooooo much better at explaining what everything does.
As of right now, it is def my next ECU setup if I dont keep my Neptune RTP board.
I might just get the G4X and keep the Neptune setup for my Hatch which I've always wanted to put a very basic turbo setup on it, very low boost. Just something to give it a bit more umph. Since the things is sooooo slow.
Last edited by ImAcracker; Nov 14, 2023 at 08:12 AM.
Got the distribution block jumpers ran a couple weeks. Fast forward to today, got the wiring on the ecu side done aswell. Which wasnt very much to do after studying everything. Cut the wiring an inch below the hondatas cpr driver box. Obd1 big and small ecu pins with pigtails were ordered from HAmotorsports. Then proceed to solder and pin as the following.
Coil1-a22
Coil2-a18
Coil3-a14
Coil-a10BBG-a20(aux4 on the link ecus pin ID)
tach-a21(potentially)
wideband-d14(moved from d10 to d14 due link ecu requirement.
Pins altc and d10 are not connected on the ecu board. Aswell as a bunch of other functions link doesnt deem necessary. According to the link forums a tach booster may be needed. But i think that may be on an acutal obd1 chassis and distributor. Therefor after converting to the g4x ecu, im reading that the rach signal may not be there. However, i remember before the wireworx millspec harness, i had to wire the tach signal to the other icm pin. And that got me my tach signal. So after startup im going try the tach signal to the a21 pigtail. Which was blank now from the removal on the hondata CPR driver box.
Edit...Woke up in the middle of the nite thinking about my work. Then thought about that bbg signal wire. That was done years ago using a big pin, where a small pin should be used. So thats gona get redone today with some of the small pin pigtails i ordered from HAmotorsports
You can certainly use the icm output for the tacho signal, it’s the same pulse rate and you’re not using it for anything else since your running COP. This is what I did on my OBD1 ecu/OBD2B harness build, it works exactly as it should.
You can certainly use the icm output for the tacho signal, it’s the same pulse rate and you’re not using it for anything else since your running COP. This is what I did on my OBD1 ecu/OBD2B harness build, it works exactly as it should.
Kool, i had to do that when i rewired my oem harness. My concern was whatever reading i may or may not get from the g4x pin. Especially since lthe link forums states youll need a tach booster. Maybe thats on setups where the tach signal is from the distributor not the ecu! This makes me so happy. As now i just need to get my basemap squared away
Thanks for the reassurance
Edit...
my g4x, model hc92x, definitely needed to run a tach booster
Re: Link G4 ECU
