chrisc543

I am having issue with build. Rods to the best of my knowledge are crower B93728B-1. The bearings are king cr 439xp. I don't get why they are offset like this. I checked all bearings in package and tang the same on all so not top and bottom. Any advice appreciated.

PyroProblem

Without checking those part numbers and going off memory, You might have vtec rod bearings on the non vtec rods. The vtec engine rod bearings are narrower than non vtec engines, if memory serves me correctly.

JRCivic1

PyroProblem is partially correct... OP, what you have in your photos above is the narrower rod bearings from the GSR/ITR which are VTEC engines, however, the B16A/B16B and B17A engines all use the same width (wider) rod bearing as the NON-VTEC engines in the "B" series family like the B18A/B18B and the B20B/Z. I am not sure about the part number and whether it is the wrong number or the correct number with mis-boxed bearings... I suggest you contact the supplier and double check the application and formulate a resolution.

PyroProblem

Thanks for the clarification JRCivic1.

chrisc543

I was thinking they were gsr rods. I found a few other threads with similar and they always had the rods replaced by manufacturer.

Here are some pictures of the piston torqued down and it is higher than deck which I am assuming it is going to hit head. Or can it be over a little bit? I was thinking of trying to call crower to identify rod somehow but there is not much on them. What do you guys think should I order a set of ls acl bearings and see if the same way. Wish I had somewhere that would let me test with some old bearings.

PyroProblem

It can be over a little bit if all the clearances are verified, but from the pics, I think they are sticking out way too much. That looks like its almost .100" out of the hole.
Is the wristpin location the same as stock (compression height)?
Could it be possible you have a 89mm crank and B18C length rods?
Has the block been decked excessively (doesnt appear to be from the little dots)?

chrisc543

I believe wrist pin is. It's arias off the shelf piston.

Called crower and they couldn't identify without measuring. I am going to drop off tomorrow at machine shop to have them measure them.

I bought the block already machined but doesn't appear to be excessively decked.

JRCivic1

The Crower part number that you referenced is the 5.394" LS/CRV connecting rod and NOT a GSR rod... so there is much more going on with your build than improper bearings. You need to provide more specifics about the parts you have used in this build so that we can help you assess this build. Measuring the connecting rods C-to-C would be helpful... there is a possibility that they are in fact longer than stock for a special application. Do you have the original packaging for the rods, pistons and crankshaft (if it is aftermarket) ??? Better pics of all of these parts would also be helpful.

chrisc543

I do not have original packaging as I bought used.

The crankshaft is a b18b. The pistons are Arias 3310202. Rods are in question. Bearings are King Bearing CR 439xp for rods. Block is b18c with oil squirter block offs from golden eagle.

I will have rods measured to try and figure out what they are.

chrisc543

Well dropped off at the machine shop for them to measure. But based on the quick BE thickness measurement they are not GSR rods.

So my only other thought is they are the stroker rods. Below is a quick chart from crower site. I see the 92mm & 95mm kits from crower comes with the 5.512 stroke rods. When I try to put into the Zeal calcuator with GSR head, Arias 3310212 pistons (-3cc, 1.180 comp height) with 92 or 95mm crank gives a ridiculously high compression ratio.

Part No Make Engine C-to-C B.E Bore B.E. Thick P.E. Bore (mm) P.E. Thick
B93728B-4 Acura B18A-B/B20B 5.394" 1.890" .935" .787" 20 .900"
B93729B-4 Acura B18C VTEC 5.433" 1.890" .858" .787" 20 .900"
B93722B-4 Honda B18/20 Stroker 5.512" 1.890" .935" .787" 20 .900"
B93723B-4 Honda B18/20 Stroker 5.564" 1.890" .935" .787" 20 .900"

So given the information above once I receive an accurate reading from machine shop on rod length, I will know better. Is there any way to run the long rod in a stock deck height or would it need a deck plate welding on? Trying to figure out which direction to go as machine shop said most likely if I press of pistons they will be garbage. So trying to see if there is any setup so I can accurately resell pistons rods to someone who can use them or try and get my block, crank figured out to run the bigger rod.

PyroProblem

You can run a deckplate, but thats alot of machining and fairly expensive compared to just running a long rod with a custom piston.
FYI- My stroker build uses a rod that is 5.531" long and a piston with a raised wristpin (.993 compression height). This lets everything fit inside a b18c block using a 92mm stroke crank.
Piston to deck height is almost zero. The piston top sits flush with the deck surface.

PyroProblem

Those pistons are full floating? Pressing the wristpin was required to install them on the rods?

chrisc543

Yes they were floating. I'm just really stuggling to figure out what they are. I will have to wait for machine shop. I also pm the member I bought them from here so hopefully he can give some more insight to the pistons.

Is there any room in a gsr head for it to be above deck a little?

flesh199

It will be not easy to install a gsr head with a piston that is over the deck like that.For the target of 0.035-0.040 piston to head clearance you will need to have like a 0.125inch head gasket thickness

PyroProblem

Probably not. Even a b16 head will probably be pretty tight. Everything will need measured to try and maintain your .035" or so piston to head clearance/quench clearance. PTV will also need to be checked and verified too...Best bet is to get the correct rods and/or pistons that everything was designed to fit together IMO.

chrisc543

Well got rods back from machine shop. In the end had them press on piston off so we could get accurate measurement.

Their numbers were 4.100 inside bore to inside bore. .413 for half of piston end bore and .945 on big end bore. To make it 5.458 center to center.

My measurement was 4.106 inside bore to inside bore. .4135 for half of piston end bore and .945 on big end bore. To make it 5.4645 center to center.

They believe the rods are custom due to not being in catalog.

So I guess my options now are custom pistons and use the rods or new rods and hopefully use the pistons if the others press off ok. Leaning toward the first as I would like to bump compression up a little more. Or sell everything seperate and buy new stuff. Fml..

chrisc543

Ok after looking at this a bit more it may actually be possible to use this setup with a thicker head gasket.

What do you guys think? It doesn't fix the bearing problems but I could order some ACL and try those.

PyroProblem

Looking at those numbers, it looks like you could use a gsr crankshaft and a custom piston with the wristpin raised .025". Then your PTH clearance should be back in line and you can use a stock or near stock thickness HG.

Having the longer rod is considered a good thing by many, including myself. Sounds like a build that would like rpms!

That would be a nice build in a 84 mm bore block too

chrisc543

Awe to dream lol. I am hoping to just run how it is with thicker head gasket. Shows clearance should be 30 thousandths.

chrisc543

Awe to dream lol. I am hoping to just run how it is with thicker head gasket. Shows clearance should be 30 thousandths.

turbociv910

umm that rod is blue. that needs to be replaced

JRCivic1

Bearing problems, piston and deck height problems, heating rods instead of properly pressing pins into the pistons... you have a host of issues that all add up to a broken engine. Crossing your fingers and hoping for the best is not a solution to your problems. I suggest you get proper known products and repair the build.

chrisc543

Yeah, I am probably going to get LS rods and reuse pistons and ditch these rods. The longer rods don't seem worth the hassle when I could go eagle or something similar that is off the shelf and the bearings and pistons and deck height would all work.

I do not believe heating the rod is uncommon. The machine shop I took it took did not seem to think so. They said they just use more focused heat where these were put into a kiln or oven or something similar to heat whole top of the rod.

the_unknown

Holy **** they heated up the rod to press the pin out.... Stay away from this shop do yourself a favor...

chrisc543

No I bought it heated. They pressed it out without heat.