I've recently been doing some research on the Link G4 ECU however I have not come across much information in concerns to people actually using them for Honda applications, specifically for OBDI B Series applications. If anyone has any experience please chime in. I'm interested to know how you like the ECUs performance, as well as if COP setups can be utilized, etc. Also, if you upgraded from a setup such as Hondata to the Link G4, can you tell the Pros vs Cons that you've experienced. Thanks a million!

 

No direct experience, but this is 100% without question my next ecu when I finally get sick of dealing with Hondata/obd1 ecu limitations and/or I do another Civic street build.

Has actual usable datalogging and externally analyzable log files. That alone should be enough to make the sale lol.

Plug-in ecu that fits in a stock case and foregoes janky jumper harnesses is a HUGE plus. Theoretically, if you were trying to pull some **** (you shouldn’t), you could likely pass a smog check with one of these in an obd1 car.

COP, DBW, TC, actual knock control, proper flex fuel all on board (no extra piggyback boxes), switchable maps and map blending, on and on. You do lose a couple of features with the Obd1 version compared to the Obd2a version. There is no Obd2b version but the s2000 link could be used with a little creativity and COP.

Engine position sensors are configurable, so you can the stock distributor, AEM EPM, T1 hall kit, etc.

Does NOT have an onboard lambda (wideband) sensor controller but you can use their lambda-to-CAN box, which is almost better and definitely better than the typical 0-5V analog input from the typical AEM/PLX/Innovate, etc. Literally not possible to have a voltage offset.

Link are fairly well respected in the non-Honda tuning world. Their displays appear to be the same as AiM Sports. Not sure who is making who’s or if GEMS is making them for both.

 

Thanks a million for responding, much like you I'm looking at this option as you've mentioned I have seen them used in a variety of other vehicles with good success. Using Hondata, even though its proven, with our OBDI ECUs being almost 30 yrs old, I'd like to use something newer and with more capabilities. Its a plus the ECU will fit in the OEM housing as well.

 

No additional updates here? Planning on purchasing this ECU to manage my Stock B20 with BC cams & supporting mods soon. Hope to have the setup up and going by the end of July of this year. Would love some additional feedback if anyone is running the HC92x ECU specifically.

 

No updates, but I'm even more interested in your setup now since it's fairly similar to mine. What chassis is it going into?

 

Its a 94 EG/EJ Hatch. Stock B20B (JDM) bottom end, I'm going with the built head with cams as I had my timing belt snap and valve contact occurred in cylinders 2 and 3. I have an ECU that I could chip or place Hondata on but I figured by the time I pay for that additional and have my ECU tested and resistors and capacitors replaced it would be the same amount for the Link G4x ECU, and in what I've researched it seems to be a step up on Hondata and I will be able to use it when I complete my VTEC engine. It has a Comptech Icebox Intake, PLM Toda Replica Header, and T1R 2.5 SS Catback Exhaust. The transmission is a GSR with a Comp Clutch 1.5 stage clutch. I'm just looking to have a reliable setup.

 

Agreed.

It will be a lot more fun and run a lot better with the Link than it would on a chip/emulator based setup.

 

I know GEMS was making the early AEM ECUs and some later display units for AEM as well. Us rally guys love LINK and Haltech. Great options without spending Motech or GEMS money.

 

I've finally had the ECU and mods installed in my car. My tuner @chad really had high praises for the ECU. He has years of experience with Hondata. Before purchasing the G4X Plug In ECU, I discussed of course the reasons why I felt like it would be an upgrade/better option than Hondata, and he agreed to give it a go. Everything for the most part was pretty seamless, however we did get a bit hung up linking the Lambda to the ECU via the CANBUS as the instructions were a bit ambiguous. However, I was able to get assistance that led to the solution from the Link Forums as well as, from MA Motorsports (Devon). I now have to acquire a Windows based laptop, to pull logs as I'm an Apple user, and even though I could run Parallels, I have seen its best to just have a Windows based PC. Maybe @chad will chime in and talk more about what he likes vs not as I'm far from the person as from as technicalities to speak on it. I will say I feel like this is a strong option that gives the end user so many options for an affordable price. Now to the juicy stuff...Marci ending up making 154whp (@6700RPM) and I apologize, but I don't have the torque numbers but it's a bit over 120, almost 130 if I recall correctly. I'm more than happy with my results, with a different intake manifold and throttle body, more was on the table. We spun her to 7800RPM, although I will likely never spin her much past 6800RPM, when we did an overlay with a B16 with bolt ons, the B20 had it covered on HP and TQ until the 7200-8500RPM mark at which the B16 has VTEC and the RPM advantage.

Setup
JDM B20 (not P8R)
LS Intake Manifold and TB
Comptech Icebox Intake with Intake Arm
PLM Toda Replica Header
T1R 2.5 Exhaust (baffle in during dyno runs)
BC Stage 2 Cams (Springs, Retainers, and Valves included)
Cometic Head Gasket
Link G4X PlugIn ECU
Link CAN Lambda Wideband O2 Sensor

 

I think you'll find in life that Apple computers are fantastic for artists and creative people, but you really need a PC in your life for technical work.

