HP & Tune Question
I have a 99 EM1 with B16A, I am about to install these upgrades and wanted to know how much HP i will be able to make.
Currently I have:
Password JDM Whale Dick Intake
DC Full Bolt on Exhaust
DC Tri Y Headers
Stage 2 Clutch
I will be adding:
Hondata S300
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
Skunk 2 Stage 1 Cams
Cam Gears
3 layer Head Gasket
What am I looking at as far as HP what kind of a tune should I have on it for a DD
Currently I have:
Password JDM Whale Dick Intake
DC Full Bolt on Exhaust
DC Tri Y Headers
Stage 2 Clutch
I will be adding:
Hondata S300
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
Skunk 2 Stage 1 Cams
Cam Gears
3 layer Head Gasket
What am I looking at as far as HP what kind of a tune should I have on it for a DD
It already has a 3 layer head gasket from the factory. This is like a 2004 post not a 2014... WHP will be around 160-170 if you are lucky. The tuner will decide what is doable with your setup and fuel.
NO need to clown, I'm just trying to get this thing figured out. I have done a lot of reading on the Handata S300, can anyone add any good advice on putting the base map on it after the installtion of all these parts?
Just load it with a factory base map and get it tuned on a dyno. People add bolt ons with factory ECUs all the time. It's safe to say the least. You just won't see any real gains. A decent cold air intake that feeds from outside the engine bay would be better than that whale crap.
If you are looking to get some decent power, I hear GSR cams (from guys who upgrade to aftermarket) are a good upgrade over the B16 cams. That and LSD if you don't have it.
If you are looking to get some decent power, I hear GSR cams (from guys who upgrade to aftermarket) are a good upgrade over the B16 cams. That and LSD if you don't have it.
No GSR camshafts aren't a good upgrade. If you want slightly better torque then go with them IF they are free but ITR/CTR are the only OEM cams worth upgrading to. The S2 Tuner 1's are basically a replica of them. For the parts the OP has listed you could have been turbo already. B16 all motor builds are not cost effective. B20-VTEC is your best bet and can make some decent power with the right bolt ons (some that you already have).
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AS FOR s300 more timing and fueling is required youll need a wideband
if its a dd then add about 5 degrees of timing at low ignition from 1200rpm to 3500rpm in column 3-7
if its a dd then add about 5 degrees of timing at low ignition from 1200rpm to 3500rpm in column 3-7
AS FOR s300 more timing and fueling is required youll need a wideband
if its a dd then add about 5 degrees of timing at low ignition from 1200rpm to 3500rpm in column 3-7 for fuel economy
if its a dd then add about 5 degrees of timing at low ignition from 1200rpm to 3500rpm in column 3-7 for fuel economy
you will know your HP when you get on a dyno. Guessing your power is impossible given the wide range of numbers any dyno calibration will yield between the various dynos.
Please dont just start adding timing. You need to know what you are doing and why before you start fiddling with timing.
there is no kind of tune. its just a tune.
Contact a local tuner and he will tell you what he wants to use for tuning and what you need.
http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/dealers
www.hondata.com/dealers
you can also look in the tuner directory located in the Forced Induction section sticky.
Please dont just start adding timing. You need to know what you are doing and why before you start fiddling with timing.
there is no kind of tune. its just a tune.
Contact a local tuner and he will tell you what he wants to use for tuning and what you need.
http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/dealers
www.hondata.com/dealers
you can also look in the tuner directory located in the Forced Induction section sticky.
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