H22a tuning help please!
I recently had my car street tuned at a local shop who deal with a quite a bit of honda tuning, but mostly b16's and b18's, not so many h22's. He is tuning on my s100.
This is my set-up:
1992 Prelude with JDM H22a
Euro R manifold
68mm BDL TB
Explicit speed Header
Full 3" Exhaust, no cat
CAI
Stock Head and Bottom End
Before tuning, at the track I was running consistant 14.2's and 14.3's at 98mph. After tuning, I'm only trapping at 94ish mph and running 14.6's. As soon as my stock ecu is swapped back in, back to the quicker times.
The car seems to drive well daily with the tune, but doesnt make as much power up top it seems.
My tuner says he tunes N/A for 12.9-13.3 AFR, but sees no difference on the dyno usually with running a 12.9 AFR, so to be safe aims for that. This seems a little rich to me, but from what I have researched most guys are aiming for 13.1-13.5. Opinions of that?
Where I think he is screwing things up is in the timing, but correct me if I am wrong. They have a reputation for undertuning cars to be safe, but I didnt pay to be slower! Thats too safe.
I have read that scaling the P30 map from 1.6 to 2.2 is a good place to start for a h22 with the Euro R, so is that just scaling the fuel up or both fuel and timing? Can anyone explain this better too me? Is there a better map to start with and approx what is safe to add for timing to the p30 map if thats the best place to start?
Does anyone have access to stock JDM H22a maps, so that I can compare to what the cars tuned for now?
Thanks in advance for ANY help you may be able to give.
This is my set-up:
1992 Prelude with JDM H22a
Euro R manifold
68mm BDL TB
Explicit speed Header
Full 3" Exhaust, no cat
CAI
Stock Head and Bottom End
Before tuning, at the track I was running consistant 14.2's and 14.3's at 98mph. After tuning, I'm only trapping at 94ish mph and running 14.6's. As soon as my stock ecu is swapped back in, back to the quicker times.
The car seems to drive well daily with the tune, but doesnt make as much power up top it seems.
My tuner says he tunes N/A for 12.9-13.3 AFR, but sees no difference on the dyno usually with running a 12.9 AFR, so to be safe aims for that. This seems a little rich to me, but from what I have researched most guys are aiming for 13.1-13.5. Opinions of that?
Where I think he is screwing things up is in the timing, but correct me if I am wrong. They have a reputation for undertuning cars to be safe, but I didnt pay to be slower! Thats too safe.
I have read that scaling the P30 map from 1.6 to 2.2 is a good place to start for a h22 with the Euro R, so is that just scaling the fuel up or both fuel and timing? Can anyone explain this better too me? Is there a better map to start with and approx what is safe to add for timing to the p30 map if thats the best place to start?
Does anyone have access to stock JDM H22a maps, so that I can compare to what the cars tuned for now?
Thanks in advance for ANY help you may be able to give.
It was street tuned for now, so there arent any dyno sheets. It may come down to having to hit the dyno, but I wasnt going to do that until I had my built head and cams installed. For now I just wanted to get it close by street tuning.
The fueling is semi important, but tuning the ignition is the most important aspect of the tuning process and it is where the power is made. i can bet you are running too little timing. Ask him the actual peak timing the engine is seeing. On stock H's, you should be in the 40-43* ACTUAL and 30-33* Map timing.
What engine management were you running before the street tune ?
p72 with s100 for tuning
98vtec, do you have an ignition map that may be close to what my set up should have so that I can show the tuner what experienced H tuners are running? Where do you normally start for a map when tuning for just bolt on motors?
I wish i could pull the map off myself and take a look, i guess its time to upgrade my engine management so i can tune myself and not have to keep going back for re-tunes when it should have been correct the first time!
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The base timing on H's are non adjustable on some engines. That is the reason for what "looks" to be unsafe timing in a table when in actual fact it is fine. This is a perfect reason to use a dyno.
The numbers dont mean anything, just what the graph reads.
The numbers dont mean anything, just what the graph reads.
its just the OBD2 h22's that are not adjustable. All the prior H's can be adjusted.
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