help tuning B20VTEC wit Pro2s
recently put some Pro2s in my car. sat for a few mins to get it to idlea nd eventually i got it, how ever the cams idle pretty lumpy, but i guess i can live with that.
Now my problem comes if i hit the throttle, when it rpm drops it drops so far the car dies after a sec of stumbling around columns 5-7 ( on Hondata S300) at around 500 rpm.
i wonder if anyone can give me an idea of how i can get the car from dying once the throttle is touched and the rpms drop.
My setup is 11.7 CR B20, RLZ head, victor X mani, 70mm throttle body, tri-y header, 668cc siemens injectors.
or any one willing to share a map i can use as a starting point to get these cams goin ?
Really need a hand so all help would be appreciated.
Now my problem comes if i hit the throttle, when it rpm drops it drops so far the car dies after a sec of stumbling around columns 5-7 ( on Hondata S300) at around 500 rpm.
i wonder if anyone can give me an idea of how i can get the car from dying once the throttle is touched and the rpms drop.
My setup is 11.7 CR B20, RLZ head, victor X mani, 70mm throttle body, tri-y header, 668cc siemens injectors.
or any one willing to share a map i can use as a starting point to get these cams goin ?
Really need a hand so all help would be appreciated.
Before you proceed any further. Did you check your valve to valve and piston to valve clearances? Did you properly degree the cams in & check clearances?
Did you check your retainer clearances? Rocker arms?
I have tuned a couple of cars on pro2s. They are not extremely hard to get to idle if they are setup properly. Take the car to a professional tuner or buy an e-tune off a reputable vendor to start with.
Did you check your retainer clearances? Rocker arms?
I have tuned a couple of cars on pro2s. They are not extremely hard to get to idle if they are setup properly. Take the car to a professional tuner or buy an e-tune off a reputable vendor to start with.
You will need to do a lot of adjustments with fuel and ignition to get them to respond well. Make sure the cams are degreed or you will never get them right. I don't have any Smanager maps saved, but here is the low cam ignition and fuel maps from Crome from a 1.9 liter on Pro2's with 370cc rc injectors. You may be able to use this to help you out. DO NOT USE THESE EXACT VALUES as this is for this particular setup. You will notice the difference of the off idle ignition as well as how much fuel is pulled away to maintain idle. The Pro 2's have a lot of duration and affects the MAP readings causing the ECU to want to add fuel. You have to pull away fuel at idle quite a bit.
yeh , they are degreed and everything is set , however the damn things dont stay in once the accelerator is let go. anything else could be worng , cuz i am about to take them out
You can add 1-2 degrees timing around idle just to help get you going and later fine tune this. You will find to get responsiveness (sp?) off idle you will have to mess with your ignition timing from just off idle alot to get where you want.
Once you get it to idle you will notice it will be trying to idle in columns 3-5 instead of 1-2 like with most cams. This is the overlap causing the map sensor to read less vacuum and your ECU will try to add fuel and timing (as shown on your low cam maps in this area). You will have to adjust wherever you are idling on the maps down to near what you see in columns 1-2 (where most engines idle on the map).
Hope this makes sense...
so u are saying to take away 25% fuel once i put in the new values of 668 in the injector field?
i actually had to ad a bit to get it to even start from the get go.
i'll post a screen grab of the tables in a sec
i actually had to ad a bit to get it to even start from the get go.
i'll post a screen grab of the tables in a sec
If you had to add fuel to get it to idle, then your problem is somehow you are not adjusting your fuel compensation correctly for the injectors. It is dying off idle (when you step on the throttle) because it is leaning out.... waiting for screen shot..
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here ya go , and as you can see i actually had to ad quite a bit of fuel. and this was just to get the car to stay on period.
Had to scale the table some to get the car to be in safe AFRs.
Had to scale the table some to get the car to be in safe AFRs.
Add timing to compensate, you should be around 17-19 degrees ign timing @ idle for these cams, also, they like to run lean @ idle.
I've already told you call me and i'd help you..
If your using crome, i can let you have my map...this is my map - pro2's degreed in @ +1 intake and +3 exhaust. this should give you something to go on, this is a p30 base ign, with me reading plugs.
http://www.mediafire.com/?wok229nk12v9o5g
upload your s300 map somewhere, and i'll fix it for you.
I've already told you call me and i'd help you..
If your using crome, i can let you have my map...this is my map - pro2's degreed in @ +1 intake and +3 exhaust. this should give you something to go on, this is a p30 base ign, with me reading plugs.
http://www.mediafire.com/?wok229nk12v9o5g
upload your s300 map somewhere, and i'll fix it for you.
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civicb16eg
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jul 18, 2007 06:15 PM




