I have a 99 honda accord, with the aem ems, t3 turbo setup with 550 cc injectors.
Ran fine before my clutch/flywheel job. has been sitting for about 2 weeks without battery attached, does the EMS go into a default mode or lose its settings after not being connected to a battery?
As soon as i crank the engine fires for a sec then dies. When i can get it to run it runs like crap. Pulled the plugs they are fouled, bought brand new set and fouled them to.

 

UPDATE: uploaded the base map again and no luck. plugs are fouled up runs rich and stays around 1200 rpms. I was told that changing the flywheel would make a difference, would it throw my tune off?

 

No, it doesn't lose the calibration when it's unplugged.

Changing the flywheel can cause you to go into load/rpm cells that you might not have encountered before, however, it shouldn't affect it to the extent that you're saying, and it shouldn't affect startup.

I would guess that you have something mechanically wrong with the engine. But if you have your own laptop, you can glean quite a bit of information from the EMS if you know what you're looking at.

 

I would suspect that you unplugged something and didnt plug it back in or plug it in the wrong location. Look at the map sensor and TPS.

 

i do have a laptop do you know what i should look for that would help u? Im sure eveyrthing is plugged up. I saved a log dont know if it will help. i did see the knock sensor was at .2 volts, my rpms are a contact 1200 rpms even after warmup. engine load is in red @ 30 + .

 

Help me? No. Help you. There's nothing I can do w/out the car in front of me, and I'm no professional anyway.

Look for anything strange. Look at TPS volts and sweep the throttle. Look at engine load. It should be atmospheric (like 90kPa) with the engine off and at idle it should around 30kPa.

Click on the Start Up and the Idle templates and go from there.

Knock don't worry unless it spikes above the average noise. But that's not what you're looking for.

RPMs do they change as they should when you hit the throttle? 1200 is pretty high for idle after it's warmed up, but that's not critical right now.

Engine load w/out units is a useless number. Don't worry that it's red. That's something you configure in the "dash".


Put the original injectors back in and see how it runs with the stock ECU. As long as you don't go into boost you should be fine.

 

Thanks alot man for this info ill look at it again.

I got one more ? for you though, my rpm and speedometer are both increasing when i press the gas down. checked the vss which was disconnected to do the tranny but its connected fine. What could i check for on the base map?

dont think this makes a difference but i have the front of the car in the air and one axle out to replace.