I've searched the forums and followed the Haynes manual and here's where I'm at:

Just picked up a 2001 Accord 4cyl VTEC with the ultra low emissions package
P1382 CYP code and a P0325 knock sensor
Around 3k RPM it misfires and jumps around - under that it runs great

I checked the resistance on the plug to the distributer (3 and 4 port), its 880 ohms
There is no continuity to ground on either port
I did a continuity check of the whole wire to the plug at the PCM and got continuity there

What's next? The previous owner replaced the distributer so I know that's new
Is there a way to check the PCM without swapping it out? For my limited knowledge, all signs lead to the PCM

 

Bump.. Anyone in this forum have any ideas?
It doesn't seem to be having the issues at 3,000 RPMs anymore, but the light still comes on

 

Old but figured id reply. The Resistance should be the same for all three sensors in the dizzy, they are exactly the same sensor. If one is notably different it's probably bad. You have 3 Sensors CYP Cam, CKP Crank and TDC Top dead center. The TDC sensors really functions as a backup only .. If the cam or crank sensor goes down it can use the TDC as a backup to control injectors and coil outputs. Typical symptoms would be Rough idle, stumble on accel, misfiring at higher rpms, jumpy Tachometer. However more often then not when you have a problem here the common symptom is Car runs fine then basically hits a rev limiter around 3krpm and cel is on.

Iv seen a lot of problems with accords and other Fseries engines in this area. I'm not sure what year they ditched the Distributor Spark and this problem.
My theory is what can happen is the spark gets out in the Dizzy and can damage sensors and a ecu depending on it quickest path to ground it takes.

Measure atleast the cam and TDC sensor ohms If i remember correct I think its around 30Kohms each. The crank sensor having more teeth can interfere with your reading slightly. I don't really pay attention to the value much.
Just ohm all three sensors and if one is quite different it's bad. Just like an injector. But just like an Injector these VR sensors can show good cold but heat and load them up and they go out of wack sometimes.

So you can also use Volts A/C while running. Look for dips in the reading at steady rpm and temp. The meter is just averaging what it's seeing from the sensor.

The best thing you can do is Scope the 2 sensor wires right at the ecu and see what the signal looks like. You really should do all your Input Sensor testing at the ecu anyways because in doing so your testing
the integrity of the wiring at the same time. If signals look good here then more then likely the pcm is the problem. Iv had to replace 6 of these ecu's.... (Key will need reprogramming more likely if you replace the ecu)