motoxxxman

yes they are supposed to be interference and theoretically impossible to leak. but we all know what happens when someone says something is impossible haha. I'll be checking just to make sure. what are your suggestions though for sealing them up IF any of them do leak?

I have two 5/8" vent hoses out the valve cover, ports in the VC are 1/2", and they run to a baffled catch can that is well ventilated. I still run a pcv valve, but it is open to atmosphere with a small breather filter on it. I'm using the stock vent location and stock pcv location for the vent hoses so they remain internally baffled as well.

motoxxxman

also, about what I said earlier about modifying the quench area, I posted this in the welding section but haven't gotten an answer yet: what alloy should I use for welding the head?

PyroProblem

I would guess some sealant/hondabond would suffice in sealing up a valveguide IF it were leaking.
No idea about welding the head.

TomCat39

ENDYN used an Epoxy of some sort for head work. Just not sure if it's used in the combustion chamber area.

Not sure if they would answer that question through email or a phone call or whatnot, but it's worth trying.

The Old One - Energy Dynamics

motoxxxman

ok cool thanks. I tested my guides with nail polish remover due to how thin it is hoping if anything could seep through that'd be it. no leaks! So I guess I just need to make sure I stay on top of replacing the valve seals whenever they leak.

also, I'm pretty sure I determined my pitting/hotspot issue: the damn head doesn't line up with the block! the chambers are offset 2mm towards the intake side! I found this out after some long inspection of my old cometic HG while looking for any heat in the gasket. the edge of the gasket on the intake side of the bore was folded up a little in all 4 cylinders. placed it on the block with dowels, lines up perfectly. Placed it on the head with dowels, it overhangs into the chambers about 2-2.5mm!! thinking maybe I had a bad head, I pulled out all 4 of my other heads (all of which are completely untouched, all original), same thing! 2-2.5mm overhang into the chambers! so it seems honda wasnt quite paying attention when they machined the heads and/or blocks. just for haha's I checked my other two blocks as well, and sure enough the gasket lines up flawlessly on them too.
and in case you didnt know, the motor tilts back at a 15 degree angle in my car.
So what I'm getting at, is I believe: 1) the gasket folding up a little acted as a hotspot, and 2) the "ledge" created by said misalignment allowed a small puddle of oil to collect due to the leaky valve seals. and upon heavy throttle the gasket heated up more, oil started to burn, and ignited the air/fuel mixture nearly consistently for at least a couple combustion cycles until the oil all burned off.

so my temporary cure, I shaved the head some more and it brought the edge in a little, and I'll be very slightly modifying the new gasket, and slapping it all back together.

and over the next few months I'll be doing some major custom work to one of my spare heads and rebuilding it, then swapping that on once it's done. largest mod I'll be doing; welding the head to fill in the quench area. This will give me not only the recommended quench, but it will also eliminate the alignment issue with the block and gasket

PyroProblem

Wow, aint that some crazy ****?!?
Good thing you caught that. I bet you're right in that little ledge in the chamber creating a hotspot. Hopefully no more melted motors from here on out!

motoxxxman

Yup. So hopefully my next thread in this section will be pictures of welding in and reshaping completely different quench areas

motoxxxman

This will be my project head. Already has brand new guides installed. Just need to:
Weld the quench areas
Ream the guides to spec
Cut the seats (3 angle)
Port match to my manifolds
Port and polish
Smooth, reshape, and cc the chambers
Reface a full set of valves
Lap the valves
Sandblast and paint

Nothin to it, LIKE NEW BUT BETTER!