I have a mildly built ls vtec boosted in a 92 civic hatch and I'm throwing a code 7 for throttle position sensor.. My question is, will this cause my car to have trouble idling? and possibly throw the tune off? Any experienced input is greatly appreciated thanks.

 

yes and yes. first check the adjustment of the tps, it should be at 0.45volts at closed throttle, and should gradually increase with no breaks in voltage as you slowly open throttle. full throttle voltage is not specific, but should be in the 4.2-4.8 volt range. closed throttle is the one that needs to be set very specifically at 0.45v, and this is the one you adjust the tps to achieve.

if it does not operate as above, replace the tps and adjust as above.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/official-honda-tps-wiring-calibration-thread-2830131/

 

so I adjusted the sensor and the voltage did not change. it reads 2.5 volts at closed throttle no matter where I move it. and 7 volts wot. crazy part is my buddys identicle set up reads 3v at closed throttle and 4.5 volts wot and the car has no cel and runs its *** off. wtf is goin on here?

 

replaced the sensor with a good one and it read the exact same voltages. the wiring harness at the sensor and at the ecu looks fine. I have had 3 other motors in the car and never had a code 7 tps problem. I'm completely stumped.

 

that doesn't even make sense. the input voltage to the tps is only 5 volts, so it should never be capable of going higher than that.
check the voltage on the power wire, let us know what it reads.

 

now the sensor stays at 2.3 volts throughout the whole range of throttle. it sits at .4 volts if I take the black lead off of the actual battery ground and move it to the black cable that connects to the battery ground. the yellow wire is the same. sits at 2.3 volts, or .4 volts if the black lead is on the ground cable, not the actual battery.

 

swapped ecu and tunes nothing changes. still throws the tps code and idles rich nasty. HELP!!

 

UPDATE. fixed a butt end connector on the wiring harness at the sensor... now the sensor reads 5.0v at the yellow power wire, and .02v at the red reference and gradually climbs to 4v as you open the throttle. air fuel ratio at idle is 9.5:1 and under boost @7 psi about 16:1 afr. took it around the block just to see what the afr was looking like. still could be an ecu issue?

 

adjust it so it reads 0.5volts at closed throttle.

 

no matter where I move the sensor it will only read .02v and climbs up to 3.5v wot. i have tried different ecu's and tunes, 3 different sensors, and have gone through the wiring numerous times.. tonight I will try a different throttle body just for *****.. and that will be the last of my ideas.

 

you have the sensor installed wrong. check out the link posted above, specifically the part about the location of the tab on the sensor mating with the TB

 

Yup. it was in wrong. wow i feel extra special. car still runs like crap. 9.5:1 afr at idle and leans out to 16:1 afr under boost. still cant drive it.

 

lol, no worries, we all have those moments at some point or another haha.

now I'm wondering though what has changed since it was tuned? or, was it tuned with the tps not being set correctly?

once you get a tune, literally Anything you change that has any effect on running condition will usually throw off the tune.

also, you keep referencing a "tune". have you previously had the car tuned, in person, in your actual car, by a professional tuner? because that is the only thing that can be called a "tune".
a basemap, or anything provided to you via the internet is not a tune, it is a basemap.