Pretty solid numbers for a stock block B20 though, real nice!

 

Look for a used HP Elitebook. A G3, G5, or a G6 (A G4 is likely fine too but I'm not as familiar with that model). Try to get one with 16GB RAM, doesn't matter if it's an i5 or an i7. If you're just using it for tuning it won't matter much, 8GB of RAM would work too but doesn't cost much to raise the ceiling and the extra capacity is useful.

Overall very good laptops. Buying recycled/refurbished business series laptops is a good way to go.

Don't buy a Dell.

 

Lenovo user here....

Agreed. Get something with as much graphics capability as you are willing to spend on. When you start doing visual data analysis and replaying logs, generating graphs, etc, it gets o be really graphics intensive. HP EliteBook/zBook/etc are great and have good battery life (a must).Find one with the brightest screen you can if you expect to be working outside/trackside

I use an eighth gen zBook for work. It's great except that the screen is useless in the sun, so that sucks. I just bought a ThinkPad X13 for personal use and it's pretty great so far (Lenovo has a large clearance sale happening now, btw).

Last piece of computer advice - Generally, buy the most computer you are willing to spend on today. You can't future proof with laptops, but if you buy something that's marginal today it will be useless in a year or two.

 

No input really.....I did like learning a new platform....was more user intuitive than the rest. I have tuned on 3 brand new platforms in the last month and happy to say that all the customers are happy.

I think the LINK has the most potential out of what I have tuned. I will tuning a FUEL TECH here in a few months and I really think that will be the bee's knees.

 

i am looking into purchasing the g4 plug in, in the near future. Would you say its as user friendly as hondata? Any kinda of negative viewpoints or things you dont like about it? Also, would you mind telling us how extensive the tune/build was on those three platforms you tuned. Basic, mild, na/forced induction, or all out race setup.

 

I am thinking about going with the link ecu. I have a s300 right now, so my question is about compatibility. I have the hondata COP kit, afr gauge, boost gauge, and boost controller already wired and running in the stock harness. Can I switch to a link ecu without changing all of these since they are already wired into my harness?

 

You shouldn’t need any of that anymore.

the Link can drive the coils directly, can do boost control natively and most likely better than whatever controller you already have.

You should be able to use whatever lambda/afr you already have on an analog input, but a CAN sensor really is the way to go by far. Faster, more accurate, no more ground offset issues to worry about.

Link also sells a CAN based multigage. You can ditch your boost and afr gauges.

No more need for a bunch of tagalong piggyback modules.

 

Everything he said. Im actually in process of rewiring from hondata to link. I have a wireworx harness with integrated coil harness. But i assume itll be the same with the hondata CPR harness. Coils are already grounded. Positives are already wired together. Just need to redirect that power wire to a switched ignition source. NOT FROM THE BOARD! I ordered a small little distribution block where that switch source will come from. Bbg power can go on that switch power block aswell. Then just follow the coils signal wire pinout. Coils and bbg done.

If your wideband was setup the smart way, itll already be on the ECUs d-pin. (Cant directly remember ic its d10 or d14 what link has already setup for the o2 pinout

 

You can get power from the same wire that your distributor uses for coil positive. No need to get too fancy. Crimp all of the grounds together in an 8mm ring terminal and attach that to the head at one of your distributor bolts. Run the four coil trigger wires though the loom to the ecu and you’re done.

 

Everythings mostly already setup

 

Either way, there's you key-on power source.

 

Sorry wiring and electrical are way out of my wheel house. So as far as my gauges and boost controller. Since they are already wired into the stock ECU harness would they still run right just plugging them into the link ecu? I know using a the canbus adapter for the lambda is a better reading its just another 400 isn't in the budget right now.

 

You can re-use you wideband on an analog input of the link. You might as well sell your COP and boost controller along with your Hondata, they are no longer useful with the Link.

 

Just fitted the g4x obd2 ecu onto my eg. Happy so far.

 

Same. Everything was smooth. I still have some wiring to do. But opened up the program to get a feel for it. definitely alot of info provided.

 

So if I were to get a g4x plugin for my EM1, what would be the best option here?

Being an EM1 I have an OBD2b wiring harness.
I currently have an OBD1 ecu. So it seems like getting the HC92X is the better choice here since I already have the OBD2 to OBD1 adapter.
Or would it be better to get the HC96X and an OBD2b to OBD2a adapter?

I was looking at the ecu comparison chart and it seems like the "plug-inx" ecu's all share the same features.
https://linkecu.com/products/ecu-comparison-chart/

Is this correct? Or is there something different other than pinout between the HC92X and HC96X? Seems like the cost between these two is exactly the same.